Aisling I

Somewhere off Isola di Sant Antioco, Rick downloaded the grib files with the weather and we realized that our visit to the Golfo di Oristano and Tharros would have to wait for another season. There was a narrow weather window between the 8th and 10th when things looked good for the sail to Sicily, but by Aug 11th the wind would be Force 6-7, ON THE NOSE. We decided that Carloforte, on Isola di San Pietro, would be our turnaround point.

Entering Carloforte harbour was a bit stressful. The approaches are very shallow, and the Imray guide says that "the buoys in the approaches cannot always be relied upon to be in place". The pilot guide suggested that we follow a transit where the white belfry of the cathedral and a black and white checkered beacon line up on 273.5 degrees. I frantically scanned the harbourfront with the binoculars trying to find the cathedral and eventually realized that it has now been painted yellow. Very inconsiderate of them- and I never did find the black and white marker, either. Meanwhile, Rick had been calmly piloting us safely past the shallow spots, so we focused on finding a marina, since anchoring in the harbour is not permitted. Marina Sfredi answered our VHF call on the first attempt, and waved us into a berth near the marina entrance. The price was 67 euros a night (which apparently is what charge band 3-4 now translates to) but since we'd been at anchor for nearly a week we felt it was a justified expenditure. We'd hoped they would have potable water at the dock, but they didn't. Access to good water is becoming an issue and running out is my second biggest fear, right next to being shipwrecked.

There are no major historic monuments in Carloforte, so we were completely free of any pressure to sightsee. The town is lovely-behind the waterfront, the narrow streets of the old town are lined with elegant three-story buildings in varying shades of yellow, pink and light green. Wrought iron balconies edged with flowerpots and strung with lines of washing sit above a warren of little shops of every kind....bakeries, "frutta e verdura"shops, wine shops, shops selling Sardinian delicacies, antique shops...all our favourite things. Unfortunately, with our usual impeccable timing, we had arrived just as siesta was beginning, so we each had a sandwich and an Ichnusa beer at a little bar, by which time we were ready to fully participate in the rite of siesta and went back to the boat and had a nap.

Carloforte is a fishing town and our travel guidebooks firmly advised us not to miss the seafood. At eight o'clock (quite early for eating out in Italy) we went in search of a ristorante and eventually settled ourselves at Vitorio's on the waterfront. We haven't tasted pulpo (octopus) that good since we left Bayona, but the biggest surprise was the pasta- a bowl of spaghetti with sepia ink and a plate of...believe it or not...lasagna. We were sure we hadn't ordered lasagna, but decided not to argue the point. Now, if only I could get my hands on that lasagna recipe. Dean and Christopher would love it! We watched with great envy as the large table of Italians behind us devoured plate after plate of seafood of every variety imaginable, but after the pasta we simply didn't have the fortitude to eat another bite so never did get to the "secondi" choices. Beside us, a young couple was eating deep fried calamari and completely ignoring each other as the man talked animatedly on a cellphone (one hand for the phone, one hand gesturing just as though the person on the other end could see him) and the woman texted non-stop.

Our waiter for the evening was very endearing. He was about 25, a bit on the portly side, and made valiant efforts to speak to us in English. Since his English was about on a level with my Italian, which is to say that he knew the words for water and wine and a few verbs in present tense only, I fully appreciated the amount of effort required. Rick was convinced that the secret of the pulpo flavour was in the type of olive oil they were using, and insisted that I ask our waiter where we could buy it. He very carefully explained that we must go to the grocery store and ask for "olio oliva, extra vergine". As far as brands went, they were all (with a shrug) "uguale". I'm pretty sure he was left with the impression that we had never tasted olive oil before.

As we made our way along the waterfront, a concert was beginning just a few hundred metres from the marina. That scenario is not always a good thing- we have had a few sleepless nights listening to lackluster performances in various locations. This time, the band was excellent and the all-girl Sardinian choir that joined them for the last hour was the highlight of the evening. As they stood on the stage with their hair blowing in the wind, singing songs in Sardo that I suspect were the Sardinian equivalent of Cape Breton's "We are an Island a Rock in the Stream", it was sad to think that we would be leaving Sardinia soon.

