Uncle Bob was here
28 February 2020
Lisa and I are blessed to have friends and family visit us in the remote and beautiful places we sail. My brother, Bob, visited Uproar for the first time in Fakarava. Bob is my only sibling, 1 ½ years older. We shared a lot of experiences growing up.
Bob and I sailed together as kids but it didn't become the passion for him that it is for me. Bob would visit in Milwaukee and race with us on Veloce and Uproar. He also crewed on some fine boats on Lake St. Claire near his home in Michigan. The year before we sailed away from Milwaukee, Bob crewed on Uproar for the Queen's Cup race, a night race across Lake Michigan. The first place trophy is displayed in Bob's home.
Work and family took precedence and Bob didn't manage to get away and join us in the Bahamas or Caribbean. I invited Bob to sail with me while Lisa was away in Thailand and he made the long journey to the beautiful atoll of Fakarava, French Polynesia. When I introduced “mon friere, Robert” to Liza in Hirifa, she said, “Wow, is he white!”
We went to all the great spots in Fakarava and journeyed to Toau for a visit to Gaston and Valentine. Fakarava South Pass, Tetamanu, is my favorite place in all of our travels to go snorkeling. Bob loved it too. Like us, he marveled at the welcoming and friendliness of the Polynesians.
I could continue about all we saw and did but it was the long evenings where we just sat and talked that I cherish from his visit. Bob announced he would like to write a book about his experiences at Baskin Robbins ice cream store, his first job. Bob worked at Mr. Whipp's store, Town and Country, and I worked at Mrs. Whipp's store, Dorthy Lane. Bob's store was much busier and sometimes I worked there too. Mrs. Whipp allowed us to eat all we wanted, not so at Mr. Whipp's store.
Bob started recording the incidents we remembered in a composition book I gave him. We laughed hysterically about some of the antics we and our co-workers performed. One guy was bragging about the hot date he had that night. We soaked his jeans, tied them in knots and threw them in the deep freezer. He had to go on his date wearing ice cream stained white pants! Lots more to come when the book is finished.
We talked about our kids, grandchildren and reminisced about growing up. There is something about the softness of being at sea, under a star-filled sky that lets one open up. Thanks for sharing with me, Bob.
27 February 2020
Uproar sipped diesel like a virgin sips beer on a first date!
My passage from Fakarava to Tahiti turned out to be just a motorboat ride. Still, it was 250 miles of open ocean and my first solo passage of this length. Wind was very light or non-existent as forecast. That also meant the seas were pretty flat. There was a swell from the south that was impressively large to view, about 2 meters. But it had such a long period between swells, I could not even feel Uproar undulating with the passage of the crests. There was a little roll from leftover wind chop but not bad!
That left the passage up to Dr Diesel's fantastic Yanmar 4JH2E, 50 hp. And it ran perfectly for the 50 hours at 5 knots. This engine is 25 years old and never misses a beat. Knock on wood, I have not had to replace or repair any part of this engine in the 10 years we have owned Uproar.
Back to fuel economy, Uproar got 10 nautical miles/gallon on the passage. That's about 11 MPG on land. Not great for a car or truck but Uproar weighs 22,000 pounds! We used to own a 1973 Cadillac Fleetwood stretch limo that got 11 MPG, city or highway. And it did need some tlc to keep it running.
Thanks to technology, I got plenty of sleep too. Radar and AIS (radio ship collision avoidance system) gave me a clear view of who was out there. I encountered only one boat. AIS accurately told me the closest point of approach was 2 miles, no worry. Our Raymarine chart plotter transmitted the screen via wifi to my Samsung tablet. I could lie in bed and watch the instruments for traffic. I slept an hour or two at a time, would wake up and take a look and go back to sleep.
But remind me not to buy a powerboat for cruising! With wind in the sails, Uproar is held steady in the wind chop. With no sails up she rolls a bit. Again this was not bad but I'm used to a different ride. Plus, the drone of the diesel drowns out the delightful hiss and gurgle of wind and waves.
10 February 2020
Living aboard a sailboat does involve sailing. This is somewhat overlooked as many cruisers live on a sailboat to get to where they want to visit. But we love sailing! Sailing up and down the east side of Fakarava is perhaps my favorite sailboat ride in the world.
