Aaaaarrrrh!

Friday 26 May 2023

Underway. Checkout this morning from Croatia to Montenegro, quick and easy - short hop to a small country - ETA 1800. Entire cruising area, beginning to end, is about 15 NM. We'll stay in marina for a couple of weeks, then putt around a bit. Tours from Tivat are reputed to be the dog's bollix so we'll do that to see interior.

Generator packed up last night so it, plus freezer, will receive professional remediation ASAP - he assumed with credulous confidence. Numerous other items are on long list to keep resident maintenance division unscathed by ennui for a significant span (as if there will ever be an end). This contingent actually remained aboard yesterday to perform work as balance of crew and pax continued exploration of Old Town. Suspicion running rampant that they had more fun... and ice cream. Every easy task inevitably morphs into an energy and enthusiasm sapping brawl with malevolent inanimate devices.

Saturday

After sailing around the world, visiting over sixty countries including Portugal, Spain, Italy, Turkey, Greece and Croatia in Europe with no issues, we have been decreed by Montenegro to not be competent to move our boat in their waters without an international license which is, we have now learned, promoted by the EU. They, by the way, are not members. We were required to bring a marina employee captain aboard while I drove boat from custom's dock to a berth. How we get out of their territory for sail to Malta is yet to be determined. US Coast Guard Master's License was allowed to lapse in 2012 as we would not be in America for several years. Although US allows a year's grace, apparently this country has determined that incompetence ensues immediately. Awaiting possible dispensation from USCG, but might not be acceptable in any event.

Sunday

Jan & Lesley are engaging in daylong tour to visit a monastery while maintenance crew remain behind to work or malinger as the mood strikes. Having seen many interesting, even spectacular, monasteries in several countries, the jaded contingent has had a surfeit of them. Anyway, what could be more fun than ripping out deck hatch gasket, scraping off sealer applied in Didim yard that sticks tenaciously to deck, but not to gasket and reinstalling with proper material? Let the merriment begin.

Jack & Jan

Scradin

Friday 19 May 2023

During interim since last entry we've been as far north as Zadar, spent a day holding on to our keesters as thirty five knots plowed us around anchorage in Murter, visited an amazing series of cascades in Skradin and explored several really charming towns along Dalmatian coast and adjacent islands. Despite really wretched weather until recently, have had an excellent experience: delicious food, good local wine and even a pint or two of Guinness. Now back in Split for tonight. Would have gone to reportedly even more awesome waterfalls in Plitvica Park, but area was flooded out with extended deluge. Expect arrival back in Dubrovnik by Tuesday, twenty third, to see more of that wonderful town before clearing out to Montenegro. Although cruising season has not started, coastal waters are chock-a-block with charter boats. Wharfs are still three and four deep in small cruising ships awaiting the real onslaught, so glad we're leaving now. Pleased we came early to avoid crowds and also because prices, although high, are not yet astronomical.

Saturday

Reveled in two days of sun and even some usable breeze, but now cloudy with rain forecast beginning tomorrow for several days and no wind until we stop getting scientific insights from children - could be awhile. Pshaw! or stronger words to that effect. Fortunately we have lots of fuel - expensive fuel. Should be able to make Malta without a refill where diesel is some of cheapest in the Med and still much higher than US.

In addition to prescient adolescents, has anyone noticed that Paul Ehrlich, "The Population Bomb", is still given credibility after over fifty years of being continually and spectacularly wrong as global population more than doubled and current anxiety is that it will now stop growing? Few remember, but intellectual elites in the day were also fretting about onset of a new ice age. Humans are the preeminent species on the planet because we are stunningly adaptable and will, if allowed, i.e. not scared stupid, continue to be. For some perspective, suggest Steven Pinker's, "Enlightenment Now".

"Prediction is very difficult, especially about the future."
- Niels Bohr

"There are many methods for predicting the future. For example, you can read horoscopes, tea leaves, tarot cards, or crystal balls. Collectively, these methods are known as "nutty methods." Or you can put well-researched facts into sophisticated computer models, more commonly referred to as "a complete waste of time."
- Scott Adams

Jack & Jan

Great Wall at Ston

Saturday 6 May 2023

Cavtat is a pretty little town situated on and between two bays. Like most everywhere else in the Mediterranean, virtually all buildings are light colored stucco with orange tile roofs. That's one of the (pardon me for saying so) charms of the place. We did our best to check out every store, restaurant, cafe and bar.

