Coming down the mountain
06 October 2019 | Triacastela, Spain
Andrea Berndt | Misty
The mist that seemed so enchanting yesterday was not as welcome this morning. We left O Cebreiro in the dark wearing our headlamps and ponchos as the mist was coming at a steady stream, almost like a rain. We were glad we'd scouted out the trail the night before. We were an hour down the trail before the sky became light without any sort of sunrise delight we've come to know. Walking down the hill on wet, leaf covered paths was a tad dicey and we were thankful for our poles. Yesterday we thought we were at the third highest point on the Camino, as hyped in all the literature until the subject of Alto do Poio comes up. While O Cebreiro gets the credit, Alto do Poio is actually 30 feet higher. And of course we had to go down and then up. Leave no hill unclimbed must be the Camino motto. We made multiple stops, fortified by cake and coffee, as we walked through clouds up and down hill. When we finally began our descent down the mountain for real, it was a welcome change from our Cruz de Ferro experience. The path was wide and the descent gradual with spectacular scenery. At one point we were making our way through a little farming community whose road was under construction. As we debated turning versus going straight, a Mother Teresa lookalike beckoned us forward. Gotta love those little old Spanish ladies... they have a way of keeping you straight. She also had a plate in her hand with homemade crepes. She "gave" us one for a donation, and pleased with our generosity, offered to make more. We begged off and continued on. Sometimes you have to share the trail and today we encountered multiple herds of cattle on the move. The first time they were coming at us, so we quickly moved to a side to make sure we didn't get trampled. Then I had an awful thought. Please don't let any of those cows get the urge and lift a tail. Dodging cow pies on the trail is one thing. Not sure I'd ever get the smell out of our clothes if we ended up in the line of fire. Fortunately the herd passed without incident. The second time we encountered a herd, it was on the path in front and going the same way. Was a good time for a break to give them a chance to get to their destination. We made it to Tricastela by early afternoon.