The next day I sneaked in a quick visit to the morning market, while Rick paced the deck worrying that the wind would come up before we got away from the dock. Because we med-moor bow-first, the docking is relatively easy, but undocking in reverse through the spider web of anchor lines tends to create some anxious moments. We got away smoothly at around 1130, and sailed back to enjoy one last night in Nora, where unfortunately the swell was back with a vengeance. The next day we made our way to Villasimius for one last night in another beautiful anchorage as we prepared for the passage to Sicily.

We've seen some beautiful places on our journey, but it is difficult to imagine that anything will top Sardinia as a cruising ground. Warm turquoise water, a seemingly endless selection of incredible anchorages, a fascinating history and culture ....how long would it take to grow tired of it? I'm already scheming to schedule a return visit.

And now, for something completely different...Sicily! We arrived in Trapani on Saturday night, after the bumpiest passage ever. We're glad to be here!

Comments

Vessel Name:	Aisling I
Vessel Make/Model:	Slocum 43
Hailing Port:	Halifax, NS, Canada
Crew:	Rick and Bonnie Salsman
About:	Crew from Halifax to Horta: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Dave Morse, Wally Fraser Crew from Horta to Spain: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Al Salsman, Rob Salsman We left Halifax, N.S. in June 2007, sailed to Horta, and explored the Azores for a month. [...] More
Extra:	The info below is a copy and paste from some literature about the Slocum 43. Please excuse the platitudes. Although I may like them , they are not truly mine. Aisling I is a 1987 Slocum 43, designed by Stan Huntingford. She has been designed to satisfy the sailor who wants the blue water, "get [...] me there" ability with the amenities for great comfort at anchor and at sea. It's a combination of engineering, performance, comfort and safety, wrapped in high quality Burmese teak finish, teak and holly cabin soles and rich upholstery. She is meant to be easily handled by a couple under almost any conditions. She was built in Taiwan to exacting standards using some of the latest technologies of the time that are still admired today. LOA: 42'6" LWL: 35'10"" TYPE: Sailboat - Cutter Rigged BEAM: 12'11" DRAFT: 6' 5" BUILDER:SLOCUM DISPL: 28,104 lbs. SAIL AREA: 808 Sq.Ft. DESIGNER: Stan Huntingford BALLAST: 9,000 lbs. HULL MATRL: Fiberglass ENGINE: Perkins 4108 TANKAGE/FUEL: 120 gal TANKAGE/WATER:150 gal GENERAL INFORMATION: Naval Architect Stan Huntingford has incorporated into this sturdy double ender, both seaworthiness and ample interior space that offers steady and comfortable cruising. Below the water line, the hull shows a fine entry with a long cutaway forefoot followed by an efficient and modern keel section and a deep profile skeg hung rudder, just forward of a tapered stern section. This design combination readily separates the Slocum 43 from other traditional yachts and offers ease of handling and lively performance. This yacht is a perfect example of a classic offshore design and has a warm, roomy and comfortable interior . Incorporating a tumble home stern, bulwarks, dorades, opening ports, oversize rigging and quality construction, This yacht is a modern classic. ACCOMMODATIONS & LAYOUT: Headroom is 6'4" or better, throughout the boat and storage capacity can only be noted as "more than ample". Beautiful Burmese teak joinery throughout, solid teak staving , all doors are beveled and hand fitted, lockers are teak lined and the glossy varnished cabin sole is teak and holly plank. The interior is finished with a satin varnish with high gloss accents on the trim. Teak doors are louvered. This yacht sleeps up to six people in accommodations with the forward cabin, main salon and owners quarter berth cabin. The forward cabin design is a signature of the Slocum and incorporates an upper and lower twin bunk to port, with the top berth extending into a a settee and to port, there is extensive storage in the form of shelves, hanging locker, drawers and louvered doors. Naval Architect Stan Huntingford has incorporated into this sturdy double ender, both seaworthiness and ample interior space that offers steady and comfortable cruising. Below the water line, the hull shows a fine entry with a long cutaway forefoot followed