From Vulcano we headed back to Milazzo again on mainland Sicily, only 20 miles, and the following day to, Porto di Nettuna marina in Messina, on the East coast and at the head of the Straits of Messina. It was an horrendous mooring experience. The wind and swell all seem to gather strength in this part of the Straits and the marina offers little protection. In addition the entrance is like the M25 with ferries heading in and out every other minute. The marina staff directed us to a pontoon with the wind blowing us off very strongly and seemed surprised they couldn't manhandle our 13 tons of boat on to the pontoon. Totally useless. Anyhow after a lot of crashing around we eventually came alongside but the birth was as expected not very comfortable. We will not be going back. The next day 26 August and into the last three weeks of our wonderful 15 month sabbatical we headed down the Straits of Messina to George's mooring buoys in the very attractive Taormina bay. The mooring area is also called the yacht hotel as it provides services such as taxi ashore, fresh croissants, bread, brunch etc all delivered to the boat - extra charge of course but nice. Day spent snorkelling, cave visiting on the paddle board. Taxi ashore in the evening to Veda Pura restaurant in Giardini Naxos. Very good. Will come back next week. Having been advised by George not to use the boatyard in Riposto and to go to Catania instead, we set off for Catania the following day - 26 miles. Stayed at the very good NIC yacht club. Very friendly and only €47/night. A 15 min walk to the centre. We really enjoyed Catania, amazing baroque architecture, not at all what we remembered from 32 yrs ago. Lots to do. We also met up with our UK Italian teacher whose parents live in Catania. A great place. 4 nights in Catania waiting for weather and swell to pass, plus had a successful meeting with boatyard re over winter works (including taking down the mast to repair the mast support plate - quite important work). From there back up the coast to Riposto for a couple of nights. The main reason to check out the marina where, eventually, we will leave the boat until March when it will be moved to the boatyard in Catania. The marina is fine, very sheltered, so a good place to be over the winter. Also what at first seemed like a very sleepy town, with not much to offer turned out to be quite a little gem! Glass is an excellent restaurant and there was a brilliant blues duet playing on the balcony just above us. The birreria Riposto (a micro brewery) opposite the restaurant is also brilliant with a wonderful garden and is either managed or owned by the guy playing the 'blues harp' and singing in the duet. Our last outing on the boat for this year was back to Taormina to George's buoys. He will be providing guardianage over the winter and delivering the boat to Catania next year. From the buoys a couple more outings ashore. First to Taormina town via a very steep hill. Town is pretty but so many people. The guidebooks refer to it as the centre of Sicilian tourism and they are not exaggerating! Two cruise ships pretty much filled it. Also visited Alcantara Gorges - again lots of people but worth it. Wading down the river at the bottom of the gorge was a new experience albeit very cold and a super strong current. Next year we can try the canyoning! Stayed 3 nights until the weather took a turn for the worse - very autumnal - so we headed back to Riposto and here we shall stay until we return to our home in Ramsdean and our very much missed, loved and appreciated family and friends. The end of our 15 month sabbatical.

After three nights revisiting our memories of long ago we headed to the Aeolian islands. First to Stromboli and its constantly active volcano. Very thrilling to watch the small eruptions and the ejected rocks rolling down the mountain to the sea, black sand and black rocky shoreline felt slightly oppressive. Not many anchoring spots and difficulty getting ashore in the tender probably means we won’t return. Second stop the beautiful island of Panerea. Two nights at anchor in beautiful, Cala del Drauth. Good restaurant in the bay, attractive small town and plenty of walking. We will return. Next Lipari. One night at anchor, Porticello, good spot in front of the old pumice works but couldn’t get ashore. One expensive night (€190/night and no facilities) in marina Yacht Harbour Lipari, close to the bustling, slightly tatty town. Won’t go back to the marina but will go back to explore more of the island. Last stop Vulcano. Two excellent anchages. From the first one, Porto Ponente, we were able to go ashore and climb up the smoking mountain to look into the crater. A great experience! Second night we anchored in another beautiful spot Punta Bandiera. Beach bar and apperitivi - all good. Lots more to explore next year.

