Wyvern's Wanderings

Vessel Name: Wyvern
Vessel Make/Model: 1977 Irwin Ketch
Hailing Port: El Jobean, Florida
Crew: Charlie and Phyllis Atha
About: After living aboard our 42' Irwin for almost 10 years, we sold her and bought a home in El Jobean, Florida. Bought a storm damaged 1996 Hunter 45 and have been working on it for the past 3 years. THEN we sold the Hunter and purchased the Irwin back. Feels like home!
Extra: Both Charlie and Phyllis are USCG licensed captains and ASA sailing instructors.
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27 March 2019 | Nassau Harbor, New Providence, Bahamas
25 March 2019 | Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas
24 March 2019 | Norman's Cay, Exumas, Bahamas
23 March 2019 | Shroud Cay, Exuma Islands, Bahamas
22 March 2019 | Hawksbill Cay & Wardwick Wells, Exuma Islands, Bahamas
21 March 2019 | Emerald Rock, Wardwick Wells, Exuma Islands, Bahamas
20 March 2019 | Johnny Depp's Island, Exuma Cays, Bahamas
19 March 2019 | Staniel Cay, Exuma Islands, Bahamas
19 March 2019 | Staniel Cay, Exuma Islands, Bahamas
18 March 2019 | Staniel Cay, Exuma Islands, Bahamas
17 March 2019 | Staniel Cay, Exuma Islands, Bahamas
16 March 2019 | Blackpoint, Great Guana Cay, Exuma Islands, Bahama
15 March 2019 | Blackpoint, Great Guana Cay, Exuma Islands, Bahama
14 March 2019 | White Point, Great Guana Cay, Exumas, Bahamas
13 March 2019 | White Point, Great Guana Cay, Exumas, Bahamas
12 March 2019 | White Point, Great Guana Cay, Exumas, Bahamas
11 March 2019 | White Point, Great Guana Cay, Exumas, Bahamas
11 March 2019 | White Point, Great Guana Cay, Exumas, Bahamas
10 March 2019 | Isaac Bay, Great Guana Cay, Exumas, Bahamas
09 March 2019 | Blackpoint, Great Guana Cay, Exuma Islands, Bahama
Recent Blog Posts
27 March 2019 | Nassau Harbor, New Providence, Bahamas

Lazy

Okay, I was lazy last night and didn't send out the Wanderings. My cousin, Brenda, and her husband, Steve, left yesterday for home. After breakfast in the morning, we dinghied downtown Nassau. We went to the Straw Market, then walked around and visited a few other tourist shops. I stopped at the [...]

25 March 2019 | Nassau, New Providence, Bahamas

Sailing!

Charlie and Steve were up and had us headed toward Nassau by 7:00 this morning. They put up all three sails and turned off the engine. First time this season we have had the right winds to be able to sail without the engine with all three sails. For the first half of the trip across from Normans Cay, we were able to maintain 5 to 6 knots. But, naturally, you can't have too much of a good thing. The wind started dying about half way over. We were down to 3 knots at times and we really wanted to get there as early as possible, so the engine came back on and we motorsailed the rest of the way. The total distance today was 35 miles. We arrived at a bit after 2:00. On the way over, Charlie beat some conch that I had thawed and we had cracked conch for lunch. After we anchored in Nassau Harbor, Charlie took Steve and Brenda over to Atlantis. They were able to see the casino and the lobby and some of the grounds, but they are not too welcoming over there unless you buy a day pass for about $85.00 each to go into the aquarium and use their other facilities. On their way back, they took a short detour over to Potter's Cay. They didn't find a place to tie up the dinghy and go ashore, but they were not too impressed with the back sides of the shanty food shacks or the old conch boats and mailboats tied up to the docks. They said Atlantis was just too high class, but Potter's Cay was a bit too lower class. Dirty and a bit scary in their opinion. Potter's Cay is a locals working class area. Would be like going to the docks in New York I would imagine. Just a little too tough of a neighborhood. They made it back about 5:30. I was convinced to just make burgers for dinner, so that is what we had. The skies were much sunnier today and the wind today was a bit calmer and warmer. This evening is mostly clear. The wind is now cool to be out in, but if we stay in the cockpit or the boat, the temperature is comfortably warm. The picture is of Steve and Brenda in the cockpit looking at Atlantis and Nassau on the horizon.

