Nichola / Raining today, but has been good
07/17/2011, Gairloch Harbour

We've had 2 good days ashore until the rain came today. On Friday we walked the 3 miles along the road to Sheildaig from where we did a 3 mile walk to the Fairy Lochs and the site of a war time plane crash.

Despite the leaflet saying the path was boggy it was lovely and dry compared to our hill walking in N. Uist and Rona. A well trod track led us to some small lochs with proper soft sand on their shore, which was strange being around 60m above sea level and a mile in-land. We're guessing that the sand is from when sea levels were higher and the lochs were actually an estuary. The path then wound up over rougher ground with rocky patches, bringing us a series of smaller lochs - the Fairy Lochs. In one of these lochs a B24H Liberator plane crashed when returning to the USA after the war in June 1945. The aircraft wreckage remains scattered over a wide area amongst the rocks and in the loch itself; a propeller stands like a sentinel pointing upright from the surface of the loch and an engine sits next to a tiny island. Amongst the rusted and broken pieces of plane a shiny piece of unblemished stainless steel stood out, pretty amazing to have remained so shiny in such a harsh environment. A plaque commemorates this tragic accident listing the names of the 15 people who lost their lives.

We left the crash site to climb to a higher point for a good view of the mountain ranges all around us. The sun would occasionally come out to sparkle on the small waves on the lochs and we spotted a mountain that looks just like the one on Close Encounters.....

The walk was soon over and it was back to the road for the 3 miles back to Gairloch and an evening in the New Inn listening to some live music.

Saturday's outing was to watch the sheepdog trial in Gairloch. We walked via the beach which is a beautiful stretch of golden sand. At the sheepdog trial we were greeted with a leaflet that explained what the dogs and shepherd had to do and directed to a tent where the smell of bacon butties was wafting out from. Well it was lunchtime so we couldn't resist a butty (very good and sooooo cheap!) and eyed up all the home baked cakes whilst we waited.

We settled down on the grass in the sunshine to watch the dogs. They had to start with a big run across a field and then up a hill - some dogs never even made it up the hill as they got confused about where to go. Those that made it to the 3 sheep had to bring them down the hill and around through two sets of gates before finally being herded into a pen. The first dog we watched was amazing, keeping really close to the sheep and not letting them break away. The next dogs weren't so great but then I think some of it was down to the sheep being very awkward! Some sheep didn't even seem bothered that the dog was there and others did their best to go in exactly the wrong direction. The crowd was really behind the dogs, collectively groaning when a sheep broke away. It was good fun!

We ended a great afternoon with some cakes and bought some to take home and put in the freezer. On our way back we stocked up with meat and veg from Morrison's butchers at which point the rain arrived for our 2 mile walk home.

Back at Emerald we found we had boats rafted against us. The first one turned out to be a 40 tonne steel yacht, a little longer than us. The harbour master had advised us that 3 yachts rafted was ok in calm weather but only 2 in strong winds; as we arrived back a second boat was coming alongside, so Colin had to tell them no as the forecast was for up to force 7 winds. We felt bad but at the end of the day we didn't want Emerald damaged or the pontoon broken off! We weren't very keen about the 40 tonner next to us as it would put a lot of pressure on Emerald's cleats. They suggested swapping places but the harbour master had also said that if the wind really got up then there should be no rafting, in which case we'd then be the outside boat and would have to leave. So we said no. This morning the harbour master arrived and told them they'd have to leave (there are lots of anchorages and some strong mooring buoys around the corner); they weren't very happy and blamed us for it!

Today is rainy and low cloud is hanging over the hills. So we're catching up with a bit of admin and having a lazy day, eating the cakes we bought yesterday.

2011: Around the UK

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Nichola / Dry but overcast
07/14/2011, Rona to Gairloch: 18nm travelled

Photo is of Emerald in the Rona anchorage, the lodge in the foreground.

The day started sunny but windier than we'd expected. We did our usual worry all the way there when going into a marina or harbour as to whether there would be space for us. Gairloch says it has 60m of pontoon for visiting yachts but in reality there is only really about 30m. We motor-sailed up the Sound of Raasay, the wind up our stern, a point of sail Emerald doesn't do very well at without poling out the yankee. Off the top of Rona we got the engine off and genny out, but with the waves that had built up from the F5/6 the wind kept being spilled from the genny so we went for main-sail only. We managed an average of 5kts so not too shabby.

As usual, the wind was gusting F6 as we approached Gairloch harbour - we could see only 1 mast over the top of the pier but didn't want to count our chickens too soon.... Rounding the pier we were delighted to see a piece of pontoon perfectly sized for Emerald. Colin got her turned around, I jumped off the bow (a technique perfected in the box moorings in the Baltic last year) and we were on.

The forecast isn't looking great for the next few days so we'll probably stay here until maybe Monday. There's loads to do - I've already planned us a walk and bike ride! Colin is groaning  (Beer!! Pubs, beer!!skip)

2011: Around the UK

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Nichola / 3 days of sun
07/11/2011, East Loch Tarbert, Harris to Rona (Acarseid Mhor) via Shiant Islands: 45nm travelled

We left Tarbert late morning, as we were motoring down the loch, Colin suggested a detour via the Shiant Islands to go and see puffins - I agreed in an instant! The wind was stronger than forecast, a F6 most of the time on the nose but we plugged into it for the 10nm trip. Puffins lined the route along with guillemots and razorbills; fulmars swooped and dived all around us, their wing tips skimming the waves. With blue skies and the sun sparkling off the waves it was a pretty spectacular sight.

As we neared the Shiants the sound of the birds grew. A swell was rolling into the bay between the islands making it difficult to get close to the rocks so I had to content myself with watching the many puffins on the water and admiring the basalt column cliffs of the islands.

With our late start from Tarbert, it was nearly 3pm by the time we got to the Shiants and with another 25nm to go to Rona we reluctantly left the puffins in peace. We were able to sail the leg to Rona, a broad reach with a F6 pushing Emerald up to 7.5kts. The headsail that we had re-cut into a yankee from a 140% genoa is definitely an improvement.

We arrived at Rona about 7pm having had a bit of a grim time down Raasay Sound, the auto-pilot struggling with the rolly-rolly following sea. We worried about getting the main down but in the end all went well and the shelter from the island outside Acairseid Mhor was perfect for getting into the anchorage.

We had two fantastic days on Rona enjoying the warm sunshine, wearing ourselves out by walking pretty much the length of the island, a bit boggy in places and tick-y too (I picked 7 off my legs) but with fabulous views. We climbed to the highest point to watch the sunset - we got there a bit early and realised we'd forgotten the hipflask - doh! We met the island owner who told us a few tales and partook of the Rona food; topping up the freezer with some venison steaks and mince and buying a few handfuls of squat lobsters which we cooked into a Thai curry. We also bought some Rona tartan to make into one of our new cushion covers.

We both agree that Rona is our favourite place on this trip (so far!).

2011: Around the UK

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