Anthem Adrift

21 October 2021 | En Route Milos
20 October 2021 | Elafonisos, Peleponnese
18 October 2021 | Elafonisos, Peleponnese
16 October 2021 | Ioniian Sea
13 October 2021 | South of Sicily
11 October 2021 | Carloforte, Sardinia
08 October 2021 | Mahon, Menorca
07 October 2021 | Mahon, Menorca
01 October 2021 | En Route Porto Colom
29 September 2021 | En Route Palma
28 September 2021 | Coasting Formentera
27 September 2021 | Formentera
25 September 2021 | En Route Formentera
23 September 2021 | Aquadulce
18 September 2021 | En Route Aguadulce
17 September 2021 | Gibraltar
15 September 2021 | Gibraltar
11 September 2021 | En Route Gibraltar
09 September 2021 | Cadiz
06 September 2021 | Downstream From Portimao


21 October 2021 | En Route Milos
Thursday 21 October 2021

Temperature eighteen this morning, but didn't feel that cool. Previously froze our cha chas off at twenty. Must be acclimating to autumn.

Big draw of Agia Marina is a beautifully preserved wreck in clear water. We'll leave that for next time. It's an open roadstead reported always rolly and was indeed last night, but being there saved two hours for sail to Milos. Not surprisingly we were only boat overnight.

While retrieving anchor this morning chain was hard on the bottom sinking bow as 1200w windlass was able. Had visions of putting gear on after dawn for a dive to free it. Fortunately it was caught beneath, probably, a rock ledge and, by releasing some chain and attaching snubber to protect windlass, freed by motoring ahead and to the side.

If you were born after the Y2K panic/non-event (a thought provoking lesson about submitting to angst concerning anything touted as a crisis) you probably don't appreciate what didn't exist in 2000. Even older folks have likely forgotten and accept current reality as how it's suppose to be, but a quick look back, (e.g., may give everyone a better appreciation of the amazing advances over a very short time period. Might be nice if a few more people would understand some real and obvious yet disparaged or seldom considered foundations for that progress. Don't rely on loudest voices for an answer.

Jack & Jan

Careenin' The Aegean

20 October 2021 | Elafonisos, Peleponnese

Tuesday 19 October 2021

The two other boats in this anchorage and several next bay over are gone.
Something we said.. didn't say? Hope they don't know something we don't, but
should. As per previous entry reference going in water to check hull, decided
we're one 'really' short and two just not enough. Chill wind is blowing up to
twenty and relevant crew congenitally remiss. Perhaps tomorrow. Also, despite
lackadaisical attitude, a couple of chores must be done: oil change on Yanmar
and finding something loose in overhead that thumps back and forth above sea
berth as boat rolls. Half of crew is deaf, but distaff contingent is not.

- Later

Oil changed; engine happy. However, after tearing out overhead then back of one
locker (engendering jubilation in galley wench as stove and associated
countertop are strewn with debris and locker contents are removed and scattered
about cabin and she won't let me put them back because it won't then get done
properly) no clue has yet surfaced for what is making knocking noise when boat


If wind eases shortly as forecast or probably if it doesn't we'll run over to
southeast tip of Peloponnese, about ten nm, to shorten tomorrow's trip to
Kleftiko Caves on Milos. That will be our longest daysail crossing the Aegean,
almost sixty nm with mostly adverse current having only an eleven hour day to
arrive before sunset.

Nothing else to write except condolences to family and friends of Colin Powell,
an estimable fellow, who died from the effects of covid probably because,
although vaccinated, his immune system was compromised by multiple myeloma, a
bone marrow cancer that killed my father, which did not allow a protective
response. His death is not an excuse to avoid vaccination. Despite the lies,
incompetence and manipulation by authorities and media, unless you have a good
reason (paranoia doesn't count), getting shot is in your best interest. Live
long and prosper.

Jack & Jan

It's Greek To Me

18 October 2021 | Elafonisos, Peleponnese
I Surrender in Greek

Monday 18 October 2021

Greeks are known for shipping and boy howdy we can vouch for that. Sailing along bottom of Peleponnese toward anchorage off Elafonisos we were bouncing back and forth like a lethargic pachinko ball to avoid getting run down.

