Anthem Adrift

22 May 2024 | Approaching Lee Stocking Island
20 May 2024 | Elizabeth Harbour, George Town
18 May 2024 | Elizabeth Harbour, George Town
17 May 2024 | Elizabeth Harbour, George Town
16 May 2024 | Elizabeth Harbour, George Town
14 May 2024 | Elizabeth Harbour, George Town
12 May 2024 | En Route George Town
11 May 2024 | En Route Castle Island
10 May 2024 | Great Inagua, Bahamas
10 May 2024 | Matthew Town, Bahamas
08 May 2024 | En Route South Caicos
04 May 2024 | En Route Grand Turk
01 May 2024 | Puerto Rico
30 April 2024 | Puerto Rico
28 April 2024 | Puerto Rico
21 April 2024 | USVI
20 April 2024 | USVI
16 April 2024 | USVI
15 April 2024 | USVI
14 April 2024 | USVI

En Router

22 May 2024 | Approaching Lee Stocking Island
Tuesday 21 May 2024

"'ve gotta ask yourself a question: Do I feel lucky? Well do ya
punk?" DHL office in George Town may receive part today. May not.
Jan believes that holding my breath until turning blue won't work as
well as with mom. She could be right. Bedsides that, it's a lot of
work and red is a better color for me.

"We'll call you when it comes in." Not feeling the luck.


No matter, as friends on Aussie Anthem came in yesterday. Enjoyed with
them a not outrageously priced dinner at Eddie's Edgewater Cafe and
reflected on the famous words of Scarlet O'Hara, "tamorrah is anothah
day." Local beer, Kalik (pronounced click, not ka lick) also helped
temper disappointment.
"If not actually disgruntled, he was far from being gruntled."
- P. G. Wodehouse (although sounding appropriately humorous, gruntled
is an actual word)

0910. Received call from Armbree (DHL) that router has arrived.
Heading to shore.

Immediately after return to boat, coffee with mates to say goodbye,
then off we went. Didn't have a chance to play with new toy until
underway. Jan kept us out of trouble through shallow departure.

A bit of trouble with new router as provided power supply produces only
30 volts (probably for use as mesh (relay) router, although no
reference to that) plus setup interrupted. Finally, connection to old
fifty seven volt power and a factory reset got us up and running.
Then, feeling lucky and smug without a .44 magnum in my face, connected
twelve to fifty seven volt boost converter and viola! We in bidness.
Boat inverter (twelve vdc inverted to one fifteen vac, which is
converted back to fifty seven vdc) no longer required.

Anchoring at Leaf Cay for the night where pink iguanas are reported to
hang out. Jan, a serious iguanaphile, must go commune with the big
lizards. Pink, so she says they're all girls. Okaaaaay... but then
how do baby iguanas happen?

Jack & Jan

Advancing Adagio

20 May 2024 | Elizabeth Harbour, George Town
Sunday 19 May 2024

Winston Churchill:
"I am fond of pigs. Dogs look up to us. Cats look down on us. Pigs
treat us as equals."
We are fond of pigs as well, but they have a regrettably fatal flaw.
They're tasty. Went to Chat'n'Chill for their famous Sunday Pig Roast.
Thanks Babe. We also managed to each force down a couple rum punches.
This was early afternoon, so nothing useful accomplished rest of day.


Earlier yesterday moved boat from Stocking Island nearer George Town.
Move incentivized by waves crashing under shore overhang and neighbor
who runs portable generator until midnight. Shorter dinghy ride now to
DHL office and breakfast at Peace & Plenty. National holiday extension
of Whitsunday into today has nearly everything closed, but hoping
courier and hotel restaurant open. Arrival of router will likely have
us leaving next day for slow sail north. Almost no wind forecast next
several days, but a wee bit tomorrow.

Never mind breakfast. Jan, thwarted from Sunday pancakes yesterday,
insists this morning. She loves her banana/blueberry pancakes. They
are indeed awfully good with butter and real Canadian (almost as good
as Vermont) maple syrup. Probably go ashore later to buy engine oil
from petrol station. Expect to change out half new, half old oil from
Castle Island snafu.

No oil at filling station. NAPA, two and a half miles up the coast,
closed on holiday, will have it tomorrow... maybe. Therefore, can't
change oil today. Oh fiddlesticks (or similar even less sincere word).
DHL also closed, but bought a few things at market and extracted Bahama
bucks, which cannot be exchanged outside this country, in luxurious air
conditioned comfort from RBC ATM. Jan remained outside kiosk in
sweltering heat because she's weird.

