Drying out in Visby

The ARC team sailed out of Ronne on Saturday as planned, and I'm guessing around 20 boats went also, some sailing / motoring direct to Visby, others aiming to sail one day to the Swedish mainland, stop over night there, and complete the leg to our first Swedish port on the island of Gotland, on Sunday.

We elected to leave Ronne early Sunday and do the 200 miles in one go. We certainly made right the decision, as it was a brilliant fast passage for us.

For starters, the wind had changed round to blowing from the west. So unlike those who left Saturday, who had to beat their brains out against a northerly and use their engines when the wind died overnight, we reached off up Borrnholms pretty coastline fully powered up under plain sail.

We left Ronne around 0430 fully rugged up as it was raining, and watched the sun come up over the castle at Hammershus as we cleared the top of the island and out into the open sea. The waves were still coming from the north, but we were we able to run away deeper assuming our course aiming for the base of the Swedish Island of Orland, and smoked through the short sharp seas under Code 0 and full main. Wet, but fun.

The forecast was for building winds that would veer further south west to south during our 200 mile passage. And that's exactly what happened. By mid morning Sunday the wave direction had also switched to the west / south west, the rain had finally stopped, and we were surfing our way north west. It was quick. Exceeded 11 knots several times, and think we maybe averaged 8 knots, only slowing as the Orland southern tip got close.

Lost the use of the Code 0 about 90% of the way over when it got tangled in a gybe but by then we were seeing gusts over 30 knots, and it proved almost as fast under headsail and main as it was with the bigger sails. The sun came out mid arvo when we had a choice of sailing up inside the passage between Orlands long skinny island and the mainland, or staying outside. We chose the latter, took advantage of the short steep waves to surf in the final few miles around the sandbanks below Orlands southern tip, and then glided our way over relatively smooth water up Orlands eastern shore as night fell. Sailing really deep under main alone (nothing to pole out the headsail with) we still maintained 7/7.5 knots boatspeed, with the auto helm doing all the work.

Beef and ale and a glass of red scoffed late, then I took first watch and Sue took the second, as she gybed the boat and set up the headsail when we had got half way up the island. From that point we could on that other board, lay our destination of Visby in one straight line.

Great night sail with Jumbuck surging along at 8+ knots, autopilot still doing it all with us trimming sails as the winds changed. With twilight up until midnight and dawn light at 4 am, and never got 100% dark in between, and there was surprisingly little commercial traffic as we crossed the 100 miles of open water. Late the previous afternoon we had seen, and overtaken, two of the 'Sunday' fleet but it was our turn dawn Monday as we reached in towards Visby on Gotland, and saw the Norwegian 42 footer Capria charging up the Gotland coast at 9 knots. We were closing to meet with them about 20 miles below Visby, and from there to the port both boats continued to compete all the way in. They just beat us, maybe 500 metres ahead at the harbour entry, but lots of fun and it kept us focussed.

So what's Visby like? Very pretty island, a very pretty pumpy and chilled old town, seemingly stacked with bars filled with wealthy young tanned Swedes. A blend of St Tropez and Ibiza set in the Baltic Sea. Nice.

After berthing, tidying up, showering and sleeping, we wandered the steep narrow restaurant and bar packed streets, and bumped into the Norwegian crew in a trendy outdoor bar. That led to an invitation to join them for dinner in an equally trendy restaurant, and I'm still nursing the hangover this morning. I can remember staggering back to the boat in a downpour, to find everything on board all toasty warm. We had left the boat heater running to remove the last traces of dampness from the voyage, and I had forgotten just how efficient it is. Deep, deep sleep.

Today (Tuesday am) we took a guided walking tour around the town again under brilliant sunshine. Very informative. This arvo just lounging around chatting with other skippers and crew.

Tonight another dock BBQ party, with the need to quaff some significant alcohol. The limit we can take into Russia is 3 litres per person, including beer, so it's our duty to make sure boat stocks are reduced well before we get there. Tough, but I think manageable.

Tomorrow (Wednesday)) we are off early sailing 50 miles north to the uninhibited island of Gotska Sandon. The original plan was to spend time walking ashore, visit a seal sanctuary, and sleep the night anchored off its northern beach. Almost back to nature. But with a potential for westerly winds early next day, it could well be a rolly spot, so we might simply visit, then sail on, making directly for Tallinn which with westerlies forcast, could see us in by early Friday.

But as you know, when sailing it's not always possible to stick with a plan!