Originally anchored, after several tries, on one of the few sand looking spots, but holding was marginal. Fortunately next day we were blocking access to a work barge, so moved around the bay a bit to an excellent spot. Good thing as minimal wind turned into over twenty knots overnight. Anchor retrieval this morning brought up a pile of dirt and roots and no sea grass.

Lesley arrived Thursday night from west coast of North America, then we semi-woke her early next morning from virtual catatonia to take forty five minute ferry into Dubrovnik. Remarkably charming (apologies again) town. It was massively shelled during the 90's war, but has been rebuilt as original. If you watched Game of Thrones you're familiar with the place.

Sunday

Motored (no wind) to small bay on channel south of Ston, where we backed up to pier of Niko's Restaurant. No mooring fee if dining. Amazing feast of fish cakes, mussels, oysters, tuna and vegetables with a local wine (Plavac Mali) very much like red zinfandel. Everything was excellent except grappa digestif - nasty bad. Fortunately we had only a short waddle back to the boat.

Drove car up to Ston today for walk along the Great Wall... yes, there's more than one. This one protected the area salt ponds, valuable like gold in the day. Back to boat without stopping for coffee (arrrrrgh!) then off we went for thirty five NM motor (no wind again) to Badija Monastery where we went ashore, circum-perambulated the place, played with tame deer then sat on quay drinking local beer to watch sunset. Croatians make some good brew.. this was not it.

Monday

Slept well, but now up early for forty three NM motor (no wind yet again) to Vis. Presumably we'll slow the hectic pace in Split (second largest city in Croatia, real name) to relax a bit. Sucks hurrying to see everything due Schengen limits. Montenegro and Albania (non-Schengen) should prove a wee bit more relaxed. (Self-delusion - it never is)

Jack & Jan

Cavtat

Sunday 30 April 2023

Crossing to Croatia is quite pleasant except for incessant racket of exploding diesel. Boat motion is minimal; watermaker keeps tanks full; hot water is always available for showers.

But, (have you noticed the extravagant number of buts and howevers?) after having none in Greece, approach to coast of Albania has inundated us with hundreds, nay thousands, of tiny flies. They're annoying, but don't bite and Jan, "The Fly Slayer", is having a field day. Began a nap to sound of swatting and awoke an hour and a half later to same. Now, an hour after that, death toll continues to mount yet numbers don't diminish. Similarly to what one airline's employees said of their customers, "they're being born faster than we can piss them off".

Have slowed to a crawl so as not to arrive Cavtat (near agent and closest to Dubrovnik Airport) before sunrise. Until we acquire local sims, Greek mobile service is reported to work for up to 12Gb (Eurozone rule) at no extra charge, but we'll just have to see about that. Google Fi was good near Albania, so that's an option as well - can't cope when cut off from the grid. SV Inspiration Ladys, currently in St. Maarten and shortly bound for England, are installing mobile Starlink. Their experience will inform our future.

After seeing precious few fishing boats anywhere in the Mediterranean, coasts of Albania and Montenegro have been lousy with them. Began playing dodgem overnight. Don't know what they catch, but restaurants where we've located have almost exclusively served farm-raised sea bass, sea bream and salmon. Mediterranean, very low on plankton, has a commensurately small wild fish population.

Monday

Arrived Cavtat just after daylight. Took a few tries to get any purchase with ground tackle as posidonia is nearly everywhere and even clearish spots don't hold well. Besides the anchor, we also put out a fair weight of chain. Tonight is only forecast breeze of any note for several days, so if we get through until tomorrow, should be good until departure after Lesley's Thursday night arrival. Dragging, given forecast wind, would be across a relatively shallow, long bay... he said hopefully.

Agent brought paperwork, took us to petrol station (not close), is checking on park fees, gave us good local information and will pick up Lesley on Thursday night - Kuna well spent.

Tuesday

Still in place! Good sign. Feel safe to go ashore once rain stops early afternoon to maybe get sim. Tried at recommended newsstand yesterday, but they only sold sims for ten days and then needed a new sim?? What up widdat? We'll try post office today. Greek sim works fine for now, although limited in roaming Gb.

