In Agripoli, it was sunny with cloudy periods and the temps were "10 degrees cooler on the coast", as Reid Dexter used to say. We had struggled the previous night with whether or not we should await Lyn and Kevin here or move on to Salerno or somewhere in the Bay of Naples. Bon said it depended if they had toilets here, so off I went to buy some spare parts, pay for last night's marina and check on the toilet situation. When we arrived the day before, the marinero said the office was in the bar and smiled as if this was a great place to have an office. Which is true I guess, but this morning as I looked from the deck, I saw about 5 bars lining the waterfront..... After not having any luck finding the parts, the chandlers were closed, I started on the bars and ended up at the small building (5'x8)' at the end of the pier which sold coffee and chips and cold drinks. This was the bar. "Non parla Inglesi" though, so after much gesturing and Anglo-italian guessing, I paid the bill. Sixty euros for one night. Yes there were toilets, in the public building at the end of the mole, but he was not sure if they were open.

So I went back to the boat and we let the lines go and decided there was enough time to sail all the way to Pozzuoli, which is past Capri on the other side of the Bay of Naples. It's 53 miles so the ETA is around 6:30pm local. The sea is flat, there is no wind . It looks like it will be yet another motor sail.



In the middle of the Bay of Salerno, the visibility is about 5 miles and it looks like we could have been in the middle of the Atlantic, with only the odd sailboat coming and going. Through the strait between the island of Capri and the point at the end of the Amalfi Coast, it's like we are in a washing machine. There are waves coming and going every which way, caused I guess by the channel between these two big bodies of water and aggravated by the dozens of ferries coming and going to Capri. I suspect these towering cliffs both on Capri and the Amalfi coast may also be having some effect. It really is an amazing sight and you can see why the Amalfi Coast is designated a World Heritage Site. The new AIS is working overtime at this point with alarms going off every few minutes. Note to self: change the alarm settings, as soon as you can figure out how!. We are changing course on a regular basis to avoid all this traffic and our track looks like a very wavy line. Fitting I guess.

We finally get through the worst of it and are in the middle of the bay, where we can now see Ischia and Pozzuoli in the distance. We contact Cantiere Sud and they do have space available, but it's 80 Euros per night, gulp. It's becoming clear that deep pockets are needed to sail around here, and ours will be empty before we're finished. Bon discovers a comment in Heikell's Pilot book which recommends an anchorage under the Castello in Baia. We give it a try and the anchor digs in well so we decide to stay here for the night and head into the marina the next morning. That's a bit of a saving. It's a bit rolly from the ferries but not too bad, and the setting is quite impressive with this giant fort towering above us.

The next morning we head in to Cantiere Sud, which is a very upmarket marina. While in the office we ask if they have anyone that can look into our toilet- related smell and fouled holding tank pump. Yes they do and they can start right now. Antonio arrives with his tool kit and in about 12 hours over two days he replaces all the hoses connecting everything, cleans the diverter valve and the pump. The hoses, which are 1.5" in diameter, were filled with about ¾" of salt and crud lining the sides. It's amazing that anything was getting through. When bits of the crust broke off from the hose they interfered with the pump. But when it's all done, Bon has a smile from ear to ear and the smell in the head is declared fixed!

So it's off to explore the town and find a bite to eat for supper. Pozzuoli is a bit run down on the edges but the people are busy and bustling with their daily shopping and evening passeggiata. The area, known as the Phlegraean Fields, is a center of agriculture and viniculture. Back in Roman times, BC, this was a major port for Rome. As a result, the town has a large amphitheater, still partially intact, an old Roman market place with some standing columns and many of the market stalls still intact and several other sites of note that we did not get to.

We woke up in the morning to a brand new day with deep blue sky, light wind and warm sun. We also find a brand new Open Eco 40 moored in the slip beside us, with Matteo Miceli and Paolo Girolan on board. One of them is on deck when I come out. I ask if he speaks a little English and he does. He has a fascinating story. He tells me they have just arrived from Tunisia, which is about 320 miles south west of Pozzuli, and they had 40-50 knots of wind most of the way. I believe him about the wind, because one of the reasons we are in the marina and not on the hook is that we saw a big blow coming our way. The boat is set up for racing but also has two Super Wind generators just like ours on the back and is covered with many solar panels. I ask if they are Solbian and he brings the tips of his finger to his mouth and kisses them saying "Si, they are fantastic". I have been eyeing these Italian made panels myself. It turns out that his boat is called an Eco 40 because everything is electric, including their motor, and all power is generated from either the sun, the wind or the water generator. The boat's motor will work for about 10 miles if the batteries are charged. He then tells me that their plan is to sail around the world and only eat from the sea and the "mumble mumble" he has on board. He points to the cockpit seat. I say "non capisco" and finally he says ouvo and I say "Chickens?" and he says "Si". He reaches down and opens a small hatch below the seat and feels around and pulls out two beautiful big eggs! He looks and me and gestures with the eggs and says " 50 knots, fantastico eh?" Incredible si. I guess the chicken's quarters must be grand to feel so comfortable that they can lay eggs while pounding through 50 knot winds and seas.

Ah, this cruising Life is amazing. The people you meet make it so.......who would have thought 50 knot eggs were even possible.Ciao!

Cruisers Notes

Baia (Pozzuolli):

We anchored one night in 30 feet on between the restricted zones and under the big fort on the point. The Fiardo boat yard was on shore, The hold was very good in mud and sand. Well protected from the North and West and open from the South and East. There was a bit of a roll from the ferries but not bad. From there the next day we went to Cantieri Sud on the other side of the bay in Pozzuolli. The cost was 80 euros / night and water and electric were extra. This is a very organized and upscale marina and yard with full facilities for painting, engine work, plumbing etc etc. Travel Lift. We had our holding tank and toilet problems fixed here in short order.Nice toilets and showers, washing machine and wifi. Supermercado to the right when you leave the gate; lots of restaurants, bakeries and fruit/vegetables in the town. Many interesting historic sites nearby.