Last night at the albergue pilgrims dinner the subject turned to shoes. As you enter the facility there's a big closet with racks filled with an assortment of footwear. Pilgrims are expected to take off their hiking gear and deposit them on a shelf to avoid tracking dirt all over the place. Dick, from California, was lamenting his shoe experience on the Camino. His favorite hiking boots bit the dust shortly before his departure. He took them in for repair, but they were declared DOA. That put him in the position of embarking on the journey with untested foot companions. He started in new boots which gave him blisters, then switched to trail shoes. His feet were hurting, so plan C was sandals. Hopefully that works as he's running out of options. We are very pleased with our Hoka trail shoes which are serving us well. At this point they are rather dusty and the tread is showing signs of wear (after 350+ miles you would too). We're debating whether we should burn or bronze them when we get home. We started the day in darkness, on a path paralleling the road which meant we were listening to sounds of traffic while sucking in diesel fumes. Now wait, someone said this was supposed to be the prettiest part of the Camino. Scenery picked up as we crossed the Puente del Paso Honoroso, a 19 arch bridge from the 13th century made famous by a knight who had been rejected by the lady who was the object of his affections. He put an iron collar around his neck and conducted a jousting tournament for 2 weeks, taking on all comers. After defeating 300 contestants he removed the collar from his neck, declaring himself to be freed from the bondages of love. Good to know he finally moved on. We passed through Hospital de Orbigo, Villares de Orbigo and Santibanez de Valdeiglesias as the accompanying terrain turned to rolling hills. This is just a little warm up for the mountains looming in the distance. On the way into San Justo de la Vega near the Cross of Santo Toribio we could see Astorga in the distance as our first troubadour/ flamenco guitarist serenaded the pilgrims urging us onward. The music was nice, but the thought of chocolate, one of Astorga's claims to fame, is what kept us going. Just may have to substitute chocolate for arrival beverages.