24 March 2019 | Norman's Cay, Exumas, Bahamas

We had a bit of rolling and rocking last night. The skies were overcast. I did see the moon peek through a few times. And windy. I decided to have cereal for breakfast. Both, BOTH, of the quarts of milk we bought at Staniel were bad. Not out of date yet, but bad. I was a bit peeved. I ate a piece of cake Charlie had baked last night. The rest had French toast. After breakfast, Charlie took Steve and Brenda up the creek to the other side of the island. They couldn't see much in the water because the wind had it rippled too much. But, they did see several turtles. They stopped at one spot and walked the beach for a bit. Camp Driftwood is a definite stop. They climbed to the top to get a 360 degree view. When they made it back, Charlie fixed his famous grilled cheese sandwiches for lunch. We weighed anchor and motored another 3-5 miles to Norman's Cay. We anchored just north of the old McDuff's place on the west side of the island. We snuggled up close enough to the island to get out of the wind chop and any swells. The wind is from the east and still blowing 15 to 20. Charlie, Steve and Brenda went ashore to a somewhat rocky beach to explore. I stayed aboard to catch up on the Wanderings. We are having chicken marsala for dinner. The skies were even more overcast today than yesterday. No peeking moon tonight. The wind is still blowing. We are sitting quiet and comfortable. The wind is cold though. As long as the wind is blocked, it is comfortable. Thank goodness for our enclosure! The picture shows Steve overlooking the interior of Shroud with part of the creek visible. If you look very closely, you can see our masts on the far side.

23 March 2019 | Shroud Cay, Exuma Islands, Bahamas

Lil' Bit of History Hike

The seas in the anchorage were a bit rolly last night. We had some wrap around swell come from the point just north of us. It went through spells where it was very quiet, then a rolling spell. After breakfast this morning, we packed the backpacks and ice chest with water, cold beer and snacks. The ice chest we left in the dinghy, because it would be too heavy to hike with. But, we had backpacks with water and snacks. We hiked up to the Russell Ruins, which is the ruins of small Loyalist cabins made out of rock and concrete. The concrete was made from baked and crushed conch shells and sand. Thes cabins are maybe 10 by 20 feet with two rooms. Low ceilings. The walls were rocks cemented together then skimmed with a layer of concrete. They were built on top of the hill, so all the conch shells had to be hauled up. Rocks are everywhere, so they probably just gathered them where it was convenient. We saw the old oven where they baked the shells and some rock walls which were pens or housing for animals. After looking at two of the cabins, we made our way back down the steep slope to the trail that goes across the island. A pretty good walk. We were glad it was sort of overcast. We walked on the rocks around the north point to a long beach with all kinds of flotsam and jetsam on the beach. Brenda found a makeshift bucket to carry here goodies back. Charlie found a plastic float that was too big for his backpack, so he carried the back pack and Steve carried the float. I had one Styrofoam float I carried back. We found a tree with some milk boxes and an old chair under it, so we could rest up before our hike back. Then we took a second break when we made it back across the island to the dinghy with the ice chest. The cold drinks were nice. When we made it back to the boat, we had a light lunch of crab salad. We were not too hungry since we had been snacking even though it was 2:00. We decided to go snorkeling after lunch. Steve, Brenda and I just went in from the Wyvern. Charlie wanted to check out a coral head that was further away, so he took the dinghy. Our coral head, wasn't too good. Had some pretty little fish, but most of the coral looked dead or damaged. Charlie said his coral head was prettier and he even saw a lobster. We left Hawksbill after the snorkeling and motored a whole 3-5 miles to Shroud Cay, anchoring on the north side of the spit at the mooring field. I fixed sautéed shrimp and stirfry for dinner. Then we taught Steve and Brenda how to play Scrabble. The wind did come up last night and blew 15 to 18 knots. We had just a little roll and rock, but not too much. Weather was overcast all day and night. I did see the moon peek through occasionally. Still warm unless you were out in the wind. The wind was cool. I had difficulty with my computer last night, thus the reason for the delayed Wanderings.

