We left Charleston on Monday morning but we couldn't pull out too early because just a mile south is a restricted bascule bridge that doesn't open until the rush hour traffic is gone after 9 o'clock. But we were there waiting for the first morning opening with a group of other boats. Several of the other boats we've been seeing on and off since the Erie Canal and it's rather funny that despite the decisions we all make about whether to sail on a particular day or layover, or to sail 20 miles or 50, it seems that we all end up in the same vicinity as each other. I guess it's the mode of transportation that is the governing factor.

Within a day's travel we would be in Georgia and we were trying to decide whether to continue down the ICW or "bump out" and travel off-shore down the coast. Going inside would allow us to see the sights while going offshore would be much faster. We debated about what to do because Georgia has a reputation for being rather shallow and there are few towns along the ICW unlike many of the other states. As we travelled towards Beaufort (this time pronounced beew-fort) and Hilton Head Island we focused on the weather forecasts and studied the coastal charts. Unfortunately we had our minds made up for us because the forecasts for the next 4-5 days called for south winds (the direction we were going) of about 20-25 knots and so we decided that rather than sit somewhere waiting for favourable weather we would continue on down the ICW which we could easily do despite the forecasted weather.

So we continued on in the knowledge that we would be motoring for another few days. I've taken to calling the boat a "swaler" - that is combination between a sailboat and a trawler since we're done so much motoring since we left home. In fact, we have doubled the engine hours on our new engine since we left Whitby. We found a protected anchorage in the Wright River just a mile north of the Savannah River which is the border between South Carolina and Georgia and spent a peaceful last night in the salt marshes of South Carolina.

The next morning we continued on by crossing the Savannah River into Georgia but decided to leave going the 7 miles upriver into Savannah itself for the next time when Cindy and I can see it together. The ICW in Georgia follows a circuitous route among the salt-flats and across several ocean sounds which indent the coast, and to travel the approximately 100 miles necessary to transverse the state from north to south one must travel about 138 miles because of the numerous switchbacks and dog-legs in the channels.

Still Georgia has a raw, unspoiled beauty that I found rather compelling and I found myself wondering why the state has such a bad reputation among cruisers. To be sure, Georgia has some extreme tides that in many places exceed 8 feet and that these can create some very interesting currents with which one must contend. It's true the tides can limit travel time for many boats. But, all of this was true, to some degree, in all of the other states that we passed through.

It seems to me that Georgia suffers from a fundamental public relations conundrum that is partially of its own making and partially undeserved. Most cruisers, long before reaching Georgia, have travelled many miles and many days through the low country and salt marshes of the Carolinas and by the time one reaches Georgia you seen just about enough of them for a lifetime. Many cruisers are growing weary and Georgia is a long time coming, but still there are many miles to go to reach the ultimate destinations of South Florida or Bahamas. Georgia, for its part, seems to pay little attention to the tourism potential of the ICW and there are few opportunities (in comparison to other states) to stop in convenient seaside towns and to interact with the local population. So, for many, Georgia becomes an obstacle to get behind you rather than a delight to which one looks forward.

Our own journey through Georgia seemed to quickly follow the pattern of so many others cruisers. The first opportunity to stop, at Thunderbolt, gave the opportunity to easily seem Savannah by car but alas was immediately over the border and we were there early in the day so chose to move on. The other easy opportunity came 2 days later at Brunswick which is a few short miles from the Florida border and the draw of the Sunshine State became very strong. So our trek through Georgia consisted of 3 days; 3 anchorages (Bass Creek off the Parrot River, Cattle Pen Creek (see above picture) and Lanier Island); and zero dollars spent in the state. But the anchorages were wonderful, secluded, safe and teeming with wildlife. The scenery, at many times, was as beautiful as we had seen anywhere on our trip. Yet, we found ourselves focusing on reaching its southern border so we could move on to other things.

So the enigma that is Georgia remains and likely won't be easily solved. Still, it's a beautiful spot and I'd encourage everyone to see it, at least, once.


I've posted a few new pictures of Georgia. Enjoy the natural beauty.