Aisling I

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21 June 2015

Trapani

16 August 2008 | NW Sicily
Bonnie
I've been spending a lot of time listening to Italian lessons and have managed to master a selection of useful phrases, like "It's a car!" "I'd like an orangeade and a panini please", and "Would you like to dine with me tonight?" Unfortunately, not a single one of those phrases was even remotely useful when the guardia costeria arrived to tell us that we had to move our boat off the Trapani town dock. Rick had abandoned his efforts to communicate with them and asked them to wait a "momento" while he summoned me to the bow. Presumably they were expecting him to return with someone who could actually speak their language, but instead they found themselves faced with me, in a nightgown. saying the Italian equivalent of "No may here??" "Must to go now??" "May here later??" and even worse, clearly not understanding a single word they said in response. Still, it was obvious that they wanted us to move to the laid moorings at the entry to the harbour. There seemed to be a glimmer of hope that we would be able to come back to the dock later, but I couldn't fully understand that part.

It was really too bad that we had to move, because we thought we had found the perfect spot. We were enjoying the company of our new neighbours Jaab and Diana, who were the dockside equivalent of Tom and Linda in terms of friendliness and helpfulness. We'd been able to wander off into the town for dinner on Saturday night without having to use the dinghy or climb off the anchor. We had also been very happy to see that a water delivery truck came along the dock every evening, selling nonpotable water at 20 euros for 300 litres. (You will note that our standards have now dropped on the issue of water- if it's safe to shower in, I'll pay the asking price.) Unfortunately we had not yet filled up and the truck was nowhere in sight when we pushed off the dock and headed out to the mooring field. Picking up a mooring ball here is no easy feat, because we have to feed the line through a small eye in the top of the heavy ball. As we approached the buoy, a friendly voice hailed us, and Claude from the American-flagged boat Cenou scooted over in his RIB to give us a hand. Shortly after we got settled, he appeared with a bag of books and an invitation to coffee. We enjoyed meeting his two young daughters, who had stayed behind in Trapani with their father while their mother made a quick journey to the US. The family has been cruising aboard their 46-foot catamaran since 2006. I've always wondered what it would be like trying to find space to anchor one of those big cats in the Med, but now I can clearly see the benefits. Their boat has almost as much space as my parent's first house did and regularly does 200 mile days! The only downside of the cats seems to be weight management (of the boat, not the crew)-the boat slows dramatically when overloaded.

During the afternoon, Rick continually scanned the town dock with his binoculars to see what the other boats were doing. It seemed we were the only ones who'd obeyed the order to move. We're just so...Canadian.

There are advantages to being in the mooring field. The view is nicer and the breeze makes it cooler onboard. It's also an excellent vantage point to watch the comings and goings around the hydrofoil ferry that crashed on the mole on Thursday night- almost a year to the day from another similar crash. (Luckily there were no fatalities this time, but I would think twice before getting on one of the Ustica ferries.) In spite of our front-row seats, the level in our water tanks was getting lower, so when we saw a vacant space at the town dock on Wednesday we decided to move back. Unfortunately, within three hours, the coast guard paid us another visit and insisted that we move around into a stern-to position, or leave. This time, they meant business and stayed around to be sure that every boat complied. There was lots of grumbling and if we'd paid attention I'm sure we could have learned a few colourful new Italian words. Rick made it clear that trying to med-moor on our stern anchor wasn't something he was prepared to attempt for the first time in the stiff breeze that had suddenly come up- but we still had no water and something had to be done. I sprinted down the road to inquire about the price of a marina berth- 90 euros. Gulp. Could we perhaps just come in and buy some water? The manager pointed me to a vacant place at the dock and I told him we'd be there in ten minutes. Thanks goodness he spoke English- or so I thought. After maneuvering Aisling into position, bow to, it became clear that he thought we were staying for the night. Some telephone-based assistance from his English-speaking friend was required before he agreed that, although it was not "normale", we could fill our tanks for 15 euros. When I went back to the office with the money and some Canadian and Nova Scotian flag pins, he decided that 10 euros was enough and gave me 5 euros back.

After getting settled back on the mooring, we had a lovely evening with Jaap and Diana onboard their Dufour 40, Sykiara. Early in the evening, the reason for our eviction from the dock became clear. As part of the festival, the statue of the Madonna di Trapani was brought to the dock on a float, loaded onto the ferry and taken out to the mouth of the harbour. Later, she was brought ashore for a procession to the cathedral, followed by a dramatic fireworks display over the harbour.

Yesterday was the day we'd been anticipating for weeks- Roy and Joanne have arrived! We've already explored several of Trapani's beautiful old churches, had a swim, tasted Sicilian pizza and gelato and done a little shopping. Today is the holiday and we're just about to head to shore to see what's happening on the streets.

All the best from Bonnie, Rick, Roy and Joanne
Comments
Vessel Name: Aisling I
Vessel Make/Model: Slocum 43
Hailing Port: Halifax, NS, Canada
Crew: Rick and Bonnie Salsman
About:
Crew from Halifax to Horta: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Dave Morse, Wally Fraser Crew from Horta to Spain: Bonnie and Rick Salsman, Al Salsman, Rob Salsman We left Halifax, N.S. in June 2007, sailed to Horta, and explored the Azores for a month. [...]
Extra:
The info below is a copy and paste from some literature about the Slocum 43. Please excuse the platitudes. Although I may like them , they are not truly mine. Aisling I is a 1987 Slocum 43, designed by Stan Huntingford. She has been designed to satisfy the sailor who wants the blue water, "get [...]
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Aisling I's Photos - Aisling I (Main)
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