Imagine a sailboat ride in 8 to 15 knots of wind, mostly reaching but sometimes a tight fetch or spinnaker, broad reach. The water is that mythical blue, temperature low-80s, the shoreline is filled with palm trees and white sand beaches. Waves are only about 3 inches high as we are sailing in the lee of land. The ride goes for 30 miles from Rotoava to Hirifa. We can stop anywhere and anchor near shore where no one lives for many miles. Uproar just glides along, at times we can't even feel that we are moving except for the quiet, hiss of our wake. Sailing just doesn't get any better.
Rotoava is the main town with several hundred people and three grocery stores. Hirifa is a motu with extensive, white sand spits where only 4 people and a lot of pigs live. There are a few pearl farms closer to Rotoava and some nice vacation compounds in the area. But a few miles south of Rotoava there isn't much in the way of civilization.
Fakarava is about 35 miles long and 14 miles wide, almost exactly the size and shape of Lake Winnebago in Wisconsin. Lake Winnebago is quite shallow, averaging under 15 feet. The lagoon surrounding Fakarava probably averages 80 feet deep BUT, there are coral reefs inside the lagoon, everywhere. Any one of them is capable of ripping the bottom out of Uproar! There are some marked channels but “bombies” are perilously close to the channel. The rest of the lagoon is not surveyed for depth. We have to be watching whenever we sail outside the channel.
The extensive coral formations are teaming with fish. Jacques Cousteau said the highest concentration of fish he has ever seen is in the Tuamotus. Snorkeling the reefs and the south pass through the reef rank as our favorite snorkeling sites of any place we have visited.
Don from Huakai, took a Google Earth shot of Fakarava and marked the bombies with waypoints. We loaded these hazards into our chart plotter. Our chart plotter also shows all of our previous tracks. We know if we just follow the previous track, we will be safe. We no longer have to keep watch when we make this passage. It is a relaxing, beautiful and refreshing ride.
Uproar is a performance oriented boat. She was designed by Bruce Farr as a race boat but with comfortable living quarters. We have high tech, composite sails and just love the performance feel when Uproar is sailing in the groove or sweet spot. Sailing this passage, in flat water, best shows Uproar sailing at her finest.
Perfect conditions, beautiful scenery and the boat we love to sail. Sailing the east shore of Fakarava combines the best of sailing and fills our hearts on every passage.
Geology lesson on atolls:
Fakarava is an atoll in the Tuamotus, the Dangerous Archipelago. This area was avoided by mariners until GPS made navigating much safer. These atolls are ancient volcanic islands without the island. The islands slowly sunk over millions of years due to tectonic plates moving around under them. Coral reefs grew continually while the island sunk. Now all that is left is the coral ring surrounding the lagoon. Some of the coral reefs have built up enough to be land and some are submerged. The land is called motu. The east motus of Fakarava are extensive and have about 10 miles of road. At most the motu is ¼ mile wide and only about 20 feet above sea level. But the motu has a barrier reef on the ocean side. This shallow, barrier reef protects the motus from storm damage.
French Polynesia's newest island group is Marquesas. These islands, like Hawaii, are not old enough to have extensive coral reefs surrounding them. Next oldest are the Society Islands (Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, etc) These islands have coral reefs surrounding most of the island. There is navigable water inside these coral reefs, space the island has left as it began to sink. These islands still have the mountainous beauty, safe anchorages and great snorkeling reefs. We love this group, especially Huahine. But the Tuamotus have a stark, wild beauty and amazing waters, perhaps our favorite group in French Polynesia.
25 January 2020
One major difference between the life aboard a sailboat vs. the life of a dirt dweller is plumbing. And most of you will skip the rest.....TMI!
Let's start with the fact that fresh water is a precious commodity aboard a boat. Especially for a boat in salt water. When we cruised in the Great Lakes, we used lake water for all of our washing; dishes, clothes and showering. Uproar has a kick-ass watermaker. We make 30 gallons/hour of pure, drinkable fresh water from sea water. With modest conservation, that lasts 3 to 5 days. Those without watermakers must carry water from a source on shore (if available) or collect rain water. That could take care of drinking water but little else.
We didn't get our watermaker running until we spent three months in the Bahamas. I can tell you carrying water is a pain! Lisa threatened to cut her hair off unless I got the watermaker fired up. I did! Watermakers are rather troublesome devices with high pressure pumps, filters, etc. During the four years ours has been working, we have spent nearly $1/day on maintenance parts (no charge for the captain's labor)!
