Ha'apai Islands - Tonga
21 October 2009 | Tonga
Scott
After a very enjoyable month in the Vava'u island group, we have moved southward into the Ha'apai islands. Leaving Vava'u at dusk we had a very easy overnight passage, arriving off Haano Island at first light. We were escorted in by two enormous humpbacks and a calf who surfaced within 25' of our stern and all breathed together. Though we had been watching them approach, it still gave us a fright to have them so close and so loud.
Visibility was poor with the low sun reflecting off the water and we ran smack into a huge coral head as we entered the anchorage. Ooops! We now have a big scuff on the leading edge of the keel with coral stuck to it and plenty of shaken nerves aboard, but fortunately no real damage. Everyone in the anchorage was up with their first cup of coffee so we were the morning entertainment. As soon as the light was better it was apparent where all the coral heads are, so I am sure that the anchored boats could see the impact coming long before we did. Depth went from 75' of water to less than 6' in a vertical cliff that is pretty obvious in good light, but we did not see it until it went under the bow. At least we were going very slowly.
We moved on to a picture perfect anchorage off one of the Tongan King's private islands. The island is pretty as a postcard with broad white beaches almost all the way around and the softest sand we have seen. Beach combing is amazing and we have collected a bucket of beautiful shells and several pet hermit crabs. Snorkeling and spear fishing continue to be great, though the water is quite cold at this point. The fish are getting smarter and more wary as we move south and I am scaring far more fish than I catch.
Last night I went on my first night dive with another cruiser, on a quest for "slipper lobsters". These are strange little prehistoric creatures that resemble a cross between an armored crab and a small lobster. First impression of night diving: very creepy, very cold and very dark! For several hours we swept the reefs with the underwater light until we spotted a green armored alien creeping along below us. Rene would hold the light on it and I would dive down and try and pin it to the reef with my hand before it blasted away with powerful flips of its tail. Once immobilized, I could get my hands around it, surface, and we would stuff it into the dive bag. The excitement and action kept me warm, and the comic sight of me swimming after the ones that tried to get away kept us laughing. We returned to the boat with an entire bag and they are happily living in a bucket in the cockpit awaiting lunch.
Today is overcast and windy and we are hunkered down doing school, catching up on chores, and looking forward to lunch.