22 March 2019 | Hawksbill Cay & Wardwick Wells, Exuma Islands, Bahamas

Exuma Land and Sea Park

We have been in the Exuma Land and Sea Park since we the day after we left Staniel Cay But, today, Charlie took Steve and Brenda into shore to visit the headquarters. They paid for our anchoring last night, since we were right near the headquarters. That is a sore subject with us, but I have mentioned that before. They walked up to BooBoo Hill. The highest point on Wardwick Wells and placed their wooden plaque on the pile, designating who they were and that they were here. A tradition among cruisers that visit and their guests who may be aboard. Some of the plaques are very elaborate, routed or painted. Most are just boards with the information in permanent marker. BooBoo Hill offers a nice 360 degree view of the island and the waters around it. They had to wade the creek to get there and with the full moon, the tide was extra high. Up to Charlie's thigh. While they were gone, I put together marinara sauce and put it on the stove to simmer all day. I also got chili out of the freezer to have for lunch, and cracked some ice out of the ice cube trays. Just as I finished up and was going up to the cockpit to relax, they made it back to the boat. We weighed anchor, then put up the main sail and motorsailed toward Hawksbill Cay. Naturally, most of the distance, the wind was blowing from the north. Where we want to go. Charlie went a bit off course and we continued to motorsail until we had to turn into the anchorage. Charlie, Steve and Brenda dinghied in to shore to walk the long pretty white sandy beach that sort of encircles the anchorage. Charlie took a break, but Steve and Brenda walked the whole length. Nothing really on the beach that was interesting, but pretty and they got their exercise. I gathered and prepared all the other stuff for dinner. Spaghetti water, spaghetti, garlic bread and salads. We had spaghetti and meatballs and salads for dinner. With day light savings time, we don't quit playing and have dinner until about 7:00. That makes for a short evening since everyone (but me) is ready for bed at nine. The weather has not been so perfect last night or today. Though the velocity isn't too high, maybe 10 to 15 knots. A bit higher last night, the wind came from the west and northwest. Not great for the Emerald Rock anchorage. We hobbyhorsed all night. This morning the wind clocked a bit farther north holding us sideways to the swells, so we started rolling sideways. We sort of banged into the waves coming to Hawksbill Cay. When we first came into the anchorage, the waves were much calmer, but I believe after dark they have gotten a bit worse. I'm hoping for better later tonight and tomorrow.

21 March 2019 | Emerald Rock, Wardwick Wells, Exuma Islands, Bahamas

Johnny Depp's Island

Charlie made banana pancakes and sausage for breakfast. On our way out of the anchorage, we slowly drove by Johnny Depp's Island. We saw a couple of beaches with beach lounge chairs, little sailboats, gazebos and other toys. But, we didn't see Johnny. We did see what must have been the caretaker though. After re-anchoring at the south tip of Johnny's island, so we could dinghy over to the sunken plane, the sea aquarium, and O'Brien's Cay for a walk over to the windward beach. We just used the look bucket to look at the sunken airplane. The look bucket is just a bucket that Charlie cut the bottom out of and replaced the bottom with plexiglass. Works like a huge snorkel mask that is big enough for several people to see what is below the water. There were too many boats at the Sea Aquarium when we went past, so we decided to go on over to O'Brien's Cay. The tide was high and one lagoon that is normally dry or too shallow to dinghy into had plenty of water, so we dinghied into a beach. We walked the beach. Didn't find much, but saw some territory that I had never seen. I did find some tiny shells that were colorful. Brenda found several shells that she liked. When we got back to the dinghy, it was high and dry. Luckily not too far and we were able too dinghy back out. We then went into the deeper lagoon to another beach. We walked that beach, then across the island. Not a decent path. We hiked over rocks most of the way. Waves were crashing onto the rocky shore in a spectacular display of plumes. We finally made it to the beach. Again, we only found a few small shells to bring back. We did stop by the Sea Aquarium, but we forgot to bring the dinghy ladder and no one was eager to jump in because the current was so strong. So we fed the sergeant majors and yellow tail snappers some corn and watched them, then looked at the coral and fish through the look bucket. On our way back to the boat, we dinghied up closer to Johnny Depp's island and took a picture of one of the beaches, with possibly his house up on the little hill. See if you can see it in the picture. Back at the boat, we weighed anchor and motored on flat seas to Emerald Rock just south of the Exuma Land and Sea Park headquarters on Wardwick Wells. Once anchored, we decided to snorkel a couple of small coral heads. The conditions were perfect. No current, bright sunny sky and water extremely clear. We saw all kinds of colorful tropical fish. Some beautiful coral. I saw a huge crab and Charlie saw a Nassau Grouper. We snorkeled another coral head, and then we all admitted that we were tired and ready for the day to end. We came back to the boat. Everyone took a shower to get rid of the salty feel. We had pork chops with potatoes/squash/onion mix. Brenda is spoiling Charlie, because she has been doing the dishes every evening. Really, she has basically been doing all the dishes. Weather today was warm. The sun was intense and we had a very mild breeze. Just enough to keep us somewhat cool.

