When guests arrive it's difficult to know whether to try to get to as many islands as possible whilst they are aboard or to limit the visits and take more time looking around and investigating fewer islands in greater detail.

A quandary best left with the guests.

Saying goodbye to Gt Guana Cay today we head for Man O War - this will be a short but brisk sail, maybe 2 hours, and with the end of yesterday's gusts reduced now to only 30 knots we soon pick up good speed to 5.8 knots under a reefed jib.

We approach the narrow channel entrance into Man O War Cay at half tide, going up, which is always the best option. Ugly brown coral arms reach out into the channel and a milky shallow to port makes it look even more narrow than it is. We spend a relaxing few hours walking the sandy paths of the island, up through the little town and onto the Queens Highway - no cars in sight, no traffic lights, and barely enough room for two golf carts to pass without one pulling off to the side - hard to imagine such places still exist.

Leaving next day for Elbow Cay we pass an energetic couple rowing out into the lumpy waters. Dedicated to the job they hardly look up as we pass by.

It's a bright start but the day soon has us hunting for our waterproofs. Dark clouds are developing apace over our destination about an hour away.

Oilies that have hardly seen the light of day for months, are scrambled - crumpled, creased and lacking tlc I tug them from the stowage - an out of the way, almost inaccessible hole for the things we hardly ever use. We look like tramps next to Bill&Gill in their smart waterproofs.

During this time the fishing line which has been trailing behind us suddenly whirrs into life. Bill looks at Gill, Gill looks at William, William looks at me and suddenly we are laughing - which poor soul will be asked to leave the dry cockpit to check whether we have a fish or just weed?

William dejectly reels in another ton and half of sargasso weed - surely there's a recipe that it could be used for?

We pick up a mooring ball off Hopetown but leave going ashore til next day - although it's only 4pm we all seem extremely tired and put this down to the fresh air of the last few days.