Resting and Planning
05 June 2017 | Fare Lagoon, Huahine, French Polynesia
We just arose from a nice sleep aboard Wings as she lies to her anchor in the lagoon of Fare, Huahine. We’ve been here many times and it’s one of our favorites.
We departed Uturoa three nights ago, after the go-round with the dirty fuel clogging filters. As we departed last Friday afternoon, the remaining dirty fuel in the hoses themselves caused the engine to cough and we quickly turned around toward Uturoa, but the engine settled and has continued to run very well. We’ve taken to removing a covering panel from the engine to help it run even cooler, and I’ve even opened the valve to the hot water tank, and heating that water also drops engine temp. We’re also keeping our speed down unless necessary, all to reduce load on this old engine. A side benefit to the water heater decision is that we have copious hot water for dishes and bathing.
After departing Uturoa, we motored south through increasingly narrow and convoluted water, carefully following channel markers and our forward looking sonar. Conni had read that there were some mooring buoys in a bay named Viarahi, and sure enough, as we passed by, we found one unoccupied. Well then..let’s spend the night. In Uturoa, we had purchased a new boat hook, so grabbing and securing the mooring line was minutes of work and we had a secure mooring for the night. Damn, I LOVE moorings! We passed a gentle night.
We departed the next morning and slowly motored further south, since we had not been so far south on Raiatea by boat, although we had been there by vehicle. We both remembered, for example, driving past Viarahi and seeing the boats moored there. It was interesting to see the area from the lagoon side.
The passages became even more constricted and we had to carefully follow the chart and channel markers, but finally arrived at the site of Taputapuatea, the holiest site in the Eastern South Pacific. We’ve documented our visit to this famous marae complex in previous trips, but we’d never seen it from the lagoon side. Conni’s study had indicated that there were moorings in the bay just south, Hotopu’u, and sure enough, there was one unoccupied. We stayed the night in a beautiful bay with rock faces of basalt towering several hundred feet above us. The weather had remained good, so we enjoyed the beauty of the area, as we hid from sun. The sun shade that Madame Faux made, and the clever use of another piece of shade material, have created a two-sided wall of sun relief for the cockpit, reducing the glaring heat that can roast us. It’s a life-saver, and was especially so this time.
Now we know where to bring our sets of guests, the first of which arrives 11 June: my sister Debbie, and her husband, Philippe. The plan for the first group is to tour the northern Society Island area to see some of the important and lovely places, then make the overnight sail to Tahiti to deposit D and P, then fetch our next guests, Nate and Val, and return with them on an overnight sail to see sights in the northern Societies. We’ll leave them at either Bora Bora or Raiatea, and travel immediately to put the boat to bed. In many ways, our trip is almost over!
The sail from Teavamoa Pass in front of Hotopu’u was very narrow but deep and free of obstructions, so we dared it to quickly leave the lagoon and begin our motor sail to Huahine. The engine performed magnificently and we arrived with little ado. Although there were no unused mooring, we dropped the anchor and enjoyed the afternoon.
Later, we splashed the dinghy, set the outboard, and motored to enjoy a great meal at the Huahine Yacht Club, a favorite for several legs in the area. I had fresh grilled Marlin, and a MaiTai, while Conni ordered her usual Poisson Cru, also with a MaiTai. Holy smokes! The meals were, as usual, exceptional and the view of Sun setting just north of Raiatea, all framed by palms, was spectacular.
We plan to drop our grossly dirty, sweaty clothes at the local laundry spot, and motor to Avea Bay, one of our favorites on Huahine. I don’t remember about Internet there, but perhaps I can post the photos that I have.