But back to our use of water. We tell our guests they are limited to three showers/day. Really, we can make a lot of water. Lisa and I shower at least once/day and often twice. If we are clean before bed, the sheets don't get, well sweaty. I mostly shower off the back of the boat. It is a lot like going for a swim. In fact it is going for a swim. I jump in and soak for a bit. Then, I climb out and rinse my hair with a squirt of fresh water. I shampoo with "man wash" (diluted shampoo) which I work down the rest of my body to get clean. A jump back in the water washes off the soap. Back on the swim platform, I spray down to thoroughly rinse off the salt water. I often just air dry in the cockpit. This whole procedure requires about ½ gallon of water. And I can do it without getting a swimming suit wet!
Lisa normally uses the forward shower. I call it a hollywood shower (Hunt For Red October reference). The heads both have a shower. It is just a spray nozzle on a hose from the sink. A home shower has a nice drain in the bottom. If a boat shower had a drain out to the ocean, the boat would sink. Water would flow back in the drain, fast! Instead, there is a pump to pump water out of the shower basin overboard. Just push a button.
The real fun of a boat shower is getting to see what you have just washed off your body. It is right there in the white, bottom of the head. Now we believe we are clean people and we don't use brown shampoo. One look at the shower drain says otherwise. Even days at sea when we aren't near any land, the shower water is disgusting. No wonder we shower before bed! Dirt dwellers never get to look at the results of their ablutions. Good thing.
There is another kind of waste that needs mentioning. We have two toilets or heads. Just where does it go? You have two choices, you can save it or dump it. Uproar does have a holding tank for each head. But there are no facilities outside the US where you can have the tanks pumped out. Every marina and fuel dock in the US has a pump-out but there are none in the Bahamas, Caribbean or South Pacific. It all goes into the ocean!
Do we feel bad about this? Well, just a little. We look at the density of cruisers in most places we anchor and the impact is less than can be measured. Especially with Remoras under the boat. Yes, we have a school of 12 poop-eating fish right under the boat in Fakarava. Just how do I know they eat what we pump overboard? We used to have our dog, Sophie, on board (and we miss her). Clean up would be to fling her poop overboard. The Remoras would fight over it. They also eat any food scraps we throw over.
I was snorkeling with Jim in Huahine while Lisa was back in the US. We were in a beautiful spot full of reefs and fish. Let's just say breakfast wasn't agreeing with me. Things became urgent. I swam away from Jim and ....solved the problem. The fish went nuts! We sometimes feed fish Ramen noodles or bread. I discovered something they like better! Speaking of TMI, I never told Jim.
When we get to New Zealand, they have a regulation that a yacht have a sewage disposal system. We have heard it is not enforced. But if it is, I hope those Remoras can swim fast enough to stay with Uproar on our passage there.
There is a lot more to say about boat plumbing. Stand by for TMI part 2.
Our Fifth Christmas at Sea
03 January 2020
Counting this as our fifth Christmas on Uproar puts time in perspective. It has flown by like the miles at sea.
First Christmas was at Elbow Cay, Bahamas. Uproar's draft did not allow us to anchor in Hope Town so we anchored on the south side of the Cay. There was an abandoned resort on shore inhabited by Haitian squatters. We assembled books and toys to bring to their children. They were characteristically shy but appreciative of the gifts. We then dinghied with Nancy Hancock from Moon Dancer into Hope Town. We went from boat to boat offering shots of Lisa's home-made lemoncello. A great way to make new friends. This was followed by lunch at a nice resort and a game of Kubbe on the beach with fellow cruisers.
Second Christmas was anchored in Saint Anne, Martinique. We were invited aboard Emily Morgan as the only Americans joining their British Christmas Eve celebration. Christmas Day was organized by John from Out of Africa, a South African brai (bbq) on the beach. About 50 cruisers attended bringing meat to grill and a dish to pass. Being our first Christmas in the Caribbean, we were introduced to a lot of new friends whose company we would enjoy for another year cruising there.
Third Christmas was in Santa Marta, Colombia. We were tucked into the modern, municipal marina, enduring 30+ knot winds daily. We organized a White Elephant Christmas gift exchange along with the ubiquitous covered dish dinner. This was mostly a new set of cruising friends with only a few we knew from the Caribbean. We braved the strong winds and made a joyous celebration in this new land for Uproar.
Fourth Christmas was in Raiavai, Australs, French Polynesia. The Australs are the southern-most archipelago in French Polynesia. We were nearly on the Tropic of Capricorn. Raiavai is very remote with only a few hundred people populating this beautiful island. Before Christmas, during a visit to the main village, we were pulled into a municipal tent where school children were performing song and dance routines. We were seated at a table and brought a large plate of chicken, beef, fish and vegetables for lunch. It was heart-warming to be with children for Christmas. Christmas day we rode our bikes around the island giving model airplanes and little toys to all the kids we saw. Then we had a quiet Christmas dinner on Off2Sea with Vaughn and Leslie. We were the only two cruising boats in the island lagoon and so appreciated being able to spend a special Christmas together.
