17/09/2009 0735UTC 17 40.828S 177 23.159E Day 828 Up at 0600, 26C, Cloudy, Wind Calm.

[Above, torrents of rain buffeted by high winds whack Vuda Point Marina this afternoon.]

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The sultry, calm and quiet existence of the past couple of days exploded late this morning. The most fierce and extended period of heavy weather we have yet experienced in the tropics came roaring in like a Kenworth. The VHF radio quickly came alive:

"We've lost our engine and the genoa is in tatters. We're dropping the anchor right now and hope nobody hits us."

"It's blowing forty knots on the nose with gusts to fifty! Even inside the reef the seas are getting really big."

"Is there room at any of the marinas? We gotta get out of this weather."

"We're still two hours out from Vuda and it is really rough. There's water flying everywhere and the wind is howling in the rigging."

And so forth. An intense trough of low pressure swept the Fiji Islands group today, taking a lot of vessel commanders by surprise. Along with strong winds, the dark gray skies incessantly decanted rain by the bucketful. Palm trees took on the form of a Weather Channel hurricane update, bending and flailing in the near-cyclonic breeze.

Clearly our crew was quite content to be safely moored in a protected marina. Yachts poured into Vuda Point during the day; calls on the radio requested space in the other harbors. Marinas were making every effort to accommodate the boats, some of which had been caught unaware at the outer islands. As the maelstrom continued and the waves grew larger -- even well inside the Nadi Waters fringing reef -- a noticeable storm surge slowly rocked Wind Dancer and the other vessels here at Vuda Point Marina.

For us, there was no danger, nor any discomfort. It was, in fact, a rather entertaining day. Our recent good luck held with the fortuitous passage two days ago away from the weather-exposed Musket Cove anchorage. When the storm ignited this morning, we were tucked into a place where the only adrenalin in our veins was pumped by excited chatter on VHF radio.

"Crew Quarters"

1st Mate: Well, shut my mouth. I moaned about the heat and now it is raining cats and dogs with a nice cool wind. God does answer prayer and I wish I could remember that. Actually, I love this weather; I have more energy to get things done. I have been going through my bin of novels like a bucket of apples but it is like being in high school again with the luxury to read and read. Most of the books are garbage but I love them because the last twenty years have been only text books and manuals.

I finished one called 'Pipsqueak' which was funny, and I now have a three-kilo Stephen King going. Why must his books be so long? I swear it is to let you keep reading for fear you'll die in the end. This is one of his earlier stuff which I like better but missed along the way. 'Desperation' is good so far and I can barely put it down. But I did in order to prepare a nice Indian meal since my galley was cooler today. I am making beef curry with ginger, onion and garlic. I made a layered salad with all the fresh produce from my trip to the market yesterday: first, finely torn lettuce with coriander on top; then grated carrot, minced tomato, cucumber and green pepper. I plan to serve it with warm roti and dhal soup.

Roti is an Indian bread that is very much like a flour tortilla.

Dhal soup, which is served with many meals here, is a bit spicy and although it is based with yellow split peas it is much thinner than pea soup. Most recipes include the following ingredients: Yellow split peas, tomatoes, egg plant, onion, oil, carrots, salt, garlic, lemon juice, red chili, coriander leaves, mustard seed, cumin seed, turmeric powder, fenugreek seed, curry leaves and water. I did not make all of this from scratch as they sell a canned version from Taste of India that is very nice.

2nd Mate and 3rd Mate: [Hunkered down in the cabin all day hiding from the inclement weather.]