The Cabot Trail
03 August 2016
Jack has hired a car, and the four of us spent today on a long drive around the 300km Cabot Trail. This is a Nova Scotia "must do", and sweeps around the Cape Breton Highlands with spectacular views. We found time for a two hour walk along the Skyline Trail, where it's quite common to see moose, but we were out of luck.
An easy Week in Baddeck
24 July 2016 | Baddeck, The Bras D'Or, Cape Breton
Where is everyone? It's hard to believe this is high season. Our first night on leaving St Peters was spent at anchor in a harbour a mile wide, which we shared with just two other yachts. We are now in Baddeck, the main town in the Bras D'Or, famous as the home of Alexander Graham Bell. We have taken one of the dozen mooring buoys provided by the marina and plan to spend a while here. This cute lighthouse is on the island across from the town, giving us good shelter. Baddeck is small but has everything we need. The town is proud of it's Celtic heritage, but we have had enough of the bagpipe player on the end of the pier! The water is only half as salty as the ocean, and warm enough for a daily swim. A steady trickle of yachts come and go, of all nationalities, many on their way to Newfoundland.
Entering the Bras D'Or
20 July 2016 | St Peter's Canal, Brad D'Or
St Peter's Canal connects the Bras D'Or Lakes to the Atlantic, and is National Historic Site. It is calm and beautiful now, but has had a long and disruptive history. The area had long been known to the M'kmaq people, who carried their canoes over the isthmus. In 1630 French merchants arrived and built a small fort, lead by Nicholas Denys who traded furs peacefully with the Indians.He built a log roll-over road so bigger boats could be dragged across. A town developed as a major trading centre, but the fort and settlement were destroyed by the British in 1758. The British did not treat the M'kmaq well. However, the settlement and volume of shipping grew and in 1854, work on the canal began. It took 15 years.
Now only pleasure boats pass through, and locks control the 1.4 meter tidal drop.
Sailing in Company
18 July 2016 | Fishermans Harbour, County Harbour, Eastern Shore, NS
In 2013 we were anchored off an island in Croatia when Windleblo sailed in. This was how we first met Jack and Jocelyn, on Yarona's baby sister, a Hallberg Rassy 40. They had bought her three years previously in Sweden and were sailing her back to the US. Last year our paths crossed again in Camden, Maine. Windleblo spent the winter in Maine, but with an earlier start they have caught us up and we are spending a few days sailing north east together, along with their friend Karolina.
The Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia is a very empty and lonely place, and we are glad of the company. We have three days sailing of about 50 miles each to reach Cape Breton. For two days we have not seen another yacht. And this is a fine weekend in July! The photo shows them about to anchor in County Harbour. Although it is a lonely shore, we are are spoilt for a choice of sheltered anchorages.
Heading North at Last
16 July 2016
At last, we are on our way to Cape Breton and the Bras D'or Lakes. This is our first night at anchor, tucked behind an island in Halifax Harbour; hard to believe it can be so peaceful only three miles from Downtown. yesterday Karolina and I visited Pier 21, the excellent Museum of Immigration. Several million people have arrived in this harbour in their quest for a better life.
13 July 2016 | Halifax Waterfront
By good luck rather than planning, we are here for Halifax Jazz Festival. Oddly, most of the main acts are anything but Jazz. Tonight we are off to church to see Julia Holter who 'wanders the luminal space between the conscious and the subconscious...'. Despite this, the Guardian gave her last album a 5* review, so here's hoping for a good evening. On a more prosaic note, we have had a big spend at Pete's Fine Foods- good cheese! Chorizo and pancetta! Frank Coopers Marmalade! The cupboards are well stocked before we head for Cape Breton, and the wind looks good and settled from Friday.
Northwest Arm, Halifax
12 July 2016
The Squadron is tucked up a fork in the harbour, and has an active junior development programme. Today is a much better day, and the kids were all out having fun in the dinghies. We are about to motor round to the main city waterfront, where a few floating pontoons have recently been introduced alongside the old wharves to attract visiting yachts. The price is very reasonable for a city centre berth.
Update on the St Pierre race- of the sixteen boats that started, four turned back, one dismasted. Not a good year.
The Halifax to St Pierre Race
10 July 2016 | Halifax
It's time for a big city experience. The weather is awful; cold, grey and wet. Yesterday we left Prospect Cove and motored most of the way to Halifax. The wind was on the nose along the coast, and we just couldn't be bothered to short tack.
We are staying on a mooring at the oldest yacht club in N America, the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron. The 'Sqadron', as it is called locally, hosts a biennial race to the French island of St Pierre. We watched the start from the city Riverside boardwalk, and one of these three Open 60s will certainly be the first to finish. They are in for a rough two days.
The people of Nova Scotia are incredibly friendly and helpful, no less so here in the city. 'The folks here- the're the best!' For some reason, they are known as 'Blue Noses'.
Tomorrow, the Mall beckons, and a huge provisioning shop before we continue east.
We are moored next to another British yacht, quite a rarity round here, and are looking forward to swapping tales with Nerys and Rob over a drink this evening.
