We left at 8 am for San Evaristo, to escape the western exposure to the forecast Coromuel. (We later learned that several boats stayed in Caleta Partida and were awake on "anchor watch" all night with big seas in the bay. We are very happy that we left.) We motored in light winds arriving early afternoon, making water on the way. We explored the little town and found the small tienda and the water distillation plant. We went to the new restaurant, an open palapa, and had fish tacos late lunch. The restaurant has an ingenious design. It is open on all sides, but curtains that are dropped as needed for shelter from the sun or high winds. The open sides allow a refreshing breeze to blow through.
After setting the anchor, Vicki began to check out the village in the binoculars. "I think there are chickens on the beach mingling with the seagulls," she noted. I thought that seemed odd, but I've seen odd things before. When we took the dinghy to the beach we found that the "chickens" were actually vultures! They hand around the beach and fight with the seagulls for the fish carcasses when the fishermen discard them. When waiting for the fishermen to return, they soar overhead, just like the old cowboy movies.
There are about 20 families here. They were reserved when we arrived, until we had been a few days and spoke to them in Spanish. We met Karen from SV Willful Simplicity. Willful Simplicity is a small (27 ft) sailboat. Steven and Karen bought an old, cheap boat so they could sample the cruising lifestyle for a year. If they liked the lifestyle, they planned to return to work, save money and buy a bigger and more comfortable boat. They found that they loved cruising and the simplicity of a small uncomplicated boat and decided to continue cruising on Willful Simplicity. Karen and Steve have adopted San Evaristo as their second home. They helped construct the palapa restaurant to bring cash to the community. Karen teaches English at the local primary school. They also help raise money from cruisers to help the school. Karen has no medical training, but is (probably) the most educated person in the village, so she assists with very basic medical matters. Only Primary school is available. For secondary school, kids to go La Paz or are home schooled.
As forecast, we had a wicked Coromuel from the west. But, as planned, San Evaristo is protected from the wind waves on the west. But we were hit hard by the winds. A very bouncy, rolly, anchorage giving intermittent sleep. I was up numerous times to check our anchor.