So here we are listening to Best of Gordon Lightfoot who died yesterday at eighty four. We're both great fans. RIP.
"I shall not wholly die, and a great part of me will escape the grave."
- Horace

Jack & Jan

Old Fortress

Friday 28 April 2023

Paxos is so nice that shuttles take visitors away from Corfu, which is
pretty darn high on the doesn't suck list itself. Well-protected
harbor on north end and pretty village. Great stop for staging.

In Corfu rented a Fiat Panda to get, among other things, transit log
stamped by Port Police then eventually returned to customs. Although
the island is a very popular tourist destination and expensive, two
days car rental was cheap, 35 euro - must still be off-season. Uber
from harbor to Port Police and Customs is 30 euro each way.

Driving on Corfu is an adventure in chaos. It is both tiring and
liberating in a way. Drivers pay scant attention to rules, but
everyone seems to maintain awareness, expecting that. This differs
from most places we've rented where laws and rules are widely adhered
to so drivers may be less alert to divergent behavior. Local system in
this turmoil must work as few cars are scratched or dented. Boldness
up to a point is rewarded.

On the promontory that contained the old Byzantine town of Corfu,
Venetians built a spectacular fortress that was sieged three times by
Ottomans and never taken. That sounds pretty good until you realize
the garrison didn't allow many residents inside. They were all killed
or carried off as slaves and the rest of the island was looted and
destroyed. Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent was probably OK with that.

Corfu is a labyrinth of alleys and narrow streets that contain a
multitude of shops, restaurants, cafes and bars. It's vibrant and
great fun. Dining and drinking is a bit expensive, compared to
elsewhere we've been in Greece, but excellent. Next time you're in the
area, stop by. You won't be sorry.

We anchored in a perfect bay with three dinghy docks, top, bottom and
middle, right by old town. There is, however, a big but involved as
the bottom is nearly all posidonia, a sea grass so thick that few
anchors can get purchase on the bottom. The few sandy spots are
quickly taken and during crowded summer season, Bora winds reportedly
make epidemic anchor dragging quite the sport.

Saturday

Could have stayed another day, but decided to make for Dubrovnik this
morning. Short two night sail past Albania and Montegegro is misnamed
as there's no wind and none expected. Good thing we topped fuel in
Lefkada. After burning the last of our ninety day Schengen visa in
Croatia by 28 May we'll come back to both for a month or so as they're
non-EU. Montenegro is highly reviewed. Albania not so much.

Not wanting another kerfuffle with authorities, hired an agent who will
handle all clearances in and out, save hours of extra boat movement and
deliver friend Lesley from airport. Worth every kuna (still used along
with euro).

Finally, as election silly season is beginning in the US, a little
reality from G.K. Chesterton:
"The whole modern world has divided itself into Conservatives and
Progressives. The business of Progressives is to go on making mistakes.
The business of Conservatives is to prevent mistakes from being
corrected."

Jack & Jan

Floating Bridge

Sunday 23 April 2023

Contrary to any reasonable expectation from rewiring masthead, anchor and tricolor navigation lights are now operational. We can dispense with battery powered, flashing 'fisherman's' lights acquired in Indonesia for advertising our position at night. Strobe still lifeless. As power OK at base of mast will check connection and unit next time up. Again reset wind transducer, but not hopeful for success.

Wind-free motoring up to Lefkada was short and uneventful. Many charter yachts coming down Lefkas Canal. Fuel low and dock open so topped off diesel at 1.94 euro a liter. That's around 8.07 USD a gallon. Yowzer! Probably won't need a refill until Malta at 1.21 euro/liter.

Monday

Having squeezed piggy bank buying fuel and not wanting to spend 86E at marina with anchoring prohibited, went on free wall by road to mainland bridge we will pass through in the morning. Would not do it again. A concrete ledge sticks out over half a meter just below waterline waiting to gouge bottom. Fortunately wind kept us off and helpful Brit brought over tires he was using to keep us safe as he was departing for Preveza. Jan also not amused by extensive, loud road traffic until late evening. Nevertheless, Lefkada is a cool town with quayside open-air restaurants and a real Irish pub, closed until 1800. Have to wait, however, until Corfu to get a Kilkenny or Guinness as we ate a huge meal for lunch and skipped dinner with its obligatory beer.