Home for next two full days is small bay called Agios Elena beside two other boats enjoying sparkling sunshine and crystal clear, albeit chilly, water. This end of Greece is hilly and rocky with sparse vegetation. If really, really, really zestful, perky and passionate may climb into wet suit next day or two and hop in. Boat hasn't been slowed too much by bottom growth, but wouldn't hurt to check and polish prop.

After three multi-day passages covering 950nm mostly motoring with brief stops will be nice to rest for a few. Adverse wind keeps us stationary until Thursday. Not much ashore but wouldn't venture onto land anyway due not legally here.

Finally heard from Turkish agent in Didim, our destination. Sent off all requested paperwork with ETA. Probably get there next Monday after day-sails across Greek Aegean assuming we don't get apprehended and shot... Oh wait, heard Europeans are civilized and don't do that. "I surrender" in Greek alphabet as shown in Google translate is unintelligible. Have no idea how it's pronounced. Have three days left on Schengen visa so could possibly finesse a short time entry/exit if anybody speaks English or French or perhaps a soupcon of Spanish.

Here are a few news headlines you might find interesting.

From Sky News on La Palma, Canary Islands:
"'There are no signs that an end of the eruption is imminent even though this is the greatest desire of everyone', President Angel Víctor Torres said at a Socialist party conference in Valencia..." *Perhaps he's unaware that volcanos are seldom swayed by public opinion - awareness of reality often escapes utopians.*

Two from CNN:
"While boosters are becoming widely available, there�'s also concern that an additional shot could widen the gap between vaccinated Americans and those skeptical of the vaccines�' efficacy." *So... stop giving boosters???*

"Chlamydia is so widespread among koalas, researchers are vaccinating them." *Apparently the randy little rascals do more than sleep and eat eucalyptus.*

Jack & Jan

Mondane 'til Monday

16 October 2021 | Ioniian Sea
Pozzallo Town Hall

Thursday 14 October 2021

Arrived Pozzallo early morning just ahead of big wind and tied securely to dock. Not much in way of amenities for cost, but the one marinero (dock guy) we interacted with was very good. All paperwork and payment was electronic so never saw any other marina people. Had passports stamped by carabinieri and dined ashore in the afternoon.


This morning bought produce, relaxed with croissant and latte at a cafe, then around 1400 swung around to nearby dock for top up of water and fuel before departing. Assuming 1.25 USD per Euro and 3.5 liters per gallon, the diesel cost 7.23 dollars per US gallon. Short layover here and not much to see. Pozzallo, Sicily, is a bit down in the tooth.


Although Ionian Sea rough, wind is stronger than forecast to help stabilize boat, so it's been reasonably comfortable so far. Wind forecast to ease by midday, but not sea, so expect rest of day to be a wee bit awkward. Nights are very chilly even with cockpit enclosure and days surprisingly warm.

- Afternoon

As supposed, meter and a half sea on the beam and a mere zephyr directly aft. Waves forecast to drop to a meter around midnight, then slowly decrease next two days to half a meter, remaining side-on. Not comfortable without sails, but could be worse. Wind may get, if possible, even lighter requiring noise-maker until dropping hook at destination off Elafonisos Monday. After arrival Peloponnisos, probably have no more overnight passages this year as we contemplate day-hopping through Aegean islands.

Well, due my not feeling very snarky, this was pretty boring. Maybe next time.

"If you don't think every day is a good day, just try missing one."
- Robert Cavett

Jack & Jan

Sea That

13 October 2021 | South of Sicily
Tuesday 12 October 2021

Someone may have noticed that pictures have lately begun accompanying most blog entries. Newfound diligence is due switching from dedicated camera to iPhone for recording surroundings. Since the thing is always at hand and easily transfers results to MacBook, laziness is now little deterrent to inclusions. Unless additional languor ensues expect this practice to continue. If for some recondite reason a burst of energy overwhelms me, may even add to "Gallery", which has been endowed exactly twice, in 2009 and again in 2017.