by an efficient and modern keel section and a deep profile skeg hung rudder, just forward of a tapered stern section. This design combination readily separates the Slocum 43 from other traditional yachts and offers ease of handling and lively performance. This yacht is a perfect example of a classic offshore design and is one of the warmest, roomiest, most comfortable interiors available in a 43' cruising yacht. Incorporating a tumble home stern, bulwarks, dorades, opening ports, oversize rigging and quality construction, This yacht is a modern classic. Underneath the starboard countertop is a Stainless Steel automatic internal lighted freezer controlled by an opening top or door. Additionally, the refrigerator box opens from the front. The refrigerator and freezer have large capacity plates which were built to be easily removed for future servicing. There are 2-deep stainless steel sinks, fully gimbaled stove and generous counter space. Overhead cabinets have a moveable peg system, which allows you to custom fit spaces inside to the size and shape of your dishes. Over the galley is a large opening hatch for light and ventilation, also, there are two opening ports over the stove area for added ventilation. Directly across from the galley, to starboard, is a proper offshore, forward facing navigation station and chart table with tremendous room for an exceptional compliment of navigation and electronic equipment for easy use while navigating. The large nav table/desk has a generous storage locker under the desk top and room for the additional electronic navigation and communication equipment outboard. The nav seat is contoured for ease of use underway and the electrical panel is flush mounted here, on a swing-out door for easy access. Overhead are two additional opening ports for excellent cross ventilation with the galley and Nav area. Just aft of the nav station and to starboard of the companionway, is a large pilot berth that will be your favorite berth when offshore. There is a teak grate built into the teak and holly floor at the bottom of the companionway, to catch water from wet gear. With the wet locker and teak draining grate, which drains to the bilge, all foul weather gear is kept aft and away from the main living quarters. All locker doors are ventilated. At the bottom of the companionway stairs is additional storage behind bottom two steps. Next, to port is the owners aft cabin with a queen sized berth with storage below as well as drawers for him and her. Various shelves and locker with removable shelf and enclosed storage locker, as well as ample book storage and large teak framed mirror, mounted on the bulkhead. The aft stateroom also has excellent ventilation provided by two opening ports and an opening hatch overhead. There are 11 Stainless steel opening ports with screens and 5 opening deck hatches, plus the companionway hatch, with screens, which provides a tremendous amount of light and superior cross ventilation. There are also 2 dorade vents, one over the head and one over the chart table. Below deck ventilation far surpasses the standards in the industry. There are light colored curtains at the ports for privacy, interior cushions are a blue HULL AND DECK Hull hand laid-up Fiberglas with 20mm R62-80 Airex Sandwich. Cast iron ballast - 4.08 tonnes, flooded with resin and 100% glassed over ( encapsulated keel). Deck- hand laid-up Fiberglas with 3/4" Baltek balsa-wd sandwich core. Teak side decks - seasoned timber, quarter sawn with black bedding compound below and in seams, secured to Fiberglas by 1" sheet metal screws, countersunk and plugged. Inlaid teak on cabin top. 1 1/2" s/s shaft, tapered to ABYC std ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Conforms to United States Coast Guard and American Bureau Yachting regulations governing wire type, coding and load capacity FRP battery box, ventilated cover with quick release tie down NEWMAR (USA) electrical panel with panel light, circuit breakers with "ON" light and battery test switch, both 110v AC and 12v DC, volt Fuel tanks - New April2000, 120 gallons in 2 Aluminum 60 gal tanks with baffles, clean out ports, complete with dipsticks, inter tank connectors with valve, take off from top with s/s ball valve on each labeled and grounded More
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Aisling I

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