This Christmas was in Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia. We entered the lagoon several days before with Caroline Tyson, visiting us from Milwaukee. The main anchorage contained numerous friends. Emails ahead of time suggested Fakarava as where we should meet for Christmas. Most boats nervously headed for an anchorage near the north pass as stormy weather raging out of the north was predicted. In spite of constant rain, we enjoyed a hearty Christmas Eve on Ocean Blue with Derek and Leslie and other cruisers. Christmas Day was on La Mitsu with Laurie and Sue and cruising friends. The White Elephant gift exchange yielded imaginative and hotly fought over gifts and a lot of fun. Great food and drink made for a joyous afternoon and evening.
The nomadic life of a cruiser has the sad consequence of missing out on special holidays with family at home. Phone calls help but fellow cruisers gather together as close friends and surrogate family for Christmas. We so appreciate this fellowship to help fill the void of not being home. When we returned to Uproar after Christmas on La Mitsu, we realized we were the only Americans at the party. But Christmas celebrations are alike wherever one sailed from.
03 January 2020
“beautiful bones, not the clown!”
That's how Beaux Os (pronounced Bozo) corrected spelling of his name when we wrote down his phone number.
Lisa and I arrived in Rangiroa the day before. Word was that dinghy gas and diesel were available in the other village, Avatoru, 5 miles away. We were pretty sure we had enough dinghy gas to get there and back to Otetou. We also loaded up some five gallon jugs for diesel. We arrived in the Avatoru and were told the service station was back a kilometer or so. Dinghying along the beach, we saw nothing but a skinny, old man fishing. He spoke English and told me the gas station was not far from his beach but north again. He offered me to take his old, pink bike to see if they were open. I pedaled away while Lisa struck up a conversation with Beaux Os.
The gas station was closed but would re-open the next day. Lisa was shown Beaux Os's artwork of coconut fiber weavings, incorporating black pearls. We promised to visit him another day when our friend, Caroline arrived. We would bring some of our pearls for him to make into bracelets.
Beaux Os and his son Hopi lived in palm frond huts on the beach. They are not tall enough to stand up in but have just enough room to lie down. Beaux Os insisted we call him in advance to visiting with Caroline. We rented a car a few days later and arranged to meet Beaux Os at his beach just after lunch. We pulled in near his hut and were whistled into a beautiful beach house next door. Beaux Os told us the owner was away and often asked him and Hopi to look after the place. It was full of Polynesian art as the owner was a professor of history. Beaux Os laughed and said it was a bit of an upgrade from their huts.
I was reminded of the Buffet song, “Gypsies in the Palace.” We sat on the porch and he showed us some of his work. Beaux Os delighted in weaving a ring with a big pearl into Caroline's hair. Sold! He looked at the pearls we brought with approval. He recognized the beautiful colors from Gambiers where we haunted the pearl farms last season.
His son, Hopi wove coconut fiber rope for use in native drums. They showed us how they select specific coconuts from only three trees on the motu, soak them in sea water and pound them into individual fibers. The fibers are cleaned and woven. Hopi made a meter of rope for me and showed me how to continue weaving in more fibers. I treasure this piece of local art and the lesson.
Beaux Os explained that Hopi was named after the Southwest American Indians who he believed make up part of his lineage. That brought up questions about his family. Beaux Os has 16 daughters and one son. He also adopted more sons, most often troubled boys out of detention. He told his kids to move far away from French Polynesia. Why? So he would have places to stay when he traveled. Beaux Os was well traveled.
We left three sets of pearls for bracelets and Beaux Os promised to have them ready by 4:00 the following afternoon. The next day it was raining steadily. With no rental car, I volunteered to dinghy the 5 miles to pick up our jewelry. Beaux Os and Hopi were still in the professor's house. The bracelets were stunning. He picked them up and said, “This one is for Caroline. And this one is for Lisa.” He clearly was taken by the ladies and did his best work.
We chatted on the dry porch for a bit. Beaux Os said he was so pleased that we took the time to visit him and get to know him. I said, “That's why we travel the world, to meet people like you.” There may have been a few tears shed as we hugged goodbye.
Why Beaux Os for a name? He explained he is just skin and bones but beautiful bones!