"Mate," I said..... as we turned in, "I need a new chapter for my book. Tomorrow we sail no matter what happens" (Rockwell Kent)
The temperature today is roughly 30 degrees C; with just a bit of breeze. In the bright sunlight, the colours of Marmaris bay are breathtaking- aquamarine water, the red clay and white rock of the mountains contrasting with the deep green of pine trees. It is easy to see why the ownership of this country has been coveted by so many nations through the centuries.
We are still at the dock, but the caulking repair has been completed and the carpenter has just finished installing the emergency steering. As long as the weather cooperates, we will sail tomorrow. Skopea Limani in Fethiye bay, reportedly one of the most beautiful places in Turkey, is just a short day-sail away.
Yesterday morning, things weren't looking so good. With the four-day holiday finally over, Demir's foreman was suggesting that the completion of the deck repair be delayed until we returned to Yacht Marine in October. "The longer it cures, the better" he said (something that had not been mentioned the previous week). This would have meant looking at those ugly streaks for the remainder of our vacation. The decks had already dried for four days longer than the recommended 48 hours and I was not in the mood to be accommodating. "I am very much not happy," I say, studiously ignoring Rick's pained expression. He needn't have worried; every male on the planet, regardless of nationality or culture, feels sympathetic to the plight of a man with an upset wife. When I return from a long slow run, up the steep hill on "Heaven Island", a workman is busily sanding the patches on the foredeck By 2 p.m. the decks are again looking very nice, although somewhat multi-coloured due to the spot-sanding. (This, I am assured, will "weather out", although probably not before the end of our vacation.) The problems and delays have been frustrating but, to their credit, Demir is making every effort to resolve them. When we come back in October, a representative from Saba (the company that manufactures the caulking) will come to inspect the decks with us to ensure that there are no further problems.
Rick spent a good part of the weekend putting together the wind generator and then installing it piece by piece on the pole. It had gone on the fritz last year. He had disassembled it last October and carried it with him on two transatlantic flights as well as to and from Florida (attracting a great deal of attention from baggage screeners along the way). By noon on Sunday, it was purring away on the back rail, and Rick was purring with satisfaction to see the voltage rising on the energy monitor. We decided to take the bus to Marmaris for a celebratory lunch.
Marmaris is an interesting spot. In winter, the population is roughly 35,000; in summer it swells to over 200,000. Although located in a spectacular setting, the adjective that probably best describes much of the town is "tasteless". Ugly concrete apartment buildings stretch for miles along the shore. In the bazaar, throngs of overweight tourists are dressed for the beach..barechested potbellied males, tattooed women in skimpy bikini tops; many seem to have outgrown even their flip-flops, heels hanging over the backs as they shuffle past.
The touts compete for their business
"Guten Tag, hello, where you from?..hello beautiful, (to an overweight but indeed beautiful teenager)
tonight we take a drrrink togetherrr??" Sunday is election day, a national constitutional referendum is being held (57% vote yes) but even though the beer cooler at the grocery store has a sign saying that sale of alcohol is not permitted on election day, the bars are all open and doing a brisk business.
Even in Marmaris, it is still possible to escape to some pleasant corners. After a delicious lunch of cold mezzas at Restaurant Liman, we climb through the streets of the charming old quarter to the castle at the summit.
Here, we see no sign of the tourist throngs. The streets are quiet and the castle has only a few other visitors, most of whom seem to be Turkish families enjoying a holiday outing.
The lackluster description of the castle provided by our Lonely Planet really hadn't done it justice. It is a tranquil spot, with a beautiful garden in the courtyard, a nice view and some interesting exhibits.
There are busts from the Greek and Roman periods, as well as some ancient glassware and jewelry. Although the current castle was built by the Ottoman sultan Suleyman the Magnificent in 1522, during his campaign to conquer Rhodes, the site dates back to an Ionian settlement circa 3000 B.C. My favourite exhibit provides a portrait and biography of Sultan Suleyman, a visionary who embraced freedom of religion during an era when the Spanish inquisition was in full force and some western European nations were expelling their Jewish and Muslim citizens.
The rampart commercialism of the waterfront is a sharp contrast to the tranquility of the castle, but the people-watching opportunities are hard to beat.
There are certainly many other things to do around Marmaris- we could hike the trails in the national parks, experience a Turkish bath at the hamam, or visit some of the ancient historic sites on the outskirts of town. Doubtless there will be other opportunities, but tomorrow, hopefully, we sail!