A morning�'s adventure, and relocation (November 2nd ) �- The goal was to leave Wetnose before 8am. As one might expect, coffee was downed, sunglasses found, shoes and hats abound, and into the dinghy �- time 07:56. Mission accomplished! First stop, flat whites and a bite at the yachtie�'s café down the way. As Jim poured over the chart on his ipad (how modern!), we sipped our brews and looked out over the marina with that knowing look of many miles traveled. We saw John, the rallye leader, who asked why we missed the pot luck. When he heard, he played the smallest of violins and said with a gleam in his eye that we missed a grand party. With a new bergie in hand from Windflower, we jumped into the car and rounded the bend (look right, stay left) to the ferry terminal where we rolled across the bay to Russell.

Russell, better known as the �"gateway to hell�" is the home of the second oldest sport fishing club, the Swordfish Club. To the right of the front door is an even more important landmark, Russell Radio, home of the mysterious voices that make mariners feel safe for miles around. So, what were they curious about? Avalon and the Tuna Club (the oldest sport fishing club). Walking through Russell is like a stroll into history. The ficus tree adjoining the policeman�'s residence was 130 years old; the buildings are white-washed; the walking streets lined with flowers and moss-covered, shade-bearing trees are opposite the Marlborough Hotel that screams, �"come have a gin and tonic�". Birds don�'t bother to move when you walk up to them; garage doors open to the side �- like a roll-top desk; and I�'m thinking it must be early because the streets are so quiet I�'m encouraged to whisper as I walk. I was struck by the memorial to war veterans (WWI and II) and the canon that still looks out to sea, �"just in case.�"

We meandered both sides of the strand and I found myself thinking about how people must have walked up and down that path in white frocks and parasols. During the high season, I�'m sure this place rocks �- why else would the head of police be given a home in the middle of the block?!

Inside the Russell Museum, there�'s a 1:5 scale replica of Cook�'s Endeavor. Never mind that there�'s no anchor, and some of the lines don�'t go anywhere, it�'s still a great model. Who knew it drew greater depth than Wetnose?! With no opening ports and no fresh water showers, I don�'t think I�'d want to stay below decks for long, but the captain�'s cabin did look to have nice windows looking aft. We weren�'t allowed to take any photos, as the artifacts came from the community and �'folks don�'t want to see their family artifacts on the Internet,�' said the curator. The shark jaws and the greenstone weapons were quite startling in quality.

We wondered uphill to Flagstaff, where there is a flag pole�... that�'s been cut down 4 times. We�'re told all that nasty misunderstanding is far behind the town and the Maori, so it should be safe to visit now. The views of the bay are breathtaking! Just opposite is an amazing sundial with a map of the bay done in mosaic. I could almost pick out Wetnose in the distance!

Wait, what�'s that under my feet making a crunching sound. It�'s not just any shells used to make that driveway�... there are oysters in Russell! One MUST explore this further! Come on, Jim, take that right turn down the narrow path and let�'s see what we can find. Ah, the briny scent of oysters and the fine energy of men at work shucking. Can you say �"lunch?!�" Throw a few dozen on ice and let�'s catch the ferry. Through the down pour �- I didn�'t see the rain coming - and back onto the ferry we hustled, to return the car on time. Oops, had to run back through Paihia to find gas, then, back for a flat white or soda. I�'m loving the local brews �- sparkling lemon, lime and bitters; and some fruit that I can�'t remember. Thirst quenching and delicious!

Back on board, we realized that we couldn�'t shove off without some sustenance. With a delightful salad on the side (so we look like we�'re being healthy) we had the oysters and a Number One (local brew from Noumea). So having oysters requires some explanation. First we took out all the hot sauce options on board. Then Jim had to show Dave and Joel how �'it�'s really done.�' The meaty morsels were flavorful and yearned for the lime and lemon juice to perfectly accentuate their deliciousness. I knew that to keep the peace on board, the last should be left to the captain. Good thing, and just in time, as the last little oyster was trying to tear itself in two or is it four?

Now we�'re ready to lift anchor and meander off to Rangihoua Bay where we dropped anchor for the night. �'Quick,�' said Jim, splash the dinghy in the water for a little RECON. But wait, the BBQ needs to be taken apart and put back together. Joel? Of course, the magician is left to his whily ways and �'poof!�'

Leaving Joel to his magic (which should always be done behind a secret curtain), our fearless captain, Dave and I jumped into the dinghy and off we went to Te Pahi Islands. The first stop had a welcoming sign saying, �"private property, do not land.�" The lava outcroppings made for wonderful tidal pools, oysters clinging to the underside of each crevice, periwinkle snails slowly crawling from one pool to another. Away we go to island #2, and this has a hill �- and what must we do �- climb it of course! Up the grassy cliff�... but watch that last step on the backside of the tree as the first step down is a doozy!