Warning advice to avoid Port Police unless required seems apt as getting transit log stamped was a chore, first finding the office, then with grumpy bureaucrat who wanted to check all paperwork that allowed us to originally get TL or we wouldn't have one. He managed without. PP are part of Coast Guard and those guys seem nice. Perhaps it's a crap job.

Tuesday

Aforementioned floating bridge has ramps at either end that lift perpendicular before it pivots around to the side for passage. Only similar we've seen is in Willemstad, Curacao, but that's only for pedestrians.

Destination for the day is Paxos south of Corfu allowing two short days rather than a really long one. Arising before 0700 or 0900, depending on crewmember, is not a special pleasure. Anyway, bridge doesn't open before 0700, which would delay arrival Corfu town until, probably, dark. Sometimes happens, but arriving busy harbors after sunset also not a plaisir serieux (a little French lingo).

Jack & Jan

Thursday 20 April 2023

Leaving today for Lefkas after less than perfect stay on Kefalonia. Tribulation recounted in last post was just a Cliff's Notes of what also included a significant amount of misinformation conveyed by authorities in Argostoli. After extensive questioning of agent think we have scoop on staying out of trouble for rest of stay in Greece. Next challenge: staying out of jail in Croatia. TBD.

Friday

Nydri on Lefkas is a cool town with very protected harbor. Lots of opportunity to eat, drink and mess around. Lovely dinner last night of gyro on pita and copious quantities of wine. We're currently enjoying an exhilarating morning of laundry on the waterfront before even more merriment climbing mast to (hopefully) fix wind instrument and lights. After that: washing down topsides from dinghy and whatever else we feel obligated to do instead of lying down and whimpering plaintively. The amusement never ends.

Climbed mast to discover ground wire on lights in wrong position on connection block. Due awkward access from mast steps and fact that slots don't open when securing screws loosened, impossible to relocate after trying for a hour, so brought block down to add additional wire tails. Barring complete incapacitation from today's exertions (not a preposterous concern) expect to go back up tomorrow for reinstallation. Might even work.

Also checked wind transducer and it seems to have gone irrevocably tango uniform. Will try to locate new one in Dubrovnic in two weeks. Meantime will use old standby to show apparent wind direction, ribbons on shrouds. Yowzer, just like real old-timey sailors.

And just to prove conscientiousness, despite massive evidence to the contrary, also fixed loose wire on starboard overhead solar panel. It now works and all together the four panels are keeping lithium battery topped up. It's magic. About the only thing we need generator for is hot showers - we don't do cold.

Jack & Jan

Strawberry Pancakes

Friday 14 April 2023

Seems that nearly everyone here speaks English, at least in Argostoli. Bit of a change from Sicily for us parochial North Americans. Thanks Britain for having the biggest empire in history and making English the worldwide lingua franca.

Moved up bay for wind this afternoon to a beautiful little harbor at Agia Effimia, small town with lots of cafes.

Saturday

Three layer strawberry pancakes for breakfast on the quay. AB market for fruits, veggies, eggs and restocking of adult beverages. Except for inefficient and overtly threatening bureaucracy Greece has so far been a delight.

Sunday

Sailed east to Ithaki island's Port Vathy before expected rain. Well-protected bay surrounded by a beautiful little town. Unfortunately afternoon and evening showers kept us aboat for the evening. Hope to get a break tomorrow for a visit.

Monday

As spring slowly wears on temperatures seem to be getting cooler. High today forecast sixteen. Entire crew wearing woolies. Just read that water temps never get above twenty five degrees even in the depth of summer. For a number of reasons including visa issues, Mediterranean sojourn shaping up to be much like is said of boat ownership for many: two happiest days are the beginning and the end. As with all adventures, glad we had them, but sometimes even happier to reminisce over sundowners in a cockpit with friends.

