Los Grullos.
10 March 2011 | San Blas Islands, Panama
Mark
The Wednesday Boat count on the SSB net did not mention any boats at their Los Grullos or Gunboat, two places in more or less the same direction that we wanted to see so we weighed anchor and headed W. We had to sail between two parallel reefs until we came to a cut to let us out to the open water, but there was a nice 10 kt. breeze at just about 90* apparent so it was a delightful sail at 5.5-6.0 kts. and since most of the trip was to leeward of a reef, the water was flat. Can't beat that! As we approached Los Grullos, I could see with binoculars that neither it nor Gunboat had a boat anchored there. Los Grullos comprises an interlocking series of reefs forming almost a complete circle around two islands one of which has a Kuna Hotel and Restaurant. The other is deserted. The guide book describes anchoring right off the dock of the hotel, but the deserted island looked better to us. We dropped sail and motored in carefully staying in the deep (60-70') water and avoiding the reef and shoals (1-2'). In the guide book, on the chart plotter, and by eyeball it looked like there was a narrow strip of appropriately shallow water in which to anchor over sand. The shoal approaching it rose to only 15' and would have made an OK anchorage, but these shoals are often marl instead of sand and that does not offer good holding , so we proceeded on. The water dropped back to 70'. As we approached the island it rose slowly to 60', 50', 40'. We finally dropped the hook quite close to the island but still in 25' of water deeper than either the chart plotter or guide book suggested. By eyeball it was clear that any closer to the island, the depths dropped dramatically. So we dropped in 25' over sand, let out 150' and got an instant and solid set. We added the kellet, another 40' of chain (we are now hanging in 60' of water and I wanted the kellet on the bottom) then the bridle and another 30'. I sure am glad we bought that 400' of chain last year. We now have out more chain than we owned last time we were here. I swam the anchor as always and was amazed that I could easily see the kellet on the bottom (in 60') and follow the chain all the way in to a totally buried anchor. We are set for a peaceful night. We are just E of the point of the island so we still get a nice breeze and the water is totally flat because of all the surrounding reefs. Now to see what those reefs look like. As I was swimming the anchor, I continued toward shore and confirmed that we really could not get close enough to drop the anchor in water that was significantly shallower. It went from 25' to 5' very abruptly and anchoring on such a slope was an invitation to dragging. Much better to be where we are in a gently sloping section with a good set. I did, however, notice that right at the sharp up slope was a lot of nice coral beginning @ 20' and dropping to 50' or so. It seemed to stretch quite a distance both E and W. Perfect hookah territory. Later we took the dinghy ashore and while Deb walked the beach beautifully clean and sandy I snorkeled some of the reef near shore. Only 5-6' of water, but very healthy reef and lots of fish. I was even able to swim outside the reef and only be in 10-12' of water and it was even nicer. Outside is a relative term here because there are several broken rings of reef (think onion) that surround the two islands. What is outside one reef is inside the next. Makes for really great snorkeling or diving. As the afternoon wore on, first one then a second boat arrived at our location. The first anchored exactly where the guide book says (amazing how people do that it doesn't even look like a good spot to me), and the second went up between the islands (with a reef between him and us) and anchored in what I am guessing must be very deep water. Anyway the three of us are spread out enough that it is fine and with the Kuna Hotel here, we were not alone anyway. At 5:00 I mixed gin & tonics, but down the shade/privacy curtains, and colored Deb's hair in the cockpit. (Two requirements of my doing her hair: we do it over cocktails and we are both naked (too hot to wear the plastic cape and it saves on staining clothes). Nachos and fajitas for dinner, a brief stint in the net to watch stars, and early bed. Tomorrow we will visit the hotel and do some snorkeling / hookahing.