Adventures with David & Gail

Around Bocas! - We have been in Panama now about 3 ½ months and in the Bocas del Toro area for about 6 weeks with all our travels and trips, but we have said very little about the Bocas area itself. So, before we leave, and to give Bocas equal time, here we go.

Bocas del Toro is a large Panamanian state along the northeastern border with Costa Rica. It is lightly populated with mostly dense jungle, mountains and farms, and has a large indigenous Gnobe-Bulge Indian presence. Like the Kunas, the Gnobe-Bugle (pronounced "no'-bay boog-lay') are short in stature, industrious and very friendly. The Bocas del Toro archipelago is actually part of the state of Bocas del Toro. Kind of like the Keys are a part of Florida. And Bocas Town in the archipelago is like Key West!

Bocas Town is the located on the island of Isla Colon and the only real town in the archipelago. It has an airport and small sea port to transport people and goods back and forth to Almirante on the mainland. It is a big backpacker stop for tourists and a major get away for Panamanians.

In town, there are several grocery stores, a secret meat market (the store is hidden - the meat is not a secret!), restaurants galore, hostels, a hardware store, a bank, a pharmacy, two other marinas, etc. You get the picture? And the only way in or out is by boat. There is a large car ferry to Almirante but the most common way around is by water taxi in the little pangas. The panga traffic is like taxis in a big city and they will take you anywhere for a few bucks.

We are in Red Frog Beach Marina on another island called Bastimentos about 5 miles or a 15 minute panga ride to Bocas Town. There is nothing here except the marina surrounded by mangrove islands. Red Frog Beach Resort is a residential development area on the north side of the island. I am not sure of the whole history but it has been through some rough times and has not developed as fast as hoped. The houses are nice and the view of the Caribbean from the hilltops is quite impressive. Plus we use it as a good hike for some exercise from the marina.

Also in the Red Frog Beach area and within walking distance is, well, a beach. It has a restaurant, several backpacker "tent" hostels in the woods, a regular hostel with restaurant, other rain forest trails, and a zip line for the adventurous.

Around the area, we have seen tree sloths in the wild. There are monkeys but we have not seen them yet. And the little red frog, about ¾" long, is only seen the hands of the kids on the beach. I think they are poisonous but the kids seem okay.

It is very easy to settle into this marina lifestyle. It is so calm here. If you look at weather patterns, the Bocas region seems to be in a dead spot. And the location of the marina, on the lee side of the island, keeps the weather even calmer. The power is good, the water is potable and almost free, the showers clean (and even sometimes with hot water!), large laundry, and the people very sociable. The marina offers a free panga ride to Bocas Town 4 times a week for shopping (otherwise it's about $5 per person).

The downside seems to be the rain and humidity. This is the dry season so it actually only rains once or twice per day! In the rainy season, I think it just rains. You get used to the rain but the resulting mildew in the boat due to the humidity makes keeping it clean a daily chore. Some of the boats and docklines that have been here for some time are a sick color of green and black!

There is an evening happy hour on the docks and for special occasions it turns into more of a pot luck or appetizer party depending on how special it is. It is not crowded or noisy. Seems there is a larger proportion of Texans here than normal. This is a stopping place for those cruisers traveling out of the Gulf and going south. One guy in the marina actually went to Southwest Texas in San Marcos at the same time as Gail. People tend to come and go but most stay at least long enough to get acquainted.

There is not much around to explore by dingy except go over to Los Secretos, as mentioned in previous postings. The hiking is good along the beach and through the woods and residential developments.

Now that we are getting ready to leave Panama, we feel that we have got to breakout of the marina and go check out some of the other little islands and anchorages first. Our friends on Flying Fish left a couple of days ago for Honduras and Neytiri have just pulled to go exploring. So we are here waiting on a boat contract to get done and we'll be next. Keep tuned in. Same channel.

PS: For those who read the whole thing! We have mentioned that the microwave on WD went on the fritz! The key pad finally just quit. Figured the salt air and water might have had some effect after 10 years. So, one evening at Los Secretos, Gail and Amy were discussing this problem and Amy mentioned that she uses a delivery service to get things from David (that is a Panamaian city) for her restaurant. If we could pick out one during our trip to Panama City and let her know, then the delivery service could get it and have it ready in Bocas when we got back. Found one at the Panamanian equivalent to the Home Depot (called the Do-it Center) at Albrook Mall, emailed Amy, and Voila! It was here when got back. Spent a day getting the old one out, cutting the opening slightly larger for the new one and then bonding and retrimming it in. Only problem is all the instructions are in Spanish! Oh well! Gail can get in some Spanish practice.