Birthday in Monte Carlo, Monaco, Cote d'Azur

Peak holiday season on the Cote d'Azur, the beaches are covered with tourists from all over world in various states of nakedness and the marinas are full of the largest and most opulent yachts in the world. John and Zig tell us the sun has been shining and the seas gloriously calm since they turned around Gibralter for the Med two months ago.

It is our fourth morning on Windancer IV, this one a little later and slower than the others, the result of being in Monaco and going with the flow of the local crowd. The evenings start well after the sun goes down. It is no misconception that this is the playground of the rich and famous - with heavy emphasis on the rich.

During our passage from Nice to Villefranche sur Mer to Monaco we were (and still are) in the company of about 15 of the world's largest one hundred private sea-going vessels and it was made clear to us in every harbor that despite being a large and graceful catamaran, we are not a member of that group.

Getting a berth in the harbor in Monaco took very thick skin and determination, to overlook our first denial two weeks prior to arrival, then being ignored over the radio as we called in during our approach to the marina and finally the First Mate being told face to face that there was no room for us. Not giving up, it took all of Captain John's charm and magic on a repeat visit to somehow sway the Monaco Port Authority to put us up after all, side-to, perfectly located, steps from the city.

We tied up about at six and started our stay by watching the Ferraris drive past the harbor road. The plan was to clean up and celebrate a birthday by going up the hill to Monte Carlo for dinner, visit the famed Casino, and watch the beautiful people enjoy the night. One only hears about the opulence; that Monaco holds more per capita millionaires than any other place in the world, that helicopters ferry folks in and out of their estates and to and from the yachts.

Off to Monte Carlo after the sunset, about 9:30, early by local standards, past the Versace, Gucci, Hermes, and Valentino shops, to the Hotel de Paris and the Monte Carlo Casino, favorite haunt of the mythical James Bond. As we approached the Casino crowds of elegantly dressed folks in black and white and diaphanous gowns were making their way into the evening's show. The road was littered with Ferrari, Maserati, Rolls, Porsche and massive elegant vehicles who's names I didn't recognize.

Dinner was at the Cafe de Paris on the circle across from the Casino and the Hotel de Paris, outdoors on the patio in a cozy back corner with views of the winging angels lining the top of the Casino. It was almost midnight when we finished but the tables were still full and more people coming in all the time. Out front the place was packed, cars going round and round and folk coming and going from the Casino.

The kids were tired out and went down the hill while we paid 10 Euro for the privilege of going in the Monte Carlo Casino to lose our money. Strangely enough, it was well worth the price of admission! The interior is ancient, taking you back to the 1800's, massive domed ceilings, painted with murals and chandeliers glittering over the roulette tables. It is easy visualize James Bond among the high rollers.

Then there were the gamblers, a dashing dude in white with silver pointed-toed shoes, young ladies sheathed in black twittering and watching their men lose a bundle and shabby folk cashing in bundles of chips. One elderly gent was playing 500 Euro minimum blackjack by himself at a table, four and five hands at a time, while a crowd watched from behind. At the roulette wheel the Captain taught me what the betting was all about as a swarthy guy playing green chips took in over 26,000 Euro in two turns of the wheel.

Unfortunately, we know our place and were "tourists" at the Casino, only able to vicariously experience the thrill of the win and agony of the loss. As John pointed out, very few of the active gamblers looked happy. At three o'clock we walked down the hill back to Windancer, completing a birthday not like any other.

Well, there was the part about driving a red Ferrari F355 Spyder roadster around the Monaco Grand Prix Formula One course through town, but that's another story........