Aisling I

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21 June 2015

Madelena to Terceira

14 July 2007 | Praia da Vitoria, Terceira
Rick and Bonnie
We arose at 4:00am on Thursday, had breakfast and left the anchorage of Madelena, Pico at 6:00am. It was initially a brisk sail under double reefed main, staysail and Yankee, but as we reached further into the Sao Jorge channel the winds became light, in the lee of Pico. The sun came out, it was hot and we motor-sailed under main and staysail as the winds became even lighter and variable. As we rounded the eastern tip of Sao Jorge, away from the influence of Pico, the winds piped up. I went for a nap and Bonnie took watch. The winds continued to build to around 25-35 knots from the SW and we were screaming along at 7-10 knots over the water. Bonnie pulled in the jib and under just staysail and double-reefed main we were still making about 6-8 knots. We sailed in to Praia da Vitoria on Thursday evening, in the rain, at about 6:00pm. Not a bad passage time of 12 hours for 82 miles. We anchored in the harbour for the night with excellent holding in 25' of sand, but took a berth at the marina yesterday morning. We can already see that it would be easy to linger here- the marina is located beside a lovely beach, with crystal clear water, multicoloured fish swimming beside the breakwater, very hot showers (they even provide towels and soap) laundry facilities and... the best part of all...wireless internet access throughout the marina. The cost for all this luxury: less than 7 Euros a day! After getting settled at the dock, we both lunged for our laptops like starving men, signed on to the internet and didn't lift our heads for over three hours.

The Marina is quite large and has a travel lift. It would be a great place to leave a boat, as there are direct fights from here to Gatwick. We have already met people and seen boats from France, Sweden, Denmark, Holland and Brazil. The German boat we moored beside in Horta is here, as well as Dean and Sheree on Necessity from Owen Sound, Ontario. Sheree's boys are visiting from Canada for a week or so.

Bonnie's turn: I eventually decided I should do something productive and set out for a run. Since this was only my third run since leaving home a month ago, it was a bit of a slog. It's not only that I've been a tad unmotivated... running in the Azores has presented some real challenges. There are steep hills in all directions, uneven cobblestone sidewalks, drivers who make you fear for your life and large, fierce looking Azorean dogs behind low fences that I suspect even Buffy (dog, not Slayer) could scale in a single leap. But I eventually managed to find a decent route...down the beach, through the town, and along a rural road bordered by tall trees, fields of corn, cattle and the usual hydrangeas and wildflowers. It felt good, but stopping felt even better and the shower better still. My next task was a haircut for Rick: I feel sure you'd be impressed by how great he looks, but I don't think I will let him return the favour (can anyone tell me how to say "Not too short, please" in Portugese?)

We decided to eat out last night and wandered through the town searching for a restaurant. The town is very charming- about the size of Lunenburg, with narrow cobblestone streets and some lovely old buildings. As with many towns here, some buildings were damaged by major earthquakes during the 19th century and as recently as 1980, but they have been carefully restored. As we walked through the town square, we could hear traditional Portuguese music drifting down from the upstairs window of a graceful old building, and through the casement windows we could see a group of teenagers dancing in a very formal style. I felt as though we were time-travelers.

As we searched for a restaurant, we heard a young boy on the sidewalk say something about shipping a car back to Canada. I stopped to ask if he was Canadian, and he told us that he was from Montreal but was spending the summer with his father, who owned the Restaurante (La-Barca) that we were standing in front of. The obvious thing was to try the restaurant- a stroke of good luck, since the food was delicious and the prices were very reasonable. For 48 Euros we had an outstanding bottle of Lello Branco from DOC Duro, fried Calamari and a grilled white fish called Cherne (turbot, we think) with rice and salad. It was delicious- the best meal of the trip so far. At the end of the meal the owner, ("Luciano Antonio Cardoso de Oliveira") joined us at our table. He is a charming Azorean-born man who lived in Canada most of his life and had two successful restaurants in Montreal, but returned to Terceira two years ago to open his current restaurant and a pizza shop. He had tired of the fast pace in Montreal and a visit to his original home, with its beauty and laid-back lifestyle, inspired him to make a change. His days are clearly still busy, though- especially this summer, with two of his children visiting from Canada for seven weeks and another son having just left for home. He told us that it was significantly cheaper to run a restaurant here than in Canada, and overall the cost of living is much less. His restaurant seems to be very popular with the local Azoreans as well as the soldiers from the American base nearby. He regaled us with stories of restaurants and restaurateurs from Montreal and the contrast between life in Praia versus Montreal. Wally, you would have loved it!

We wandered back to the boat at about 10 p.m. as the bars and restaurants were just beginning to fill. We spent a few minutes enjoying the evening air in the cockpit before heading to bed. Next on our agenda is a visit to Angra Do Herismo, a city that dates back to the 15th century and is now a UNESCO world heritage site.

We've finally posted some photos on the blog gallery, as well as a lovely poem that Martha wrote for Aisling and crew during the trans-atlantic passage. Hope you enjoy them!

Rick and Bonnie



Comments
Vessel Name: Aisling I
Vessel Make/Model: Slocum 43
Hailing Port: Halifax, NS, Canada
Crew: Rick and Bonnie Salsman
About:
Crew from Halifax to Horta: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Dave Morse, Wally Fraser Crew from Horta to Spain: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Al Salsman, Rob Salsman We left Halifax, N.S. in June 2007, sailed to Horta, and explored the Azores for a month. [...]
Extra:
The info below is a copy and paste from some literature about the Slocum 43. Please excuse the platitudes. Although I may like them , they are not truly mine. Aisling I is a 1987 Slocum 43, designed by Stan Huntingford. She has been designed to satisfy the sailor who wants the blue water, "get [...]
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Aisling I's Photos - Aisling I (Main)
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South coast of France looking West from La Ciotat
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Aisling leaving RNSYS for Europe 2007 -1 (2)
DSCF2584: In St Georges, Bermuda after our first Ocean Passage 2002.....
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P4022273b: The Mary B Brooks
214 Tons. Built 1926 at Plympton, N.S., Canada. LOA 99
 
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