03/31/2009, Gulf of Aqaba
Our friend Derek wrote us recently about an Arab expression that he learned from his father who spent some time in Egypt. Derek's father roughly translated Sham El-Nessim as meaning "the smell of the breeze". He remembers his father telling him that this was the name of spring breezes that were the "signal" for those with money to move to their seaside homes near Alexandria to escape the heat of the summer in Cairo. I did a little research on the internet and found out that Sham El-Nessim is in fact a festival signifying the arrival of spring and is a uniquely Egyptian tradition practiced since the days of the Pharaohs.
Since Derek's email, the expression has been on my mind. For lately there has been the scent of something warm and sultry in the air. Of course the real proof of spring came at the beginning of March with our first Shirav. While I go on about smelling the breeze many of you are asking "What about that new engine?" Rest assured that we've made good progress.
Throughout February Manny did last minute adjustments to the new engine and worked on the alignment. Then one evening when I arrived at the boat I found him ready to start the engine. The nanni diesel turned over at the click of the switch. Manny looked at me and said "Is there less noise?" Our old Ruggerini engine shook like a Parkinson patient and was so loud conversation was impossible. I called up to Manny from my place in the galley and said "What do you think? We're talking!" And then a huge smile broke out on his face as he also realized the difference.
Later that week we asked our friend Pedro to join us as we set out for a trial sail. After six months at the dock Yofy's bottom sported more than her usual marine growth, but we managed to make way. It was a day of light winds and we were happy to motor down the Gulf. Manny eagerly read off knots from our GPS readings and both of us kept exclaiming about the speed we were making - "even with a foul bottom!" Although I'm sure Pedro grew a little tired of our fixation on speed over ground, I do have to say that we are delighted with the extra push this new engine is giving us.
Midway through our day we found ourselves well away from land. We turned off the engine and lay adrift while I served some lunch. The sun shone and a
light breeze played over the water as we ate. Off in the distance, the outline of Egypt's Sinai coast beckoned. We raised a glass to toast the end of one long project.
Over the next few weeks we did several more day sails, checking the engine against stronger winds and waves. Each time we returned dockside, Manny climbed in the engine room to check for leaks or tweak the alignment. After years of sailing with a questionable engine, we needed more than just a little assurance that this new diesel was in good running condition.
While Manny focused on the engine, I gave a light sand and three coats of cetol to all of Yofy's brightwork. In the beginning we kept a close eye on the durability of varnish, teak oil and other recommended products and soon found that in this climate cetol stands the test. So, a few years ago, I sanded all the brightwork down to wood and applied five coats of cetol. In any other climate, I would only need to reapply one new coat each year, but Eilat's strong sun, sandy winds and salty air eat through several coats a year.
As our hours of daylight slowly lengthened, Manny became determined to clean Yofy's bottom. He dug through our lockers unearthing his scuba gear and waited for the next mild day. Last Saturday he filled his air tank, took a long exhale and zipped into his wetsuit. Grabbing a plastic scrapper, he stepped overboard and set to work. Half an hour later he surfaced covered in bits of barnacle, looked at me and said "You know, we really do have to haul out soon."
After a good wash and a chance to warm up in the sun, Manny was ready to do a test sail. There is something about guys and performance. He just had to see if Yofy would make another half a knot under power with a clean bottom. Within half an hour we were back out on the water glued to the GPS. Excitement mounting we watched the numbers climb until Yofy was making 5.9 knots under power. Manny looked at me and grinned. "Just imagine what she'll do after haul out!"
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January came in with a blast, bringing cold temperatures and grey skies. For two weeks we hunkered down, pulling warm clothes out of storage and preparing for some winter weather. Then the sun came out, temperatures rose ten degrees and we've had mild weather ever since. While it feels like spring, nobody is quite sure whether to take this mild spell seriously or not.
Things change quickly in the Middle East. One day it is sunny and mild and the next it is winter. One evening we are chatting with friends about the tense political situation between Gaza and Israel and the next morning our radio says we are at war. So it is that while I have been writing about avoiding piracy in the Red Sea, we have survived another war, and done a major refit to Yofy's engine room.
All this time Yofy has been tied snuggly to her dock. Before we could install the new Nanni diesel, we had to find suitable damper and adaptor plates; parts which connect the engine to the transmission. Throughout October and November I scoured the internet searching for a suitable supplier. Each day Manny would fume at the lack of responses to my emails and in the end it took over 30 emails to various websites until we unearthed two good sources. Our search was so long and so frustrating that I am happy to post here the names of two very patient suppliers who gave us excellent service. One is Waterway Power center in the USA . The other is Lancing Marine in the UK .
While I held fort on the internet, Manny painted the engine room, installed an air conditioning system and an extra bilge pump, rewired all the gages and moved the junction box, extended the engine beds and engine mounts and changed the water intake and filter. Each evening I would walk down to Yofy and find Manny hunkered down in the engine compartment busy at one of the jobs.