07 July 2016
We are having a few days on a mooring buoy in this very sheltered cove four miles in from the ocean. This was kindly offered to us by a fellow OCC member, and gives us chance to relax at last and give Yarona a good clean and tidy. There is a small grocery store but nothing else ashore, but we have launched the bikes for the first time this year and cycled back to the small village of Prospect on the rocky shore. No cafe, alas! We are also having an enforced digital detox, and a break from the political chaos back in the UK.
29 June 2016 | Gold River, Mahone Bay
We are still here in Gold River. We have boatyard fever, not cabin fever. The latest delay has been due to Barrie's battle with the gearbox on the mast that furls the mainsail. After baking some parts in the oven and freezing others in the marina's icebox, it all went back together today. We hope to be off at last later tomorrow for a short sail to a quiet anchorage at the entrance to this bay. Plenty of boats have been launched in the last few days, including this beauty.
Launched at Last
21 June 2016 | Gold River Marina
It's taken three weeks and a lot of trauma to get Yarona back in the water. With a deep keel she can only be launched here at high tide, which meant an 0600 start this morning. This was the first time the mast had been down since she was re-rigged in Italy, and despite the crane in the yard being barely high enough, re-stepping went smoothly. It's good to be back in the water. Note how shiny she is after Barrie's hard work with the buffer! She's an absolute tip inside however, so tomorrow's main job is to tidy up and clean, in addition to the small matter of aligning the mast!
Still on the hard...
13 June 2016
We are slowly moving forward. It's a couple of days since I took this photo, and the rudder is still dropped into a big hole. The shrink wrap is off however, and Barrie is making the most of some dry weather to polish Yarona. We hope to launch on Friday. Tonight we are driving to Lunenburg to have dinner with friends Jack and Jocelyn, who are there on Windleblo. We are looking forward to company, and being on a boat actually floating in the water!
Yesterday we returned the hire car to the airport, and called in to the main customs office in Halifax. The officer cheerfully gave us a two month extension, which was a big relief.
07 June 2016
Barrie took this lovely shot at the bottom of our drive at 07.00 as he left for a long day working on Yarona. I was still in bed... He comes back to the cottage for coffee and I usually go back with him for a few hours cleaning and polishing. This blog is not very exciting, nor is life! It will get better... C
Back in Nova Scotia
04 June 2016 | Chester Basin
The blog fizzled out last summer- I will do better this year! Last October we left Yarona on the hard at Gold River Marina, Nova Scotia, and flew back to the UK. The bay here can ice up, so everything comes out of the water, even the pontoons! But it was a mild winter, and we were relieved to find all was well on our return last weekend, with Yarona dry and smelling sweet. Life on the hard is no fun, so we are spending two weeks in this delightful cottage. Barrie is working his way through a long list of jobs, and I'm having quite a lazy week catching up on admin.
By the end of June we hope to be heading north to the Bras D'Or Lakes, but I'll post more about the work on Yarona before then.
Newport - Ocean Drive by Bike
04 June 2015
Newport is a great place! Sailing, old boats, boat building schools, seafood, shops, old historic houses, farmers markets, cafes, mostly nice weather, beautiful scenery, friendly people, ..... I could go on. Yes we like it here and are have a great time. Today was a bike ride along Ocean Drive.
26 April 2015 | Oualie Beach, Nevis
This morning we motored just two miles to the north of Nevis, to try to escape the rolling off Pinney's Beach. It was so bad last night I had to put the fiddles on the stove to cook, and non-slip mats on the table. We are now in a shallow bay with less than a metre under the keel, but it is more sheltered! There is a decent dinghy dock here (a rare occurrence lately) and we only had to walk 20 metres to this cute restaurant, which provided us with a decent burger and ice cold Carrib on tap. Not quite the Golden Rock, but still pretty good.
All a bit Zen
25 April 2015 | Nevis
Nevis is small and friendly, and has avoided large scale development. Several old plantation estates have been turned into boutique hotels. We caught a local bus today to Golden Rock Inn. The stone ruins of an old plantation have been restored to provide the dining area, and the gardens are a delight, hiding a selection of simple wooden bungalows acting as the bedrooms for the inn. We filled an hour before lunch with a walk round the grounds, and a swim in the pool which we had to ourselves. Lobster sandwich for lunch, with this view.
A Downwind Sail
23 April 2015 | Nevis
We were off at dawn today for another long open-water passage, to the small island of Nevis. The wind was a classic trade wind: easterly, behind us, and about 15-20 knots all the way, so we set the Big Blue Sail for the first time since the Atlantic crossing, and enjoyed the ride.
22 April 2015 | English Harbour, Antigua
Nelson's Dockyard is a fully restored and working Georgian dockyard, with several boat-related businesses and a handful of excellent bars and restaurants. Nelson didn't enjoy his time here. He refused to turn a blind eye to trading with ships of the newly independent USA, insisting that only British ships called into Antigua. This made him very unpopular with the wealthy planters. An excellent small museum gives a good feeling for what life was like here in the 17th & 18th centuries.
20 April 2015 | Freeman Bay, Antigua
We haven't posted a photo of any sea creatures for a while, so here is a lovely one. The water is really clear here in Freeman Bay, and the rocks on shore are a good snorkelling distance from where Yarona is anchored.