We had no idea the glacier was going to be as majestic as it proved itself to be. We motored five miles up the still, calm, silent fjord dodging the chunks of ice mostly no bigger than a sack of spuds, but sharp and sculpted to fine shapes as they thawed. Some looked like birds in flight, others like fish. One or two brushed us as we went past and even the gentle caress made a thump which reminded us that ice is dangerous and destructive stuff. Then we turned a corner and there it was - pillars of compressed ice rising straight from the water where the glacier met the sea as it tumbled down the mountainside, electric blue in colour, occasionally breaking and falling into the water with a low, growling rumble that echoed around the high mountains on all sides. We launched the dinghy and took as many pictures are we could of this remarkable spot. For this one moment alone, all the effort of getting here has been worth it. I doubt I will ever seen as impressive a natural sight ever again.