Sevusevu
14 August 2012 | Navunivi Village
Hugh
OK we can report in now on our first sevusevu... quite fun really though I still have the tingle of Yagona in my mouth.
Navunivi Village is in a big bay on the main island, Viti Levu. We stopped here overnight on the way to Nananu-i-ra Island, to visit what we were told was a very nice village and experience sevusevu. We were asked to wait on the yacht until 5:30 when the Turanga Ni Koro (mayor) would be back and more elders in the village. We had numerous visits from small boats in the afternoon. At 5:30 a son of one of the elders came past to bring us in. He took us to his family and we talked with them briefly before the sevusevu. I've never seen such smiley and happy children all giggles and white teeth. 
The village was beautiful with green grass and paths between buildings lined with hibiscus and Ti plants and the beach was the blackest sand I've ever seen. I think we were expecting to be ushered into grass huts with a very serious looking chief. Turned out that the houses while mainly one room were brick and concrete (Cyclone proof) and the chief was away so we took sevusevu with the Turanga Ni Koro and about eight other elders. We went to a large open deck and sat cross legged on the floor on woven matts. There is protocol to follow but it was most informal and friendly, Michael was very good in presenting the kava root, presenting ourselves and saying things like "we would be honoured to visit your village, share your culture and join you in sevusevu". Next the Yagona was prepared in a large carved bowl and with much hand clapping we took turns in drinking the yagona from half coconut shells. The men called it grog and even made faces like we would after drinking a shot of whisky though Mike and I can only report a slight tingling of the lips and tongue. My best description of the taste would be 10 parts water, one part mud and 1/2 part minty toothpaste. Between rounds all the men would talk and discuss their day and ask us questions. They were particular amazed at how (comparatively) young we were to be sailing around the world. We sat through six rounds before making our excuses (we'd been warned it can go on all night!).
This morning we've been invite back to have tea with the Turanga Ni Kora.