Aisling I

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21 June 2015

Cala Di Tizzano and Bonifacio

13 July 2008 | Bonifacio, Corsica
Bonnie and Rick
Apparently, the old saying about how time flies when you're having fun isn't always true. It's odd how time seems to slow down when we're travelling on Aisling. At home, where our lives tend to be too busy, the weeks pass by at warp speed. Here, we have difficulty keeping track of the dates or even the days of the week. Yesterday, Rick looked at me with a puzzled expression and said "Is it really only three weeks since we left Halifax?"

Our dinner at Antoine's restaurant in Hotel Golfe was outstanding and the local Corsican white wine was a definite "buy again". We highly recommend a stop at Porto Pollo if you have the opportunity. The four Americans we met at dinner were enjoying themselves just as much as we were- but why wouldn't they be? They had come to Corsica as crew on a private jet, and were having a six day all-expenses-paid layover while they waited to fly their passengers back to the US. I should have asked for a job application!

We left Porto Pollo yesterday at around noon and had a leisurely sail to Cala di Tizzano. The anchorage was very pleasant, with a Genoese fort on the point and a few villas and cafes scattered among the granite rocks on the shore. From some vantage points, we could almost imagine ourselves to be at anchor in Rogues Roost (which is still the prettiest anchorage on the planet as far as we are concerned). For entertainment, we threw little bits of bread overboard to watch the fish gather. The water was so clear that it felt like we were floating in a giant aquarium.

We pulled up the anchor at around 0900 this morning, hoping that a noontime arrival in Bonifacio would give us a better chance of getting a berth. Monday is F�te Nationale and the most popular holiday period in France is just beginning, so we can expect our lives to get a bit more complicated for the next six weeks.

As the dramatic cliffs of Bonifacio came into view, we scrambled to rig the fenders on the lines. After our peaceful existence of the past few weeks, I wasn't quite prepared for the excitement of sailing into a narrow calanque, with the citadel towering above us and a huge ferry bearing down on our stern. The ferry captain gave us the full benefit of a VERY loud blast on the horn, but we weren't quite sure which way to turn- not much wiggle room, to put it mildly. When we got the dreaded five "You are standing into danger!" blasts, I was beginning to wish I was back in New Waterford! Eventually we realized that he wanted us on the north side of the calanque and managed to get out of his way without slamming into any of the boats that were exiting.

The harbour is a hubbub of activity. The dozens of restaurants and shops lining the waterfront give the place a sort of festival air. There must be twenty tripper (tourist) boats based here and they come and go at full throttle. Add in the hundreds of sailboats and power boats up to mega size, in a channel that is about 300' wide and you start to get the idea. It was quite an adrenalin rush trying to find a spot in the marina (daily rate for a boat Aisling's size, 54 euros) with the capitainerie not responding to our VHF calls and our cellphone out of minutes. We eventually flagged down one of the capitainerie boats and were waved toward a spot where, fortunately, the skipper of the neighboring boat gave us a hand with the dock lines and lazy line. Now we are bow-to, with a boat on the quay aft of us not much more than 30' away. Getting away will be lots of fun, I'm sure.

In this area it is mostly French and Italian boats, although there is a boat from the UK next to us. The French boats tend to be either Beneteaus, Jeanneaus or rugged aluminum go-anywhere types. The Italians can be cruising around in anything from 60' RIBS to huge sailing yachts to sleek 50-100'cigarette boats with beautiful babes sunbathing on pillows at the stern or on the bow, even when they are making 50 knots. I digress a bit, but when we were anchored in St Tropez, one of the sleek Italian boats, about 80' long, pulled in and anchored beside us. The owner and his girlfriend, who looked to be in their early thirties, were served rose on the afterdeck by a steward dressed in the requisite penguin suit and tie, then roared off into the sunset-probably in search of an anchorage that was a little less rolly.

We plan to spend a few days here and perhaps take the opportunity to rent a car and do some inland exploring. There's even a wifi cafe at the end of the dock, so it might be hard to drag ourselves away!

Comments
Vessel Name: Aisling I
Vessel Make/Model: Slocum 43
Hailing Port: Halifax, NS, Canada
Crew: Rick and Bonnie Salsman
About:
Crew from Halifax to Horta: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Dave Morse, Wally Fraser Crew from Horta to Spain: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Al Salsman, Rob Salsman We left Halifax, N.S. in June 2007, sailed to Horta, and explored the Azores for a month. [...]
Extra:
The info below is a copy and paste from some literature about the Slocum 43. Please excuse the platitudes. Although I may like them , they are not truly mine. Aisling I is a 1987 Slocum 43, designed by Stan Huntingford. She has been designed to satisfy the sailor who wants the blue water, "get [...]
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