As the saying goes "True gentlemen don't sail to windward" I think the reference is to the healing and bumpy motion of close hauled sailing… it tend's to spill the champagne. Well sometimes it's just not an option, when you're up in Espiritu Santo, you want to head almost due south to Noumea, a southerly's blowing and you're meeting family in a few days you just have to go.

It would only to be a three day passage but the 15 knot southerly forecast (manageable) on Monday would strengthen to 30 knots on Wednesday morning (unmanageable). Our thought was to head for the Loyalty Islands (part of New Caledonia) which is two days away, wait out the strong winds on Wednesday/Thursday then continue down to Noumea.

So with this plan we cast off into a horror of a passage, the 15 forecast was really 20 knots (we should have known) and it was right on the nose. The closest we can sail to the wind in a rough sea is around 34 degrees apparent and at that angle we're "on our ear" (as Mike calls it) with the toe-rail awash and the bow pounding through the waves. Plumes of spray shoot out with each wave and you lose your footing if you're not holding on. Originally we thought we'd make the town of We on Lifou but watched with dismay as our heading fell further and further westward.

We don't normally end up in locations different to what we set out for but that how we ended up in Ouvea Atoll, what a place! After 19 or so months of cruising this is without a doubt one of the most beautiful places we've seen. A stunning atoll of aquamarine water, white sand, largely free of threatening coral bomies and offering total protection from the swell. On Thursday (Wednesday was too windy to leave the yacht) we had a beautiful lunch ashore at La Porte de Paradis (see photo above), wonderfully simple food (we shared a roasted snapper) and a sublime setting, one place we'll remember always…