Jack & Jan

Conched Out

18 May 2024 | Elizabeth Harbour, George Town
Saturday 18 May 2024

Well, color me orange and call me a kumquat. Good news: Received
contact from customs this morning. May get router sometime in
foreseeable future. Bad news: Customs's ransom, seventy four dollars,
eighty cents, US, which, added to shipping, one hundred, ninety eight
dollars, forty eight cents, US, is higher than retail price of new
router had we not gotten it replaced "free". One caveat on good news:
It ain't here yet.

Came across Elizabeth Harbour to Peace and Plenty this morning to enjoy
surprisingly reasonable eggs, corned beef hash and grits in air
conditioning and to buy petrol for dinghy. Procrastinating now as long
as possible before returning to boat where wooden shower grate
collapsed last night. Hoping to cut leftover Corian from countertop
replacement for temporary (maybe permanent) fix in lieu of other
projects that need attention. Fun never ends.

Jigsaw worked a treat until battery ran down. Charger now indicating
it's bad - flashing red and green. Planned on two layers for strength
and to make flush. Arrrrgh! Most of first panel cut, so aspiring to
get enough power to finish the one and hope it doesn't crash through -
living life on the edge of danger. Writing this twaddle in meantime.

After seeing that battery was taking some charge, carefully perused
charger to noticed a bit of corrosion on one of three sensors. Cleaned
up and charger doing it's thing. We in bidness.

Chat'n'Chill much different from last time here. Must have gotten hit
by a hurricane. Conchburger and rum punches, however, are the same.
Yum! Tomorrow, their Sunday pig roast. Yum!

Jack & Jan

Don't Ask, Don't Tell

17 May 2024 | Elizabeth Harbour, George Town
Friday 17 May 2024

Don't tell Jan because she might expect similar in future, but fixed generator fuel problem and completed installations of Boomlock and Starlink wiring. All of it; all done. This highly unusual productivity will, barring markedly increased levels of insanity, seldom be repeated. Jan and friends dinked to town for shopping, so technical crew could apply himself without letting on that he could.

Antares, trying to leave today, has encountered wind at zip, zero, nada. Will be here until at least tomorrow, but little forecast then either. No worries. Fish fry tonight at Shirley's just north of George Town. Although no Catholics on crew and anyway the church abandoned this restriction, we observe fish Friday whenever possible because we loves our, as the Kiwis say, "fush 'n' chups". Does anyone wonder what happened to all those souls doing eternity in purgatory on a now defunct 'meat rap'?

Delivery of router to George Town was to be today. Bahamas?.. should know better. Package still apparently in Nassau, stuck in customs until they can be bothered to take a look. What need to hurry? All required paperwork has been sent through courier who handles clearance. Told they would get in touch with delivery information when package released. Cost to ship this small bit from Jacksonville, FL, one hundred, ninety eight dollars, forty eight cents, USD. Have no idea yet about duty and tax. New router costs two fifty, but this is replacement for defective unit to a yacht in transit. Expecting the worst.

- Later

Having previously spent over an hour finding someone at DHL or customs to contact, just received information that it will be next week before anything happens and Monday is a holiday. Good thing we like George Town.

Jack & Jan

Boat Time - Island Time

16 May 2024 | Elizabeth Harbour, George Town
Wednesday 15 May 2024

Starlink router tracking shows here Friday. For some reason have not run out of mobile data. Maybe Batelco isn't paying attention. Big draw on data is hotspot to computer, mostly at boat, so after Friday might not need high dollar top-up.

Pretty torpid day on the ship. Jan did two loads of laundry in the Splendide while maintenance crew reattached a few speaker wires. Wiped out after grueling day, we'll go over to Antares for drinks with them and an English couple, Kim & Anne on SV Ilana, who will be leaving tomorrow, headed north. Probably see them again.


Wicked Scottish/Singaporean crew on Antares forced us last night, forced I say, to choke down enormous dosages of rum. Seemed such a good idea at the time; bit less this morning. Nevertheless, have a couple projects for the day including installation of Scott Boomlock boom controller/preventer and wiring of switched dc power for Starlink. Each job should get knocked out in an hour or so. This means, given my typical estimational proclivities, if worked at tenaciously they could be finished in three or four days assuming desire to have these items operational outlives the time it takes to install them. Confidence running about average.

Case in point concerning delays on above maintenance times. Generator died while Jan washed a last load of clothes. Now hot and sweaty after changing fuel filter, checking lift pump and finally replacing pump with spare. Discovered wiring backward, i.e. red wire negative, black wire positive. OK then, how did original pump run generator until now? Temporary operation continued for finishing wash, then will reattach old pump wired correctly to see if OK. Still time to install Boomlock and dc wire before end of next week... or, for sure, the week after.

