We hustled from La Paz all the way to Isla San Francisco in one day, where before we covered that same distance in 3 days. We arrived in the lovely Isla San Francisco late enough to just get the solar panels set up and the dinghy in the water with the engine on it.

The next morning, we went ashore where Holly and Emma stayed near the dinghy to sun and snorkel around, while Conni, Richard and I hiked around the island. It was beautiful, as usual. We took Richard up the trail to the top of the ridge, and hiked along it until we found a low place from which to reach Agate Beach. The beach combing there was excellent again. The seal vertebral column was still there, several fish and bird bones: so light!, and, of course, the many very thick shells. We still don't know why these shells should have such great thickness, but they are. I imagine that they are a response, somehow, to some conditions here.

After leaving Isla San Francisco, we motored and motor sailed northward, admiring the multi-colored strata of the coastal mountains and their fantastic shapes. Both had been noted and described by the early Spanish explorers. Similar to Alaska's waters, there are rocks and rock spire protruding from the depths in various places, some marked on our chart chip, some not. We've been glad that we have, "The Sea of Cortez, a Cruisers' Handbook", with its aerial photos and accurate GPS coordinates. We would not have known of the reefs guarding the entrance to our bay if not for the book. If you're going to cruise the Sea of Cortez, this is the first navigation book to purchase.

We trolled all day but didn't get even a single nibble. Damn! We were motoring along and we spotted our first Grey Whales! Enormous and very different from our Alaskan Humpies. They had smooth grey backs and were much larger, it seemed. It was very exciting and we're now prepared to see more today.

After we steered around the reefs into Puerto Los Gatos, and had the hook set, we watched the most amazing marine behavior that I've seen in many years. A pod of Pacific porpoises was working in concert to corral a school of prey fish. The porpoises swam in "S" patterns and pushed the fish toward shore. Not only did they herd the fish with their swimming, but they slapped the water surface with their tails, too. On occasion, they leaped into the air to make an especially large splash, presumably to frighten a recalcitrant group of fish. It was a surprisingly organized display by the porpoises. Even with the other eleven boats sharing our bay, they were unconcerned and completed the task, each porpoise eating its fill.

This bay is lovely water surrounded by desert. Saguro grows almost to the water's edge, and red-hued soft rock has been weathered into fantastic shapes.

The plan is stay here until two or so this afternoon, then head the 25 miles to our next anchorage. This morning, we'll go ashore and hike and snorkel.

After dinner, and a bit after dusk, a small local panga from a nearby village motored by and asked if we wanted to buy some of their catch. They had some fish that we refused to buy, hoping that we'd catch our own. But FRESH scallops and lobster? Yeah! We bought five huge scallops and two nice langoustine for 5 dollars. Not bad! Conni immediately prepared some ceviche from the scallop, and we gobbled it down for dessert. It was excellent! With luck, we'll have the langoustino with our freshly caught fish.

No fish! We did enjoy the lobster, but as an appetizer with our arrachera.