We have had our first open sea voyage today. Fifteen or so miles along the coast of Martinique. Now I know that doesn't sound very impressive but yachts are slow things. They take a long time to get places but when you arrive you have all your belongings with you rather than a suitcase. It was a downwind leg with quite big waves so a considerable amount of stowing for sea was required. Even so the bottles in the drinks cabinet built into the dining table clanked alarmingly and I had several anxious moments with regard to the bottles of rum held within.

It is hard physical work sailing a boat downwind with a following sea. My shoulders were aching about an hour in but then I was distracted by the arrival of a pod of dolphins who played with us for a while, One minute they are leaping in front of the bow and the next they are riding the wake. And they do look like they are smiling. I'm always happy when running with dolphins. It is just so lovely.

On the way we passed Diamond Rock as we have so many times before. It is a forbidding peak of sheer rock and the waves are huge and the wind temperamental. But the history of the rock is fascinating. In the Napoleonic wars, when Martinique changed hands between Britain and France more times than the fingers on two hands, Nelson decided that if he had a spare ship, which he didn't, he would post it exactly where the rock stood. So they took the rock, climbing up the cliffs hauling canon behind them, hoisted the jack and called it HMS Diamond Rock. And they remained there for eighteen months giving any French ships seeking to retake Martinique a run for their money. But then Nelson’s attentions were called elsewhere, the rock was lost and eventually Martinique.

We arrived in Grand Anse d’Arlets in good order. It is a lovely sheltered anchorage with clear water, great snorkelling and some cute small bars and restaurants ashore. We have been coming here since Alexander was nine years old and he always had a huge burger and chips in a little restaurant that was so close to the water he would have a quick dip between courses. I expect we will go tomorrow but it is the chicken Colombo, simmered in a lovely blend of creole spices that we will go for. We rarely eat off the boat but we know this restaurant is reliable. And then a petit sieste I think!

Highlight of the day after the dolphins was a piping hot shower. Even if the engine is on for just a little while it heats the water very quickly. Colin has mended the water pressure pump, and of course the engine, so I had my first hot shower in weeks and my first shower without having to wrap my foot in cling film. My chief engineer is very talented. He polished the fuel and then blew it back into the system. Are you lost now? Well I am. But I'm as impressed by that as he is impressed by my ability to sail the boat in difficult situations and faster than the others.

I'm really pleased to be started on the adventure. We will stay here a couple of days to do a few more jobs of work and then off to Fort de France, the capital of Martinique, to buy some fan belts for the water maker which, yes you've guessed, is currently broken.

So au revoir Diamond Rock. À la prochaine!