Land Cruising

01 April 2016 | Governor's Harbor, Eleuthera, Bahamas
Phyllis Atha/sunny and warm
Charlie and Troy walked up to Edgar Gardner’s home and picked up our rental van, then came back down and picked the rest of us up at the dinghy beach. I had to take our dinghy and go over to Make It Easy and Gypsy Soul to pick up Tim, MaryAnn and Lori. I was proud of myself, I steered right up to each of the boats without missing my targets. Our first stop was at the pink sand beach on the Atlantic side of the island right here in Governor’s Harbor at the old Club Med. The sand did have a pink tint to it if you look close enough or caught it in the right light. We headed north on the Queen’s Hwy from there. We drove through Alice Town on Hatchet Bay. Hatchet Bay is a large rock sided landlocked pond which has had an entrance cut into the rock shoreline to allow access to the sea. It is naturally well protected from 360 degrees, but some say it has poor holding. There are several moorings there though, which would provide secure anchoring if they are well maintained. Always a question here in the Bahamas. From there we stopped and got snacks and fuel for the van in Gregory Town, then on to the Glass Window. The Glass Window is an extremely narrow section of the island which used to have a natural rock arch over a cut in the island which is actually under water at high tide. At low tide, the two sections of the island are still connected, so I guess that is why it is still considered one island. The natural arch was destroyed when a wave that had to be 60 feet high to reach the arch, washed it away. After that a bridge was built to allow access across the gap. Now sure when the latest bridge was built, but it was/is a substantial concrete structure. Approximately 20 years ago another rouge wave came and pushed the bridge over 7 feet. Rather than having to rebuild the whole bridge, a pillar was built to support the west part of the bridge that had been pushed off its foundation. The water line that was attached to the side of the bridge now lies on what would have been the lane on the west side. They now use the bridge as a one-lane bridge with the south bound traffic required to wait on northbound traffic to pass on the bridge first. It is impressive to look at and imagine the immensity of the wave that pushed it over. Pictures cannot really capture that impression or the beauty of the deep blue Atlantic ocean crashing on the huge rock bluffs on the east side and the shallow, turquoise water on the Eleuthera Bight on the other side. One would have to be up in a helicopter or plane to really do it justice. From there we drove on north through the Lower Bogue (that’s the correct spelling) and the Upper Bogue to the Bluff, where the ferry crosses over to Spanish Wells. Our next stop was Preacher’s Cave which is on the north coast just off the Devil’s Backbone. The Devil’s Backbone encompasses the whole northern coast which is just a maze of coral heads and reefs. So named because the area has claimed numerous shipwrecks. The Harbor Island Ferry goes from Spanish Wells to Harbor Island through the Backbone and is quite interesting to experience the ride while the captain pilots at a pretty fast speed zigzagging through the maze. The Preacher’s Cave is a large cave with the most of the front side open. The passengers of one of the shipwrecks took shelter in the cave and ended up settling as the first Eleutherans. We had to wander out on narrow blacktop roads, then a dirt road to get there, but it was well worth the drive. We stopped at the North Eleutheran International Airport at a tiny deli for a late lunch, then went in search of the Hatchet Bay Cave which we missed on the way north. With the help of Google Map, we finally found the unmarked dirt lane that led to the cave. It is suppose to be a labyrinth of chambers a mile long. This cave ended up having a small opening just large enough for a person to walk into, but there was a very large wasp nest right in the opening. Not that we were prepared to go spelunking since we didn’t have adequate flashlights or a guide. We left that for our next visit to the island. We made one more stop at a roadside veggie stand and bought some fresh veggies. The farm plot was right next to the stand. Pretty fresh. When we made it back to Governor’s Harbor, us girls visited a couple of gift shops, but didn’t find anything we wished to buy. The guys helped Troy haul several jugs of diesel. Charlie and I then took the van back to Edgar’s home and walked back to the dinghy. We were all so pooped after our long days journey that we stayed on our respective boats for the evening. A fish fry fundraiser with jazz music is happening just on shore and we have been enjoying the music. An enjoyable way to spend the evening and end our stay here.
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Wyvern's Photos - Main
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Created 12 December 2010
Our 1996 Hunter 45
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Created 12 December 2010