Jack & Jan

Almost Like Home

14 May 2024 | Elizabeth Harbour, George Town
Monday 13 May 2024

Long Island, about three and a half nm at its widest and less than a half in spots, is fifty six long, ergo the name. Spent all night going past before turning west across north end, angling in for south entrance to Elizabeth Harbour. Not possible with two meter draft to sail shorter track over very shallow bank direct George Town.

Wind finally increased to five knots ahead of beam causing slight surface ripples and giving ten knots of wind over deck for cooling. Very comfortable yesterday afternoon and actually chilly overnight.

Finally picked up mobile service abeam Little Harbour. Happy to have, but minimal use has dipped over five gb into ten purchased. This is going to be either expensive until Starlink operational or lightly used. Maybe Chat'n'Chill, Peace & Plenty or St Francis Resort has free wifi. Starlink router out for delivery to mail forwarder today. May get DHL'd tomorrow and be in hand end of week. We be back on grid in a trice! That's the theory.

Last push into destination (ETA 1000). Generator is topping up battery and water. Important to get settled off Stocking Island across from George Town, check with mates to plan evening drinking.. (eating) and buy groceries. Jan hates shopping... loves markets.


Today's itinerary: Once Sleepyhead gets caught up from overnight sail - breakfast at Peace & Plenty followed by visits to chandlery for rope clutch then electronics store for barrel connector to power Starlink from battery. Probably go back to Exuma Market before returning to boat.

Love Exumas. Last here in 2013 not long after buying Hylas. Left boat moored in Stocking Island (third hole) to fly Singapore for Jan's first knee replacement. Probably explore town a bit after shopping to see if much has changed since then - unlikely.

Fewer than a hundred boats currently near George Town. This is a large, shallow, anchorable (probably not a real word) harbour, so sparsely populated as crews head north to escape hurricanes. Missed Family Island Regatta last month when several hundred boats are typically in residence. Quite the hoot with speaker arrays in town square the size of small houses pumping at a volume that induces brain damage in those walking too close. Music is even loud over a mile away at Stocking. Heard a couple boats sank this year. Shaken apart by gargantuan woofers? Great fun!

Jack & Jan

It Was Too Oily

12 May 2024 | En Route George Town
Sunday 12 May 2024

Realizing that engine oil was past due, got up early and changed it and generator's as well (new motor so done early) including new filters. So here's what happened. Was not yet convinced to do generator until placing valve in wrong position (early, right?) and draining all its oil. Then thinking engine was dry and inspired to do both tried to drain generator. It was empty, of course. What about noticing valve position you might ask.. don't. Still not quite realizing what had happened (very early!), filled engine and discovered it was way over-filled. Epiphany! Dumped extra: half new, half old. Finally got all sorted, but not wanting to redo engine, left it partially serviced. Will change again in George Town after twenty six hour run to get there. Jan had time to feed me coffee (should have done sooner) fix Sunday pancake breakfast and still leave anchorage to arrive well before noon tomorrow.

Weather weasel got it right, unfortunately in this case, as wind has deserted entirely. One good aspect is air moving at boat speed over deck, so cooler than yesterday. Surface so glassy that if not for occasional patch of sargassum could not tell without observing wake that boat is moving at all.

Good thing generator is operating as engine charging is not. When scraping up enough energy will try to locate problem. Fuse is good so could be alternator, regulator or a connection that has pulled loose. Until figuring how to stabilize shaking wires several years ago, that last thing periodically occurred and is now hoped for easiest fix.

Received cellular signal when several miles south of Castle Island, but none in anchorage. Will send previous two entries plus this one approaching Long Island tonight. Then... voila! there will be a muchness of malarkey; a preponderance of piffle; a tortuosity of twaddle.

Jack & Jan

P.S. Regulator dead. Probably have to ship one in from US. Pshaw! (or stronger words to that effect)

Ahead, Behind and Onward

11 May 2024 | En Route Castle Island
Saturday 11 May 2024

Strong frontal activity in north Florida and along Georgia coast
bringing severe storms has not made it to Bahamas due a blocking ridge,
leaving us with virtually no wind. Will remain this way at least until
Monday night and Tuesday. Expect to have motored into George Town by
then. In fact, wind is a about boat speed directly behind, making air
over deck close to zero. Hot, humid, still.

Mr. Musk shipped new Starlink router Thursday (personally?), ahead of
schedule. Anticipate arrival at mail forwarder around time we make
George Town. Could be in hand before end of week. That's the theory
anyway. May be able to check tracking tonight.

