After another day of struggling around Tahiti we finally figured it out and had a really fun time.

The warm Polynesian welcome continued as we searched for a more secure anchorage. The second day had us moving north of the Tahiti Yacht Club with several other boats hoping that a mooring ball at the yacht club would come open. We anchored, but before we could finish our lunch the local fishing co-op actually called the police on us. The cutest tiny blue police car zoomed up with two enormous Tahitian cops stuffed into the front seat. Not being able to believe that they were there for us, we quizzically ignored them trying every siren in their repertoire while we ate our lunch. Eventually, the largest cop that I have seen in my life came out on one of the local fishing boats and told us that the fisherman did not want us anchored there, and if we did not move immediately he would give us a ticket. We are still not sure what the ticket would be for as he did not make the French sailboat move, just the American and Canadian boats.

Third time being thrown out was the charm, and we were just in time to snag a mooring at the Tahiti Yacht Club from a departing boat. Bliss, we were in Tahiti! The yacht club had hot showers, real washers and dryers, and Target-sized stores around the corner. We met up with some of our favorite boats and had a blast bussing into town and exploring the open air market and becoming thoroughly familiar with the industrial areas looking for boat parts. Each day, a group of guys ventured into town on a quest for parts and supplies. As the most fluent in French, I was designated speaker and we had a hilarious time trying to find everything from a triangular rubber widget for the brine filter in a custom water maker, to fittings to transfer propane into our American tanks, and a place to rebuild an old dive regulator.

After nearly a week of chores we are back in shape, food, diesel, water, propane, clean clothes, and a several reliable sources for fresh baguettes.

We spent Friday night downtown on the main quay on a friend's boat and went to a spectacular Polynesian dance performance. Dance schools from all over the region send their dance groups to perform in a local stadium built for these performances. It was an amazing experience; there were dancers from adorable little girls of 3 vibrating like little humming birds to an entire group of 150 older women swaying gracefully in missionary approved head-to-toe muumuus. Each of the schools had a different interpretation and approach to the dancing and the accompanying music. It was clear throughout that these dances are deeply cultural - telling ancient stories, and the dancers were having a blast telling them. After watching three hours of dancing, it was also obvious why the early missionaries were appalled and worked so hard to suppress the dancing. Yowsah!! After the performance, we had a late dinner together on the main wharf from the little food trucks that were in the plaza. There was everything chocolate crepes to Chinese food, plus an entire veal turning on a spit.

Yesterday we left Tahiti and had a lovely sail to the next island, Moorea. Cooks bay, where Captain Cook anchored during his voyage, is stunning with unbelievable jagged spires topping lush cliffs in every direction. We finally caught up with one of our favorite families that we met in Mexico (though they are leaving tomorrow) and there are 9 kids in the anchorage between 6 and 12. As soon as we anchored last night, we went ashore to the Bali Hai hotel and played soccer with all the kids and parents. To complete perfection, the hotel has an ice machine!

Funny thing this morning, 4 customs agents came aboard to check our paperwork. They were really nice, very serious about their jobs, and all comfortably barefoot. What a place.