Emerald Tales

Currently in Portugal after 7 years in the Mediterranean

22 March 2024 | Las Palmas de Gran Canaria
01 March 2024 | Porto Santo
23 February 2024 | Porto Santo
22 January 2024 | Madeira
15 December 2023 | Porto Santo
13 October 2023 | Porto Santo
15 September 2023 | Porto Santo
09 August 2023 | Porto Santo, Madeira
28 July 2023 | Porto Santo, Madeira
23 June 2023 | Porto Santo
15 January 2023 | Porto Santo
15 September 2022 | Porto Santo
19 August 2022 | Porto Santo
29 July 2022 | Porto Santo, Madeira

Highs and Lows of our UK Circumnavigation via the Orkney Islands

05 October 2011 | Brandy Hole, River Crouch
Nichola / Scorchio!
Photo: Emerald settled in the mud

We are calling this the completion of our circumnavigation of the UK, which we've done in three stages. In 2009 we sailed from Brighton to Falmouth (and back). In 2010 we went from Brighton to the River Crouch before heading on to the Baltic, the Caledonian Canal and down the west coast to Falmouth and this year we've covered Falmouth to the River Crouch via the Orkney Islands. So, taking them all together we have gone right round the UK.

What follows are the scores on the door and highlights and lows of this year's trip.

Total distance travelled from Ruan Pontoon in the River Fal to Brandy Hole, River Crouch: 1711nm
Time spent away: 142 days
Split of motor-sailing to sailing: 70/30
Nights at anchor: 25
Nights on mooring: 16
Nights in harbours / marinas: 96
Night passages: 4 (5 nights at sea)
Distilleries visited: 11
• Our favourite distillery was Laphroaig where they were super-generous with their tastings even though we weren't doing a tour, closely followed by Lagavulin, both Islay distilleries.

Breakages:
• Bow water tank started leaking whilst we were waiting to leave Falmouth, we decided to not replace it and have managed ok with a couple of extra water cans.
• Stitching coming undone on canopy and stack pack (due to age) and a lazy jack fraying.
• Port navigation light stopped working - has since been replaced free of charge by Lopolight.
• Propane gas regulator - reached the end of its life, bought a new one in Northern Ireland.
• Power monitor giving incorrect readings mid-trip - hinting at possible problems with the batteries which turned out to be true. The house bank of batteries collapsed in our last week out so the power monitor is probably ok.

Favourite places and experiences - difficult to pick an overall favourite, most places had something good about them so here's a few that would be at the top of our list:
• Rona (an island off the east coast of Skye). Good holding in the anchorage, fantastic weather, beautiful setting, good walks, seafood and venison and a friendly welcome makes it our all-round top-tastic place.
• Loch a'Chadh-fi - meeting the Ridgways is definitely the highlight of our trip and a beautiful, sheltered anchorage to top it off.
• Learning more about Britain's ancient history from prehistoric to Nordic invaders to Lords of the Isles. In Orkney the days we cycled to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Skara Brea, Ring of Brodgar, Stones of Stenness and the Brodgar archeological dig were fascinating. The free tours provided by the ranger service are highly recommended. Seeing the full set of the Lewis Chessmen in Stornoway mainly for their comical faces.
• Gairloch - Despite potentially being crushed by the 40 tonnes steel boat that rafted to us. Cycling, sunshine, wild raspberries, soft sandy beaches, socialising with other boats, waterfalls, hiking in the hills, good value mooring rates and a friendly and helpful harbour master who got rid of the 40 tonner.
• Wildlife - otters, Irish hares, red deer, dolphins, seals, puffins, fulmar chicks, guillemots and many other seabirds.
• The scenery was beautiful even when the weather was bad - the ruggedness of Scotland, mountains straight out of the sea, hundreds of islands and clear, pollution free skies.
• Isle of Man - steam trains, electric trams to take you up a mountain, castles, giant water wheels and horse drawn trams. So much to see and do.
• Eyemouth and Wick - places we weren't expecting much from but stand out for being better than expected and for the friendliness of the welcome we received from the harbour masters there who do a great job.

Least favourite experiences/places:
• The amount of motor sailing we had to do compared to sailing time was very disappointing. When faced with spending more money in a marina because there wasn't a suitable anchorage nearby waiting for perfect weather or spending money on diesel so we could push on even if we had to motor was a regular decision we had to make. Given that we wanted to be in Essex before any autumn storms arrived we always had to be moving on.
• Stornoway - not that we didn't like the place, just a couple of things that marred our time there. A skanky harbour wall to tie up to (I believe they are extending the pontoons to take yachts over 12m) and a rude awakening in the middle of the night by an inconsiderate yacht crew.
• The weather - the wind seemed to be mostly from the wrong direction and we spent a lot of time hiding from deep low pressure systems due to the jet stream tracking south. Plus, our shorts have stayed packed away in their storage bags (until this week where the summer finally arrived in Britain!). On a positive we didn't get troubled by many midges.
• Not getting to see any live, traditional Scottish music. We always seemed to miss a gig by a few days when we arrived somewhere.
• Wildlife - didn't see any eagles or whales.
• A zero fish catch count for us this year (although we didn't try very hard).
• We love pubs but the price of beer was extortionate in some places, £3.70 a pint being the worst.
Comments
Vessel Name: Emerald
Vessel Make/Model: Kelly Peterson 44
Hailing Port: No fixed abode
Crew: Colin 'Skip' Wright, Nichola Wright
About: One from Northern Ireland, one from Yorkshire, UK
Extra: Emerald has been our home since 2004. We've sailed around the UK, the western Baltic and have spent 7 years in the Med. We're currently in Portugal, planning a refit. Lot's more information about us and the boat can be found at www.yachtemerald.com
Home Page: https://www.yachtemerald.com/
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