Aisling I

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21 June 2015

Visiting Vis and Lovisce

11 September 2012
The island of Vis is not as well-known as many other Croatian destinations, due to the fact that it was a military base and closed to tourists until 1989. Although there is little development there now, Vis has been occupied since ancient times, first settled in the 4th century BC by Dionysus of Siracusa, and later occupied by Romans, Byzantines and Venetians (but not all at the same time, of course!) In Vis's more recent history, Marshal Tito apparently used a cave on the island as a base during World War II. The two main towns on the island are Vis town and Komiza. Since this was our first Croatian port of call after leaving Italy, we landed at Vis town, where we could clear customs and immigration. To facilitate this, we spent the first night at the town dock in the part of Vis town known as "Luka", but moved out to anchor in the harbour the next day. This gave us a beautiful view in all directions and lovely clear water for swimming.

One of the first orders of business was to get the prop cleared of the growth it had picked up during the six weeks that Aisling had been tied up in the marina at Pescara. (Since we do not use anti-fouling paint on the propeller, it collects growth faster than the hull.) Without proper diving equipment, Rick did this the hard way, using a mask and snorkel. The skipper does have the hardest job! He neglected to wear gloves, and had Band-Aids on almost every finger for days afterwards.



I wish we could tell you more about the island of Vis, but the truth is that we didn't fully explore it. One morning, we ran first out to an old monastery on the point to the north of us, then went back along the water toward the neighbouring harbour of Kut. Along the way, we made a stop to look for an old British naval cemetery that we had read about, that apparently dates back to the Napoleonic Wars. Although we located a cemetery that seemed a likely candidate, the gate had been walled up with brick. The nearby church was also closed, but it was interesting to see craftsmen at work on a restoration project. We stopped to chat with them for a few minutes and were pretty impressed to be told that this cornice had been carved in just a few hours!



The community of Kut is full of Old-World charm, with windowboxes and flowering shrubs, appealing little cafés and an attractive waterfront. Running through the back streets, the alluring smell of fresh-baked chocolate croissants necessitated a quick detour. They tasted just as good as they smelled, and probably undid much of the benefit gained from the run. I salved my conscience by focusing on the fact that it would have been much worse to have had the croissant without the run!



The next day, we branched off in a different direction and our run gradually turned into a walk as we made our way up the steep hill to Fort George. A woman who was collecting wildflowers asked us "Are you English? Because if you are, this fort belonged to you!" She explained that the Fort had been built by George the Third, and a cornerstone confirmed the accuracy of the information. As we struck up a conversation and introduced ourselves, Borje explained that she is Slovenian but visits Croatia two or three times every year. "Because" she said "in Slovenia, we have only two centimeters of beach per person! Croatia has the most beautiful coastline in the world, and we think of it as our own, because we were the same country for so long." She clearly thought we were quite mad to have sailed all the way here from Canada. I tried to explain myself. "My husband loves to sail" I said "and I love to travel..." "And you love your husband!" she interjected. I guess that pretty much sums it up!

Vis has a reputation for good food, and we'd hoped to try out at least one restaurant in Kut, but unfortunately that was not to be. Thunderstorms accompanied by wind and rain rolled through repeatedly, discouraging us from making the long dinghy ride to Kut and from renting a motorbike as we'd planned. We caught up on a few tasks during the days, cooked onboard each evening and watched episodes of "Justified" late into the night. So we missed some of the key sights in Vis, including the archeological museum with its bronze head of Aphrodite and a boat ride to the "Blue Cave" on nearby Visevo island. But once in a while, it's nice to just enjoy the "being there" without worrying about seeing every possible tourist attraction.

Our next stop was Lovisce, on the small island of Otok Scedro about 24 miles to the east, a wonderfully remote cove that reminded us very much of places we'd stopped in Turkey. In fact, if we just squinted our eyes a bit, we could have pretended we were in Nova Scotia. But in Nova Scotia, you'd be unlikely to find a choice of thriving restaurants in a location with no electricity! We went ashore to the restaurant "Porat" for the night out we'd been promising ourselves and had a fantastic fish soup, followed by fresh, grilled dorado and some of the best french fries I've ever tasted (and believe me, I've tasted more than my share!) all for a very reasonable price.

The next morning, it was a bumpy upwind ride to Badija just off Korcula, where we anchored in one of our favourite spots near the old monastery and decided to settle in for a while. It was great to be back!

Cruisers notes: Vis is a port of entry/check out for Croatia, although this service may be available only during the summer months. Customs is behind the tourist information office, and upstairs. Then the Police station is next to the veggie market on the town dock. Look for the black door. It will be closed but there is a phone number listed on the window to call and they will come in a few minutes. The Vis town dock has lazy lines and toilets and showers are available onshore next to the reception area (one street behind the dock). We paid 400 kuna for one night. Anchoring in the north of the bay off Luka is also possible (25 feet, mud and sand, good holding). We paid 70 kuna/night to anchor; the boat that collects the fees will also take your garbage ashore. There is a Konzum grocery store is beside the town square and there are a lot of restaurants and café/bars along the waterfront.

Lovisce is an attractive and shelted anchorage. The anchorage was tight and the waters deep for most of it but we did find hard packed sand in about 21' of water in close, near the restaurant Porat. There were bouys to tie up to in the other cove. No services here other than the two restaurants.
Comments
Vessel Name: Aisling I
Vessel Make/Model: Slocum 43
Hailing Port: Halifax, NS, Canada
Crew: Rick and Bonnie Salsman
About:
Crew from Halifax to Horta: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Dave Morse, Wally Fraser Crew from Horta to Spain: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Al Salsman, Rob Salsman We left Halifax, N.S. in June 2007, sailed to Horta, and explored the Azores for a month. [...]
Extra:
The info below is a copy and paste from some literature about the Slocum 43. Please excuse the platitudes. Although I may like them , they are not truly mine. Aisling I is a 1987 Slocum 43, designed by Stan Huntingford. She has been designed to satisfy the sailor who wants the blue water, "get [...]
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Aisling I's Photos - Aisling I (Main)
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