Nichola / Sun one day, mizzle the next
07/18/2011, Gairloch Harbour

18th July
Image: A nonchalant sheep whilst cycling near Gairloch.

Monday morning was a complete contrast to Sunday, blue skies and warmth greeted us as we popped up out of the hatch to see Ellan Vannin coming alongside, who we'd met in Lochmaddy. Despite what seemed like great weather we decided to stay another two days in Gairloch as the wind was forecast to still be strong from the north, although it was hard to tell as the harbour was well sheltered from northerly winds. A Danish boat set off, aiming for the Shiants - they arrived back 4 hours later citing fog and strong wind, so a decision well made on our behalf.

We took a walk up to the waterfalls in Flowerdale which were thundering after yesterday's rain. We'd have kept dry feet if I hadn't suggested a little off-roading to look at another waterfall I'd spotted - there was no path and the ground was like a giant sponge. We didn't get that great a view of the falls either; we should have stuck to the advice in the film "An American Werewolf in London" - don't stray off the path!

For the afternoon we got the bikes out and cycled out through Gairloch, Strath and Big Sand and up a long hill on the road out to the Rubha Reidh lighthouse. The weather was t-shirt warm but out at sea we could see the fog bank that the Danes had encountered, hiding Skye and the Outer Hebrides. We turned back at Peterburn, enjoying the weeeeeeeee of the downhill back to Big Sand where we made a detour onto the beach. Golden, clean sand with hardly anyone on it and the surreal sight of a teenage boy walking about in the sea playing his guitar!


We made it back to Emerald before a big black cloud that had been looming in the distance arrived and drinks with our neighbours Susan and John, rounded off a very enjoyable day.

19th July
The mizzle had returned so we headed to the local Gairloch museum which was pretty busy with people escaping the wet. It was the sort of rain that you don't notice until 20 minutes later when you're soaked. The museum had the old light from Rubha Reidh lighthouse - the precision cutting on the huge pieces of glass was impressive. They also had a bit of history on the geology of the place, more information (including a photo of the servicemen who died) on the Fairy Loch plane crash and displays on what life was like for crofters in days gone by.

Huge scones and coffee at the Mountain Coffee cafe and another browse in their great bookshop (we have a list for Christmas presents now) before heading back.

2011: Around the UK

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Nichola / Raining today, but has been good
07/17/2011, Gairloch Harbour

We've had 2 good days ashore until the rain came today. On Friday we walked the 3 miles along the road to Sheildaig from where we did a 3 mile walk to the Fairy Lochs and the site of a war time plane crash.

Despite the leaflet saying the path was boggy it was lovely and dry compared to our hill walking in N. Uist and Rona. A well trod track led us to some small lochs with proper soft sand on their shore, which was strange being around 60m above sea level and a mile in-land. We're guessing that the sand is from when sea levels were higher and the lochs were actually an estuary. The path then wound up over rougher ground with rocky patches, bringing us a series of smaller lochs - the Fairy Lochs. In one of these lochs a B24H Liberator plane crashed when returning to the USA after the war in June 1945. The aircraft wreckage remains scattered over a wide area amongst the rocks and in the loch itself; a propeller stands like a sentinel pointing upright from the surface of the loch and an engine sits next to a tiny island. Amongst the rusted and broken pieces of plane a shiny piece of unblemished stainless steel stood out, pretty amazing to have remained so shiny in such a harsh environment. A plaque commemorates this tragic accident listing the names of the 15 people who lost their lives.

We left the crash site to climb to a higher point for a good view of the mountain ranges all around us. The sun would occasionally come out to sparkle on the small waves on the lochs and we spotted a mountain that looks just like the one on Close Encounters.....

The walk was soon over and it was back to the road for the 3 miles back to Gairloch and an evening in the New Inn listening to some live music.

Saturday's outing was to watch the sheepdog trial in Gairloch. We walked via the beach which is a beautiful stretch of golden sand. At the sheepdog trial we were greeted with a leaflet that explained what the dogs and shepherd had to do and directed to a tent where the smell of bacon butties was wafting out from. Well it was lunchtime so we couldn't resist a butty (very good and sooooo cheap!) and eyed up all the home baked cakes whilst we waited.

We settled down on the grass in the sunshine to watch the dogs. They had to start with a big run across a field and then up a hill - some dogs never even made it up the hill as they got confused about where to go. Those that made it to the 3 sheep had to bring them down the hill and around through two sets of gates before finally being herded into a pen. The first dog we watched was amazing, keeping really close to the sheep and not letting them break away. The next dogs weren't so great but then I think some of it was down to the sheep being very awkward! Some sheep didn't even seem bothered that the dog was there and others did their best to go in exactly the wrong direction. The crowd was really behind the dogs, collectively groaning when a sheep broke away. It was good fun!

We ended a great afternoon with some cakes and bought some to take home and put in the freezer. On our way back we stocked up with meat and veg from Morrison's butchers at which point the rain arrived for our 2 mile walk home.

Back at Emerald we found we had boats rafted against us. The first one turned out to be a 40 tonne steel yacht, a little longer than us. The harbour master had advised us that 3 yachts rafted was ok in calm weather but only 2 in strong winds; as we arrived back a second boat was coming alongside, so Colin had to tell them no as the forecast was for up to force 7 winds. We felt bad but at the end of the day we didn't want Emerald damaged or the pontoon broken off! We weren't very keen about the 40 tonner next to us as it would put a lot of pressure on Emerald's cleats. They suggested swapping places but the harbour master had also said that if the wind really got up then there should be no rafting, in which case we'd then be the outside boat and would have to leave. So we said no. This morning the harbour master arrived and told them they'd have to leave (there are lots of anchorages and some strong mooring buoys around the corner); they weren't very happy and blamed us for it!

Today is rainy and low cloud is hanging over the hills. So we're catching up with a bit of admin and having a lazy day, eating the cakes we bought yesterday.

2011: Around the UK

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Nichola / Dry but overcast
07/14/2011, Rona to Gairloch: 18nm travelled

Photo is of Emerald in the Rona anchorage, the lodge in the foreground.

The day started sunny but windier than we'd expected. We did our usual worry all the way there when going into a marina or harbour as to whether there would be space for us. Gairloch says it has 60m of pontoon for visiting yachts but in reality there is only really about 30m. We motor-sailed up the Sound of Raasay, the wind up our stern, a point of sail Emerald doesn't do very well at without poling out the yankee. Off the top of Rona we got the engine off and genny out, but with the waves that had built up from the F5/6 the wind kept being spilled from the genny so we went for main-sail only. We managed an average of 5kts so not too shabby.

As usual, the wind was gusting F6 as we approached Gairloch harbour - we could see only 1 mast over the top of the pier but didn't want to count our chickens too soon.... Rounding the pier we were delighted to see a piece of pontoon perfectly sized for Emerald. Colin got her turned around, I jumped off the bow (a technique perfected in the box moorings in the Baltic last year) and we were on.

The forecast isn't looking great for the next few days so we'll probably stay here until maybe Monday. There's loads to do - I've already planned us a walk and bike ride! Colin is groaning  (Beer!! Pubs, beer!!skip)

2011: Around the UK

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