Sunday 13 we left Milazzo crossing the straits of Messina to mainland Italy and a trip down memory lane . First port Scilla (pronounced Sheila). Second port Vibo Marina where, 32 years ago, we stayed for three months to repair our fire damaged engine. 32 years is a long time. In those days Scilla was a quiet hilltop town with a small harbour, mainly used by fishermen. Now it’s a busy tourist spot in a great location. It retains some of its authenticity but what were working fishermen’s harbour side cottages with slips for boats are now all thriving restaurants. Indeed we were able to have dinner in one of them overlooking our boat moored to one of the ridiculously expensive €150/night mooring buoys. Mooring harbour side is no longer an option. We were not disappointed with Vibo Marina either. Despite having grown significantly, both the town and the marina it still felt the same. A very friendly buzzy place, still with lots of Italians, and us, going for their evening passeggiata and gelato.

We spent one last night in Cefalu back in the anchorage, waiting for the swell to subside. Left Tuesday 8/8 heading east to Milazzo via Capo d’Orlando (36 miles) and Capo Tindari (15 miles). Stayed one night in Capo d’Orlando marina - very good indeed. Modern, friendly with every facility. Restaurants, bars, provisioning, all in the marina complex. Town about 4km away. Wednesday we motored sailed to Capo Tindari to stay two nights in an anchorage. A great place behind a long sand bar and in front of the Laghetti di Marinello which are inland salt lakes left by the sea behind the sand bar and with a sheer cliff face as the backdrop. Fascinating to walk through, quiet with an almost mystical feel. Plus there are two possibly three underwater statues we were able to snorkel around. Quite adventurous! Friday motor sailed to Milazzo (20 miles). We rescued a lost dinghy along the way which was quite something as we lost our own lovely dinghy in Cefalu in the overnight mistral storm. We reported the find but have been told by the port office, as there are no distinguishing marks, to keep it. Wow - feels like the Universe is watching - we are meant to have a dinghy! Two nights in Marina Milazzo di Nettuna. An interesting spot we really enjoyed. The marina is in the centre of town. It’s well protected and attractive despite being right next to the ferry port with the sound of ferries coming and going, other than that it’s surprisingly quiet. The town has a good feeling, ancient citadel and Castello and a long walk to Capo Milazzo and Piscina Venere, a natural sea water pool at the bottom volcanic cliffs (called tuffs! so we definitely had to visit).

We left Palermo on Tuesday 1 August heading towards Cefalu (37 miles). Anchored overnight outside small port of San Nicola l'Arena. Good holding, sandy patches amongst sea grass. Quiet, we were the only boat there. Arrived Cefalu anchorage on Wednesday and are still here on Sunday due to weather. Massive storm Friday night, followed by strong mistral winds. Anchor held. Now, thankfully, in the marina which is ok but expensive. We need the electricity . The beautiful anchorage is in front of the marina, completely away from the tourist filled beaches at the other end of town. The surrounding rocky cliffs reminiscent of a renaissance painting. Very busy, attractive town, good shops. Lot of tourists in town but still great place. The walk up and around the Rocca megalithic and Neolithic walls and ruins is excellent, stunning views. Having spent 2 nights in the very expensive marina €150/night (no bathroom facilities) strongly recommend to stay at anchor if you can. Even allowing for swell the pontoon we were on careered up and down considerably putting plenty of strain on the boat and the owners!

We spent three nights from Saturday to Tuesday morning in a great marina called SITIMAR in the Porto Cala area of Palermo harbour. Excellent, quiet location next to the historic centre. First impressions of Palermo were: loads of people (mainly Italian), loads of cars, vibrant, buzzy, quite a bit of rubbish, amazing architecture. There are so many beautiful, magnificent but slightly decaying buildings. Loads to do lots of different areas and places to visit. Delicious food and good restaurants. The ‘No Mafia’ memorial/exhibition is quite an emotional experience and even more disturbing knowing the Mafia presence is still strongly felt today.