In November, we took a few days break to travel to the Galil in the north of Israel. We had a wonderful time forgetting about engines, bilges and wiring. One day we drove to the village of Turan to buy our years supply of olive oil. We found the village press nestled in an olive grove. Goats grazed the land next to the parking area reaching high up in the trees to catch tender young leaves. Inside various locals were bringing in yesterdays olive harvest for pressing. We watched the olives tumble onto the little conveyor belt and into the macerators. The oil from those olives was a deep green colour and poured thick like honey into our waiting jerry cans. Now Yofy's special temperature controlled wine locker also holds four gallons of cold pressed virgin olive oil.
Just in time for Christmas our damper and adapter plates arrived and Manny began installing them. Next, he welded a cart to roll the Nanni diesel along the dock and another temporary frame which would serve as a landing site for the engine when it was lowered inside our cabin. Manny's plan was to slide the engine onto her mounts from this temporary frame. Finally at the end of December, on the new moon flood tide the new Nanni diesel was winched into place.
Throughout January Manny was busy aligning the engine, modifying the exhaust and changing the cable attachments. As I write, he is once again in the engine compartment doing what we hope is the last adjustments to the engine alignment. I have learned that there are so many different details to attend to when you change an engine on a sailboat. Since the summer, I have watched countless numbers of times as Manny heads up to Amnon's shop to tool a part that he can't get in town. Once again, I am thankful for his good technical skills.
Nothing shows how long a boat has been stationary than the marine growth on her bottom. By now Yofy sports a thick crust of barnacles and daily one of us questions if she will actually be able to move out of her slip for a sail trial. Good thing we now have a powerful diesel that can take the challenge!
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12/17/2008, Gulf of Aqaba
With piracy reports increasing each month, many boats in the Indian Ocean are reconsidering cruising itineraries and giving the Red Sea a pass this winter. Yet, some boats in the Mediterranean looking for a place to winter will still consider exploring the northern reaches of the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aqaba. For first time visitors to the area this decision often takes more than a little courage. They will be faced with third world hygiene, coral reefs and vague weather reports. One can easily understand their trepidation. Yet those that do choose to face the challenges are rewarded with quiet anchorages, fantastic snorkeling and diving and the chance to explore some fascinating countries.
Just think in a matter of a couple of hundred sea miles one can tie up at a different marina and explore the Egyptian pyramids, spend Christmas in Jerusalem and visit Dead Sea in Israel or the wander through the spectacular ruins at Petra in Jordan. With a little planning they can have the winter of a lifetime.
Normally these boats leave from either Greece or Turkey in October and sail to Port Said, Egypt. In a matter of a day or two they will leave behind the facilities of western marinas, familiar languages and cultures and brace themselves for their first big hurdle the Suez Canal. While there are good pilot books and fairly up to date information on canal procedures a first transit can be a little mind boggling. So let me get down to some of the unsaid basics.
Baksheesh. Where I come from this is called a bribe and many sailors get downright furious at the outright normalcy of baksheesh in Egypt. Our advice is to be prepared in advance. Egypt is a third world country and poverty is extreme. People who work in the canal are very privileged to have the job, but they still earn less a month than what many westerns earn in a day. Anybody who approaches your boat for even the smallest request, like a bread delivery, will demand baksheesh and you may run into baksheesh outside of the canal too.
Mostly the Egyptians want cocoa cola, Marlboro cigarettes and American dollars, but you can be creative too. Manny and I have a locker that we keep for baksheesh. We toss in cheap baseball caps and T-shirts that we get as free handouts from supermarkets or tool manufacturers. One local skipper carried a dozen cheap baseball caps with him and was the hit of year with canal workers. Other skippers have given cheap individually wrapped chocolates and wafers. Whatever else you carry, you will have to carry American dollars for your pilot. Look for one dollar denominations and carry a wad of them. A bundle of dollars will be more impressive than a ten dollar bill. Prepare your baksheesh in advance. Pre-bag chocolates, cola cans etc for each person. Pre-count your dollars and keep them in your hand moments before the pilot is due to depart. Give baksheesh over at the very last minute or you will be asked for more.
Try to go with the flow. Time takes on a whole new meaning in Egypt and Jordan. Your canal transit may be slowed down by a local holiday that you are totally unprepared for. Big ships will take precedent and any warships passing through the canal will close the canal for up to a day or more. Arrangements you have made by email may go unheeded. Your cruising itinerary needs to be flexible.
While it is a good idea to send an email in advance to your canal agency of choice with ETA and a request for a pilot, you probably won't get a reply. This is true for any emails you will send through your cruise in the Red Sea. It doesn't mean that your email wasn't received, more likely there isn't anybody on hand with the English skills to answer you.
Remember that all vegetables must be bleach washed in Egypt and be careful eating out. Provisioning is possible, but we generally try to stock up well in advance.