Had a troup of wee, spotted dolphins follow for awhile. Cute little
guys, they leaped high out of the water. And why? Because they could.
Have to look up to find out which species. No matter how often we see
them, it's always a thrill. Pretty sure they're smarter than we are.

With favorable current will be anchored almost two hours before sunset
if selected location is smooth. Otherwise have time to move up west
side of Aklins to a possibly better spot. Two good sleeps before
overnight tomorrow.

South end Aklins Island appears sparsely populated, but reported to
have mobile service. If so, will send this off. Otherwise Sunday
night abeam Clarence Town, Long Island.

Jack & Jan

Rolling Along

10 May 2024 | Great Inagua, Bahamas
Friday 10 May 2024

As expected after our arrival into open roadstead on west coast of
Great Inagua, wind died, let boat turn sideways to swell and roll.
After clearing in and buying sim, probably stay ashore until close to
departure time. Distance to Aklins slightly too long for day trip and
too short to leave until late afternoon for post sunrise arrival.

- Later

Friendly folks, easy check-in and excellent grill near inner boat
harbour (spell check doesn't understand this is former British).
Anchored too close to entrance, so when asked to move, motored a couple
hours north to Man O' War Bay where more protected. Since closer to
Aklin we can leave early tomorrow, get there before dark and enjoy
decent sleep tonight. Plus, had time for a wee snorkle over bommies
and a transom shower with no paparazzi around to photo our naughty bits
for the National Enquirer.

As expected, Batelco charged more for ten gb data each (absolute
maximum sold) than Starlink charges for unlimited data from satellite.
At least online top-up is available so we can spend even more money,
but at least stay online. They seem very proud that standard three gb
data will roll over from previous month. Thanks guys. No doubt a
great boon for people who don't have any idea what to do with data.

Dinner and a movie (to avoid using internet, found hard drives with
lots of movies), then early to bed in very quiet and calm anchorage.
Sweet dreams.

Jack & Jan

Up Yours

10 May 2024 | Matthew Town, Bahamas
Thursday 9 May 2024

One look at South Caicos and Jan decided we should move on. Anchor set
also iffy. Went to customs to clear out and pay $50 departure fee just
after 1500. Told agent we would be leaving immediately, but she wanted
a specific time, so said 1700. Charged additional $10 for overtime.
But, we explained, she would not be working any overtime. However, she
claimed, we were leaving after work hours and that's overtime.
Elucidated to her that she had tricked us and changed departure to
1630. Unimpressed, said she had already made out receipt and claimed
we just didn't want to pay an extra $10. Pushing back, we suggested
that she was deceitful and dishonest and we took offence at being
scammed (not in those exact words as, although half of us are vulgar
Americans, Jan is Canadian and would not allow rudeness.. she did,
however, fume expressively as we walked back to dinghy). In a huff
agent completed new receipt and accepted $50. The adventure continues.
We weighed anchor at 1610.

Made good time overnight although several miles off course, but by late
morning installed pole to starboard, jibed main to head directly to
Matthew Town and rolled out genny. Speed picked up nicely ensuring
arrival well before dark. Expect morning clearance into Bahamas,
purchase of sim card for internet and departure late day for short
overnight to Aklins bereft of meaningful wind. Save waiting for
several days, unlikely to have any breeze for final push to George Town
either, so probably diesel in on Monday.

Our Scottish mate, Ken (almost as ancient as me), because he doesn't
have insurance for America was going to cancel sail with us to Nova
Scotia, head Aruba to store boat and fly home, Singapore, for, as he
said, a medical tune-up before transiting the Panama Canal and sailing
back across Pacific. Being thoughtful and kind we claimed to
understand, that his health was most important. Adrian, our great
Aussie friend, told Ken he was a selfish bastard for abandoning us.
He's now decided to go along up East Coast. Wish I'd told him that
first. Jan's an inappropriate and aggravating good influence.

Jack & Jan
Vessel Name: Anthem
Vessel Make/Model: 1997 Hylas 46
Hailing Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
Crew: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes
Jack: Formerly productive member of the community as a Northwest Airlines Captain who retired to become a drain on, and embarrassment to, polite society. [...]
While I will be delighted if anyone else enjoys these excursions into semi-intelligible foolishness, the primary purpose is personal amusement. This is not travelogue, cruising guide or philosophical exploration of anything in particular, merely random musing of a slightly twisted mind. Despite [...]
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S/V Anthem

Who: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes
Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
For a better map select "View Tracking" and click "+" below "Google" left lower of Sailblogs map. Download .kml file and open with Google Earth. See full profile for information on why this mess is being foisted upon an innocent world and for information on contact. Don't be a stranger.
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