For readers, remember that I had written about the Alaskan sailboat, S/V Morning Dove’s, grounding in the Tuamotus. We were confused about how the collision occurred since there are no reefs in the area of the collision and we doubted that the very experienced skipper would make mistakes such as running too close to the island’s reef. Our heart goes out to them.

The owner of the Raiatea Carenage, Dominique, entered the carenage’s little boating gear shop just as we were wandering around in it and he mentioned that he had just returned from dealing with a sailboat that had gone aground. Conni and I realized instantly what boat he meant and asked him if it were Morning Dove. Yes, it was. He first-person news.

Unfortunately, Morning Dove was not salvageable. Dominique said that the wound in her was over two meters long and wide and that she was completely waterlogged. The small boat yard (carenage) in Apataki did not have sufficient depth of water to bring the boat ashore and Dominique simply could not haul Morning Dove to Raiatea for repair. It’s a three-day trip across open ocean hauling a vessel afloat because of air bags: nope. He was forced to haul her to sea and sink her. He said that he cried to see such a glorious vessel disappear below the waves, although it was the 123 vessel that he’s hauled from reefs during his career.

As we departed for the carenage this morning, we dropped by a small marche (market) to buy some groceries and a baguette. Out front we saw our fist “mahu” or male dressed as a female. They’re not gay, they just identify as female. The practice started as the “second son” process. First sons inherited everything and there was nothing for the second son to do so he was commonly raised as a female. He would then provide child care, and other traditionally female chores. Gender was not, as Conni phrases it, as binary as it is in the US. This mahu was, of course, tall and attractive but had a male physique.

Much was accomplished today. The crew returned from vacation and put two coats of bottom paint on the boat. Done! Another crew completed the preparation of the cap rail for varnishing, so that’s done, too. In a few days, weather permitting, all of the varnishing will be completed.

I got a new bilge panel switch installed, and wiring connected. I think that I’ve mentioned that our bilge pump automatic feature has failed and we’ve got to get something to replace it. I’m working on that problem.

Conni came up with a clever way to mount our new oscillating galley fan, so I’ll try to get that completed tomorrow. It entails re-purposing an aluminum strap that her dad provided for another project, but this is more important. I’ve got to bend the strap in a bench vice, drill some holes, and get things mounted, but it looks solvable. Evidently, operating the fan while its upside down causes the oscillating feature to fail. Since moving lots of air is paramount, oscillation is also important. I’ll mount the old fan somewhere else.

We also got one of our solar panels mounted, clearning a lot of interior space and allowing access to my tools.

We also receive our (gulp!) invoice tomorrow. Yikes!

For those of you contemplating cruising in this area, bring with you all the heavy, bulky, and hazardous items with you. Paint and varnish, paper towels (a roll is US$3 here), and butane for various soldering tools are very expensive or non-existent here.