Aisling I

18 July 2016 | Genoa
11 July 2016 | Genoa Italy
04 July 2016 | Genoa
02 July 2016 | Genoa
25 June 2016 | Porto Azzurro Elba
11 April 2016 | Marina di Ragusa
14 January 2016
25 September 2015 | Crotone Italy
18 September 2015 | Erikoussa
10 September 2015 | Preveza
10 September 2015 | Preveza
24 July 2015 | Preveza
13 July 2015 | Vlicho Bay
03 July 2015 | Preveza Greece
21 June 2015

Porto

10 July 2008 | Porto Pollo and Filitosa
It was blowing 25 knots on the nose as we left the harbour at Ajaccio, but when we turned the corner at Cap Muro we were able to sail in light wind from the west. The entire west coast of Corsica is less than 100 miles in length, so our "passages" have become pleasure cruises where we sit back and enjoy the incredible views from the cockpit. We arrived in Porto Pollo at around 5 p.m. and picked up a white mooring ball in the anchorage just off the beach. According to our Imray guide, the white moorings are strong enough for boats up to 18m.

Porto Pollo was once a fishing village, but today it seems to be laid-back colony of summer homes. There is a golden sandy beach, a few small hotels, a supermarche, a diving school, but not much else. The anchorage is surrounded by low rolling hills of pine and maquis; the jagged mountains behind Propriano are visible in the distance. After finding the "capitainerie" (in a small trailer on the beach) and settling our bill for the mooring (13 euros), we wandered across the road to a small vegetable stand to buy some tomatoes, then sipped a pastis on the chic-looking patio of the Hotel du Golfe's waterfront restaurant.

The hotel's reception desk seems a good place to ask about transportation to Filitosa, a nearby megalithic site. A serious-looking man behind the desk tells me that there are no buses, and that calling a taxi will be too expensive, but he will drive us to Filitosa the next morning at 0930 if we wish. I tell him that we are not staying in the hotel and he says yes, he knows, but he wants to do it anyway, because I am "sympatique"- and perhaps we would like to have dinner in the hotel restaurant.

So this morning, after a quick caf� au lait in the restaurant, we climbed into his SUV and headed along the narrow roads to Filitosa. We passed masses of beautiful flowering shrubs, farms with olive trees, cows and calves in pastures, recently-mowed fields with bales of hay, a donkey. A large white cow staring at us over the half door of her enclosed stall is so close to the road that I could touch her if I reached from the car window. Along the way we chat with Antoine, whom we learn is the owner of the hotel. During the ride he tells us that he grew up in Corte, Corsica and his wife is from Porto Pollo. Business is tough this year as the middle class French are feeling the pinch from a slow economy. He refuses to accept any money even for gasoline, because he is doing it "for pleasure", yet he seems a very serious and intense man.

We are grateful for his kindness in bringing us to Filitosa- it's difficult to find the words to describe the site. The sheer age of the place fills us with a sense of awe- even the olive trees are ancient. Some of the artifacts found on the site date back to the sixth millennium BC. We are here to see the "menhirs"- megalithic stone monuments that stand vertically in the ground. The setting is pastoral, serene- I almost feel that we should be whispering as we wander along the paths. There are beautiful wildflowers in the fields- rock roses, cornflowers and even a few poppies. The earliest of the stone menhirs are roughly four thousand years old, but were discovered only in 1946, by the owner of the land. That must have been quite a day! Some of the menhirs are etched with human features and weapons. The central monument has five "statue-menhirs" standing around a thousand-year-old olive tree. I remember how disappointed Christopher was that we missed seeing the megaliths outside Evora and wish that I could somehow magically transport him from Halifax to Corsica. (You too, Katherine!)

On the return drive, Antoine tells us more about Corsica. There are more than 100 mountains higher than 2000 meters- the highest, Monte Cinto, is 2,700 meters. Corsica has been inhabited by prehistoric man, Greeks, Romans, Turks and Moors, and was held by the Genovese for centuries. The Martello towers (prototype for the one in Point Pleasant Park) that ring the island were built by the Genovese and provided a communication system capable of getting a message around the coast within an hour. Corsica was "sold" to France by the Genovese during the era of Pasquale Paoli, the famous Corsican patriot who fought for (and temporarily won) Corsica's independence. Antoine speaks with great reverence of Paoli who, he says, was a compatriot of Thomas Jefferson and played a roll in designing the American Declaration of Independence during an extended stay in America. We do not ask Antoine if he favours the Corsican separatist movement- perhaps not, since the tourist industry here is highly reliant on travelers from mainland France.

Whether or not it is officially a separate nation, Corsica truly seems a world away from France- and we haven't even ventured inland yet. Perhaps we will linger here a bit longer than originally planned. Although we have been warned that it will become very busy here after Fete Nationale, Antoine tells us that Sardinia will be even busier. Hopefully we will see him again tonight- we are looking forward to having dinner in his restaurant!

The worrisome news from home is that Rick's mother is in hospital again. It is difficult to be so far away and even daily updates are not enough to dispel our sense of unease- but our conversation with Lyn yesterday was reassuring and we are hoping for better news soon.
Comments
Vessel Name: Aisling I
Vessel Make/Model: Slocum 43
Hailing Port: Halifax, NS, Canada
Crew: Rick and Bonnie Salsman
About:
Crew from Halifax to Horta: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Dave Morse, Wally Fraser Crew from Horta to Spain: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Al Salsman, Rob Salsman We left Halifax, N.S. in June 2007, sailed to Horta, and explored the Azores for a month. [...]
Extra:
The info below is a copy and paste from some literature about the Slocum 43. Please excuse the platitudes. Although I may like them , they are not truly mine. Aisling I is a 1987 Slocum 43, designed by Stan Huntingford. She has been designed to satisfy the sailor who wants the blue water, "get [...]
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Aisling I's Photos - Aisling I (Main)
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