Wednesday

After being accosted by Greek Coast Guard for anchoring wrong place in Fiskardo where we had previously been told to move from original location, stepped from frying pan into fire as they checked a transit log we didn't have due cruising tax we had been told was unpaid. Spent delightful day with coasties then on whatsapp with agent getting everything sorted. Turns out we had bad information and only needed to prove that money had been sent not that it had to be recorded on website, which can apparently take a month. Could have done that last week. They're apparently not required to accept proof from foreign bank, but did. Official suggested we should have opened a Greek bank account... for two and a half weeks... right! Agent brought transit log by evening and we retrieved confiscated passports. The wages of our sin was measured in euro. Except for unpleasant person (evil witch) in Argostoli, officials have been OK. And we still love Greece... for about another week and a half before heading to Croatia. And another kerfuffle? Hope not.

Jack & Jan

Thursday 13 April 2023

Monday afternoon landfall in Greece, city of Argostoli on the largest Ionian island, Kefalonia. Tried to check in and get transit log next morning, but were told we must first prove payment of cruising tax online to Bank of Greece with code from registration previously done. Payment through Revolut had been refused twice. Next attempted other means. No joy. Apparently it's too difficult to put credit card or Paypal on website although those are supposedly accepted for direct payment. Since US banks, unlike nearly everywhere else on earth, does not do b2b transfers, tried Jan's Royal Bank of Canada. After sending request, screen indicated that it could not be guaranteed within five (or ten days according to one phone contact in, probably, India) and could not be canceled. Port police person emphasized that we would be fined a thousand euro if not completed in three days. We did what any honest, well intentioned cruisers who like to follow other country's rules would do, we took off this morning to hide out until transfer goes through. Expect to check in now in Lefkas next week (also because PP woman was notably unfriendly) assuming proper proof gets onto e-Tepai website from central bank. If none of this works out we may be able to pay at post office (which claims they don't do it any more) or at another bank that will send to correct bank in Athens for subsequent posting, maybe. A suggestion this is slightly disorganized could be onto something.

Shame we couldn't explore more of Argostoli as, despite derogatory comments by at least one cruiser, it's a charming town. Of course, after Licata, almost any place might seem so. There are a plethora (yes, that many) of nice shops, bars and cafes. The place is neat with little trash and cars are virtually all bigger than jelly beans.

Heading today to Sami on the east coast of Kef for protection from wind and to explore local caves. Next day short hop to top end of same bay for wind shift back north. Will subsequently contemplate further maneuvering to accommodate forecast rain, but little wind, Sunday through Friday.

After having no service on iPhone Xs from Vodafone last two weeks in Italy, happy to report excellent reception with Cosmote. My hotspot even works albeit idiosyncratically. Sim and unlimited 4G for a month - 10.90 euro per phone. Jan's 11 has done well everywhere, so assume some recalcitrance from older phone. Replacement 13 pro en route with BFF Lesley on 4 May to Dubrovnic. Looking forward to her visit and easier check-in to Croatia.

Jack & Jan

Sunday 9 April 2023

Seems that in the Mediterranean GRIBs (Gibbering Response, Invariably Befitting) that are issued every six hours are not even accurate until next update. Each new download is often significantly different from last. Expecting good wind on port quarter we have trifling on the stern. Now forecast to remain until late. Running motor; using fuel. Unusually nice breeze yesterday got us far enough along in case wind never returns, but expect, of course, too much by midnight. Appears we could have very late landfall tomorrow.

Canadian mates are leaving Eastern Caribbean in May for Atlantic crossing to UK. Want us to join them. Prospect of berthing on the Thames in downtown London, visiting scotch distilleries and touring Guinness brewery in Dublin is enticing, but we're tired of cold weather and EU rules. Britain probably easier, but our Old World glass is half empty. We'll return sometime in a jet. Seems that Europeans want visitors to fly in for a couple of weeks, leave buckets of cash, then bugger off. We'll do that third thing.

- Later

After running through a series of showers, wind finally picked up this evening - increasing speed, good direction. In unlikely event this continues without getting too boisterous could make anchorage before Tuesday, maybe even by dark.

Although in this blog deprecated, Europe is really an amazing place with history up the wazoo (technical archeological and historical expression). Everyone should come explore the comfortable ambience of sometimes beautiful and picturesque old cities as they continue their centuries-long decline. Don't expect the dynamism you'll find in Asia and America.

Jack & Jan