09/29/2009, Neiafu Harbor, Vava'u, Tonga
Zen and the Burgess Family are 100% fine after experiencing a tsunami today. There was a mid-ocean earthquake that occurred near American Samoa this morning. At 8:15a Tonga time a VHF radio security-security alert was given to all boats in the Tongan waters. The tsunami would be affecting the Kingdom of Tonga for the next 2 hours while reverberating waves came through the area. Neiafu Harbor is 100 feet deep. There are 50 sailboats on moorings and a few on anchor. During the tsunami we saw the water depth go from 100 feet to 83 feet and then back up to 100 feet in the period of about 1 hour. In other outer islands there was radio chatter announcing fishing boats tossed onto land, underwater reefs being temporarily exposed, and currents rushing in and out. Overall, it seems Tonga has come through OK. Sadly, American Samoa does not report the same, cars are out to sea, school buses turned over, and people are missing. Fortunately, all our cruising friends in those areas have emailed their health and well-being. Tommy, Cammi, Cole and I appreciate all of you who have emailed, radio'd and called to check on our safety. Who ever said that 'Pacific' means 'peaceful'??
|
Comments [13]
09/22/2009, Maninita Island, Vava'u Group, Kingdom of Tonga
For a week or so, we've hopped from anchorage to anchorage. Some are as little as 5 miles apart, while others are a whopping 10 miles. Grin. Most of the islands are protected by reefs, so waves are not really a factor. Cruisers call one another after the morning VHF net/news and make plans to meet at one of the many outer islands. When you finally run out of sugar, eggs or toilet paper, heaven forbid, it's only a short sail back into town to restock the necessities. Everyone is now either waiting to sail to Australia, via Fiji, or going direct to New Zealand. The conversations over pot lucks, beach combing and snorkel sessions always lead to the weather systems and potential opportunities to make a run for it. We've always used Commanders weather routers, a team in the US who help boaters get from place to place, based on their professional interpretation of weather patterns. October 4th is the earliest we'll be able to set sail to N-Zed. Zen is scheduled to have a little spa treatment in Whangarei, NZ. Yes, she'll get all gussied up before being shipped back to Florida via Dockwise Yacht Transport. So far, there's about 4 boats from our 2009 fleet joining us on the transport ship out of Auckland.
Today, after having spent 3 days with a terrific gang in Vaka'eitu, s/v Dosia and Zen took off for Maninita Island, the southern-most island in the Vava'u Group. It was all too reminiscent of the Aitutaki entrance with reefs all around and the potential of needing a stern anchor. Zen got in first, set the hook, and after glancing around, wondered if it might be easier to just raft Dosia to us. Out came the lines and fenders. As Dosia entered the pass and saw us lined with fenders, Margie yells, "Sleepover!!" while Drew manages a perfect parallel parking job. Looking at the two dissimilar boats tied to one other, we knew the swell would roll us into one another later in the evening. They untied and safely anchored about 250 feet away. This little lagoon anchorage is big enough for only two or three boats at the most. To the east of Maninita is Nuie, about 230 miles away. To the west is Fiji at about 450 miles. In between is open Pacific Ocean...reef anchorages and the brilliant protection they offer sailors is still amazing to me.
Food is being eaten at an alarming rate. NZ customs officials are notorious for incinerating all food items visiting yachts carry into their protected waters. Cruisers know it's smarter to enter N-Zed with little to no food. Tonight we got rid of some Mexican items. Margie and Drew came bearing salad and chili. Add a few tortilla chips, salsa, dessert and voila, dinner is served. Last night was pot luck on Karma. There was hardly any room for plates, Krista's table was covered with buffet items. The conversations were equally rich: Drew had a very close encounter with a calf and mama whale under 15 feet away while snorkeling a reef. Tonight, after circumnavigating our island by foot, the 6 of us watched some classic comedy; "Bill Cosby - Himself". Laughter was loud, the painted sunset sky was our backdrop and the rolling waves over the reef giggled continuously around us. That's life while "killing time" before a passage.
|
09/14/2009, Neiafu, Vava'u Island, Kingdom of Tonga
The drums are knockin' out a beat at a heart stopping rate, while the fire dancer, only a couple of arm lengths away, is eating, twirling and throwing the blazing fire in rhythm to the percussion. Add two beautiful local dancing girls, a menu as long as your leg, about 40 friends, gorgeous fresh flowers and greenery, a traditional band, disco dancing, a perfect sunset, plus a gaggle of children. And let's not forget the cakes, cakes and more cakes! That was my birthday party in Neiafu, Vava'u, Tonga. Tommy came up with the entertainment ideas, décor and menu, but Sandy and Kathy from the Giggling Whale Restaurant executed it flawlessly, gathering together local Tongans, Steve the cake specialist from Crow's Nest Café, and a decorating committee, aka Suzanne (s/v Carinthia) and Lauren (s/v Wayward Wind). They also entertained the kids by inviting them to paint the bathroom walls with all our boat names and logos. So, even when the party ended, our memory of the night will continue through the colorful, playful walls of the loo!
The evening was filled with fun and dancing, but Krista from m/v Karma planned her own gift for me. She and Richard dinghied around, gathering me and many of my boat buddies for a surprise girls brunch. We arrived, all dolled up in dresses and sarongs, to the Crow's Nest Café, where Tess and Steve filled us with a delicious brunch and we filled each other with friendship. Moving around the table of 10, everyone answered what they considered to be the "best and worst" of cruising. The "Worsts" ranged from seasickness and teary goodbyes when our paths diverge, while the "Bests" were filled with culture, family bonding and personal growth. Each person divulged what the next year held for them, sharing dreams and plans. In the end, it was over 4 hours of girl-time, with everyone promising to do this again in New Zealand at a spa, zoo or city café!
Many of my birthdays are spent in beautiful anchorages while cruising. Since my last birthday, which was celebrated in Grenada, Zen has logged over 7,000 nautical miles. Cole asked of all my birthdays which one ranked as my favorite. There's too many fond memories, thanks to my parents and a joyous childhood, while the adult years are credited to my very special husband. Thank you to everyone who celebrated my day this year, it was unique, special and very, very memorable and certainly one of the very best! Mille Grazie!
|
