The 'Micalvi' is a legend amongst sailors in these waters, but I never expected it to live up to its pre-publicity. But it is the most welcoming and enchanting place I had ever taken a boat. For a start, the shelter in bomb-proof. Winds of hurricane strength could not disturb this cove making it the only such place for many miles. The views of distant peaks are spectacular.The bar opens at nine every evening. The wood stove roars and the burgess and flags hang from the walls and ceilings and tell their own stories. For what is no more, really, than a sunken old coaster, it is a magic place. This morning, with a team of international helpers, I moved the boat into a place where she will be undisturbed till January. Remember, this is a busy place and the big charter yachts off to Antarctica must come here to enter Chilean waters. I expect when I return it will be like a circus. There is a great guy called Dennis (Swiss) who takes care of boats, and will tend the lines and fenders etc. He knows everything, everybody, and his advice is gold dust. He also grows strawberries in the least hospitable climate imaginable. It was driving snow yesterday, the Refleks heater roaring all day, venturing outside was only for the brave. Today the sun shone, the sun was warm, the wind did not blow - a completely different place. For a small town of less than 2000 people, Puerto Williams does well. The supermarket is dimly lit, but if you search you will everything for a basic living. We (Andreas and I) went out to the only restaurant last night. We asked for the menu and the girl (thrilled to meet someone from England) handed one over and then said, ' but there's only pizza.'
You can only expect so much from the southernmost little town in the world.