Aisling I

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21 June 2015

Living Hard in Kilada

10 July 2011 | Kilada, S.Pelopenesse, Greece
Rick
It's now been 3 days living on the hard here in Basimakopouloi Shipyard in Kilada and it feels like 3 weeks. It's not easy living 11' off the ground under a tarp to keep the 37 degree heat at bay. The yard is not paved of course and the fine dust is everywhere. Last night I neglected to use the washroom before bed and "had to go" at 3:00pm. Get out of bed, find my glasses, some clothes(it's too hot in bed with any on) climb down the ladder, worry about the vicious(?) guard dogs while I make my way to the Turkish toilet and then do everything in reverse. Yes, this is a glamorous lifestyle, isn't it?

There are pluses though, even with the "hard". Last night we finally made it out for a drink and then a bite to eat. Kilada is a small fishing village of, I'm guessing, about 1000 people. Even though this is not a tourist destination, there are about 24 restaurants and bars along the seafront. This apparent discrepancy, in Nova Scotian terms, of the ratio between inhabitants and establishments is incongruous, until you realize that eating out is a huge part of the culture here in Greece, at all income levels. This is what they do and it is fun to watch and take part in. There are families , with young kids playing hide and seek, elderly couples who need help just getting from the car to the table, skaters, "the boys" in their 20's, young girls in their 20's, dressed to the nines, a small sprinkling of tourists (mostly French for some reason), tables of business men, tables of fishermen and us. Although we do not speak Greek, it seems based on observation of tone and gesticulating that they are all instructing their table partners on the better way to do what ever. You could spend hours people-watching here.

Back to our mission. It is 9:00pm, we have decided we will first go to a bar for a drink and then find a restaurant / taverna. We are looking for an "experience". The manager at the shipyard mentioned a few restaurants to us and one of them was "10 Euro Douglas" I didn't understand his pronunciation, at first and he explained that the owner looked like Kirk Douglas and it always costs 10 euros no matter what you eat. There is no sign on this taverna but I ask and a helpful gentleman points out "Douglas" to us. Inside there are no tables just a kitchen and outside is a grill just being loaded with charcoal. The tables are across the street on the grass median. I ask for a menu and there is no menu, the owner explains in broken english, "salad, calamares, small fishes........" OK?",.... " how much?" I ask and with a shrug " look" he replies, gesturing to his kitchen, "not much... not more than 15 euros". Maybe 10 euro Douglas is now 15 euro Douglas, or maybe we dressed up too much, but this sounds like the experience we want! No one is eating yet so we decide to have a drink first.

We continue on down the street and find a "bar" with comfortable wicker chairs and some music playing. I ask the waitress what are all those brown colored drinks I see and she tells us they are iced espresso. This sounds delicious but Bon pipes in and says "Rick, it's 9:00pm, you will never get to sleep." The waitress smiles and I order a Mythos and Bon orders a glass of wine, which comes as a little mini-bottle. The setting is beautiful with all the fishing boats lined up, med moored, to the sidewalk across the street. There are about 25 sailboats at anchor in the harbour and the Franchetti Caves are just off to the left across the harbour. The people watching begins and all those I mention above are here or near. We are enjoying ourselves.

After our drinks we head back to 10 Euro Douglas's and find a table amongst all the cats. There are cats everywhere in Greece. The young man who is waiting on tables speaks no English but does ask " Bira or Vino?" and we order Vino and he responds with this tilted head shrug that clearly means "it will be my pleasure, of course". There is no other order placed, the dishes just start arriving. First it is small cooked "fishes" marinated in lemon and herbs and oil. Wow we are off to a great start. Then the rest roll in. As the waiter displays a plate, we respond yes or no...... stewed onion and eggplant in meaty sauce, fried egg plant slices served cold with tomato sauce, feta and mint and a mayonnaise fish salad on the side, mini calameraes deep fried, deep fried anchovies cleaned and de-headed served with a different tomato sauce, cooked red beets and greens in olive oil and wine vinegar. All of these are outstanding. Who says Greek cooking is not world class? This meal is one to be remembered. There is more, but by this time we are filled to the gills,as it were, and I can hardly move and am dreaming of my bed. We ask for the bill and after much contemplation while holding his pen on the pad he finally says 30 euros, without writing anything. Well, its not the 10 we were led to expect, but for 15 euros each this a "do again" as Bonnie and I usually say. On the other hand, we have 23 other places to try!
Comments
Vessel Name: Aisling I
Vessel Make/Model: Slocum 43
Hailing Port: Halifax, NS, Canada
Crew: Rick and Bonnie Salsman
About:
Crew from Halifax to Horta: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Dave Morse, Wally Fraser Crew from Horta to Spain: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Al Salsman, Rob Salsman We left Halifax, N.S. in June 2007, sailed to Horta, and explored the Azores for a month. [...]
Extra:
The info below is a copy and paste from some literature about the Slocum 43. Please excuse the platitudes. Although I may like them , they are not truly mine. Aisling I is a 1987 Slocum 43, designed by Stan Huntingford. She has been designed to satisfy the sailor who wants the blue water, "get [...]
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