21/09/2009 0621UTC 17 40.828S 177 23.159E Day 832 Up at 0615, 23C, Partly Cloudy, Wind Calm.

[Above, the Fiji Western District Police Boat was re-launched this afternoon following a refit which included a pair of new, high-horsepower Suzuki outboard engines.]

[A new chapter has been added to Family Voyaging - Ak to nZ.

In 'The Friendly Islands,' we... experience life (including school) on a remote South Pacific island, render assistance to sailors in distress, learn how to prepare a native feast, visit Oceana's yachting Mecca, get haircuts from a circus performer, see Rail Rider join the crew, and discover why Captain Cook misnamed this archipelago.

To read our book, and receive voyage planning assistance (VIP Service), go to the Family Voyaging website at www.familyvoyaging.com.]

Fiji, like other islands in the South Pacific, doesn't have a coast guard. In lieu of that, police agencies handle local maritime emergencies. For broader-scale search and rescue missions or disasters, the New Zealand Royal Navy is called in. The system works pretty well, usually. But when governments are underfunded or in turmoil, responses can be, well, interesting.

In Fiji's Western District the police boat had been out of action for a while, so if a vessel was stuck on a reef or otherwise needed assistance, fellow cruisers were called upon to render aid. Even when the official vessel is available it sometimes cannot help. Take for instance a case that occurred shortly after we arrived in Fiji. A yacht hit a reef and was taking on water. They put out a distress call on VHF radio. Fijian officials replied, but told the skipper of boat in trouble that he'd have to arrange for the rescue vessel's gasoline first. It seems they were out and new supplies were unavailable for the time being.

From what we've observed, however, lack of a dedicated, local coastal rescue agency hasn't cost the lives of any mariners recently. Someone always picks up the slack. If the emergency is dire and loss of life is at stake, the NZ Royal Navy or Air Force will appear on scene with a host of resources rivaling any first-world nation. They have a large area to cover, too, from just outside the western end of French Polynesia, through the Samoas, the Cook Islands, Tonga and assorted other palm-covered dots in the vastness of the Pacific Ocean.

"Crew Quarters"

1st Mate: It was live band music at the yacht club yesterday. I took the kids swimming first. 3rd Mate brought her new friend, Coco, and we all enjoyed the cool water. The usual band, 'Kulture,' was playing and many yachties came to listen to the good music and drink the cheap beer. Greg and jen from s/v Coco Kai invited several of us over to their enormous boat (20m) for a fish feed. I brought a salad and others brought cake, deviled eggs, and more salad. It was a wonderful wahoo and rice meal. We spun yarns and drank Bacardi Gold rum, which is not available here in Fiji so it was a treat. We all came home about 2130 and hit the sack.

This morning after breakfast I went to the marina office to look over the 'Cost U Less' (like Costco) order list as I need a few items: coffee, syrup, pancake mix, baked beans, mac'n'cheese, refried beans and Spam. Meanwhile, Captain went to have our propane tank filled as it ran out after five weeks ... amazing how long it lasts even with baking. I then came back and organized the rest of my canned goods and washed down all of Wind Dancer's interior wood and then polished it in the main saloon. I have much more to go but I got the area ready for all the new canned goods when they're delivered from Suva on Wednesday.

It is Coco's birthday today so 3rd Mate worked on making her a card. The girls got together early to share toys and I had them come home for lunch. We all enjoyed grilled cheese and went to the pool to cool off. 2nd Mate and I played a game of pool and I actually won. Captain came for a dip and took 2nd Mate on as well and it just wasn't 2nd's day for billiards.

We plan to celebrate Coco's 10th birthday at First Landing tonight. We spoke with s/v Meridian on the sideband this morning and wished Maddie a Happy Birthday today also -- they both are ten. Coco let me know she is four hours older than Maddie. Ah, to be ten again.

2nd Mate: Wildlife seen today: black surgeonfish, squaretail mullet, crowned urchin, rock crab.

Woke up around 0600. I played some on the computer and read. I finished my book today! Now, I've started another Clive Cussler: 'Cyclops.' While Grace went to go play with her friend, Coco, I hung on the boat and played DS. After lunch, we met up with the girls at the pool for a dip. We cooled off and swam around before I dried off. After I was dry, Mom and I played a game of pool up at the resort. Dad also played me a game, and I lost both games. I was fumbling shots quite a bit; I guess it just wasn't my day. I came back to the boat and hung out near my cabin's fan. I watched a movie and am now resting. We're planning to go up to the resort for pizza tonight, so I doubt we'll be back in time for a movie.

Today's Fijian word: beka = flying fox.

3rd Mate: The weather today: mostly cloudy, light wind, the high was 29C, the barometer is 1009 and steady, the moon is waxing towards first quarter.

I had cereal for breakfast. Coco came over and we played with Barbies. We played with some of her Barbies in her Only Hearts Club Dollhouse. Then we went to the pool. We played gymnastics and went diving. On our way back, we caught a gecko on a table. We named him Ginko Long Arrow Jumper Gecko. We played with him on Coco's boat in her butterfly cage. Then we got to taste some cake frosting and we licked the spoon and the pan.