Once through the Suez Canal, you enter the Gulf of Suez where strong northerlies are the norm. Chances are you will have an exhilarating run down to the strait of Suez and won't need to anchor along the way. Those that do choose to anchor must remember that they are now in reef strewn waters. Entering an anchorage for the first time at night is not recommended and no matter how good your depth sounder and chart plotter a sharp lookout is important. We know of several boats that have gone aground on coral heads on this passage.
While anchoring in Egypt one faces another challenge. For reasons not made clear, Egyptian authorities cannot seem to agree on anchoring regulations. One week it is permissible to anchor in El Tor and the next you are being chased out as soon as your hook goes down. When you moor at Dahab, sometimes you can go ashore, while at other times this is strictly forbidden. We have learned to always have a plan B and to try and be unobtrusive. Tuck yourself away, not too close to land and keep the noise levels down and often you will be left alone. However, there is one area in Egypt where anchoring is strictly forbidden. Here is a map of the area:
nature reserve
At some point in your cruise, you will be faced with beating straight into headwinds. We know the popular adage, but when sailing the Red Sea you will not have any choice. A good rig and a strong engine is a must. We usually prefer to tack up the Gulf of Aqaba even if this means changing tack every half an hour, but on the Gulf of Suez with oil rigs and heavy ship traffic, we motor sail.
After a heavy beat most sailors are glad to pull into a marina for at least one night. Both Egypt and Jordan have built marina complexes that cater to mega yachts as well as smaller vessels. While these marinas may carry all the amenities, they are pricey. Having said that, these marinas are gaining popularity among sailors looking for a comfortable spot to spend a mild winter. Two such marinas in Egypt are
Abu Tig and further south the developing marina of Port Ghalib
While the winters in the Red Sea are normally windy, sailors who choose to tack north to the Gulf of Suez will be pleasantly surprised by moderate winds and calmer seas. In the past, sailors were required to do clearance at Travco Marina in Sharm El Sheikh but recently the Taba Heights Marina at Ras Hamira has opened and is also a port for clearance. We advise choosing the Taba Heights marina and taking time to visit the Sinai coast of Egypt along the way.
Be aware that from this point anchoring and diving from your boat are strictly forbidden. This is true for the entire Gulf of Aqaba. Moorings are available in Dahab which you can tie off for the night. Dahab has terrific dive sites, so if you do want to dive, try to go ashore to one of the many dive clubs and book a guided dive there. Nueiba, Ras Hamira, the Firord and Pharaoh's Island all have moorings as well but you will not be allowed to stay overnight. Going ashore is only permitted at Pharos Island where a mooring fee is demanded.
If you choose to clear out of Egypt at Taba Heights Marina be sure to email them in advance with your ETA or you can expect a long wait before officials show up. While your email is important, be aware that you most probably won't get a confirmation.
Now you will have a choice. From Taba Heights you can choose to visit either Jordan or Israel. Here too sending an email in advance is a good idea. In Jordan you have the choice of two good marinas. Tala Bay Marina and Resort khabujaber@talabay.jo VHF Channel 16, 88 is a fairly new marina in a development . It offers excellent facilities catering to mega yachts while still welcoming cruising sailors. The Royal Jordan Yacht Club rycj@wanadoo.jo VHF Channel 16, 67 situated in the heart of Aqaba is a moderately priced marina with good facilities and even a travel lift for hauling out smaller yachts
Manny and I visited the Royal Jordan Yacht Club last June and were truly impressed by the warm welcome and lovely atmosphere at the marina. Stay tuned for an update on this marina because you can be sure we'll be back!
Both of these marinas are safe and secure places to leave your boat to travel inland. Petra is a day trip away and all excursions can be arranged at the marina office. Day sails along the coast are possible with several mooring buoys available for a reasonable fee. Fishing and diving from your boat are forbidden. Guided dives may be arranged from one of the dive clubs.
After exploring Egypt and Jordan, cruising sailors are always astonished to arrive in Israel for the first time. Suddenly you are whisked away from the east and firmly planted in the west...sort of. Eilat's marina offers berthing for visiting yachts with electric and potable water at the dock. Shower and toilet facilities are poor. Let it just be said that we choose to use our onboard facilities. Laundromats are close by as well as good supermarkets. Marine supplies may be available in town or can be ordered from Tel Aviv. Diving and fishing from your boat are permissible in Israeli waters. Several moorings are available along the Israeli coast and it is permissible to overnight on the moorings although during the busy tourist season you may be asked to share the mooring with a charter boat.
Often cruising boats that come down to the Red Sea for the winter stay longer than intended. One such couple is Christine and Cornelius on Gymnos Nixe who have spent the last four or five years cruising around the Gulf of Aqaba. As teachers they enjoy several good vacations throughout the year which they use to stay on Gymnos Nixe and slowly explore all the region has to offer. Cornelius says it is the fantastic diving coupled with year round sailing that keeps them here.
Whatever the reason, the northern reaches of the Red Sea are an increasingly popular cruising destination.
Whether you are on the water or armchair cruising this winter, we wish you a wonderful holiday season. May this be a time of peace, joy and goodwill to all people.
Robyn and Manny
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Thanks.