Theories are mixed, but the idea of Seven Seas probably originated in ancient Europe. Cursory look around the globe discovers far more than seven if you're looking for seas and not oceans. However, if one looks only at the Mediterranean that's exactly the number not counting the Med itself: Balearic (between Balearics and Spain), Ligurian (south and east of Monaco and the Cote d'Azure), Tyrrhenian (surrounded by Italy, Sicily, Corsica and Sardinia), Ionian (below Italian boot, west of Greece), Adriatic (between Italy and coast from Croatia to Albania), Aegean (between Greece and Turkey) and Sea of Crete (surrounding Crete). It's not the world ocean, but at two thousand nautical miles end to end, not to be scoffed at and around its waters Mesopotamian, Egyptian, Phoenician, Etruscan, Greek, Roman, Persian, Byzantine, Ottoman and European Union civilizations flourished. Might have missed a couple and just kidding about that last one. Empire building culminated, once they stopped painting their faces, realized how much wealth they could acquire and built a bunch of heavily armed ships, with the British who ruled the largest empire in history. They're not really in the Med except for Gibraltar, Malta & Cyprus and at one time Ionia & Menorca, but are mostly European with Norman ancestors plus some Vikings, French, Flemings, Bretons and the odd Anglo-Saxon. Besides once colonizing a huge chunk of the world, Brits are known for warm beer, steak and kidney pie, spotted dick and as architects of the Enlightenment, none of which seem very popular any more.


South Coast of Sicily is a hundred fifty nm across, a full day of sailing. Currently abeam west end, floating slowly along downwind, trying to make Pozzallo without starting noisy propulsion device before big winds come around tomorrow afternoon. GRIB (Gosh, you Really Intend to Believe it?) indicates helpful current and better winds shortly. We'll just have to see about that.

Jack & Jan

Informed Judgment

11 October 2021 | Carloforte, Sardinia
Marine Sifredi in Carloforte

Saturday 9 October 2021

Weather wasn't going to get significantly better, so left last evening then sailed somewhat slowly to await passing of a little burst of fun blowing down from France. May not have helped much as wind, not unusually, was stronger than forecast so enjoyed twenty five knots for several hours before then experiencing very little.


Carloforte is a lovely town on an island off SW coast of Sardinia. Very nice, reasonably priced marina with clean, modern facilities, WiFi and friendly, helpful staff. New forecast, unfortunately, won't allow staying until Tuesday as previously planned. Three night passage to Sicily where wind expected to howl Thursday night requires we be in harbor that morning. After that looks like may have only one night there to make arrival in Greece before strong wind hits following Tuesday. Now see why this time of year is past normal cruising season in Med as strong winds predominate. Once in Peloponnese all passages can be day-sails with no hurry. We can go to protected, but isolated anchorages and wait aboard for good wind as long as we don't get discovered by fastidious authorities.

Good news. Dr. Fauci has authorized releasing the kinder on Halloween to demand treats from neighbors and threaten mischief if such (they better be sugary or fattening and not apples or oranges) are not forthcoming. Apparently he has not commanded they be sent out, there may have been some discretion for risk assessment allowed to parents, but you should confirm so as not to run afoul of any decrees from your authoritarian overlords. It's all for your own good and let's face it, bureaucrats are smarter than you and can make decisions about your and your children's live's better than you can.

Jack & Jan

Being Somebody

08 October 2021 | Mahon, Menorca
More Mahon

Friday 8 October 2021

Ignorance was not bliss nor even relevant yesterday as wind began blowing us cross bay through soupy bottom. Thought enough time had elapsed for anchor to work its way down to a solid hold, but no. Moving around to Cala Teulera where we'll stay for the duration was no drama and with calmer conditions nearby boat's halyards, whose inhabitants are either deaf or inured to loud noises, have stopped clanging. Near gale abated early last evening so should be able to leave Anthem alone while we go ashore to explore and provision.

Finished season four of The Crown with some relief. Although British royalty seems as fascinating to many Americans as are our own performing arts celebrities, we did fight a war two hundred forty odd years ago to escape their influence. The portrayals, while no doubt colored somewhat by the producers and actors biases, shows a disfunctional family living a circumscribed life of symbolic, but otherwise meaningless theater. A little harsh? Yes probably, but what a terrible life. Relatedly, many people wish to be rich and famous. Rich gives one choices. Famous gives one restrictions and paparazzi. Give some thought to dreams you pursue. Perhaps next we can find a series in which we care about most of the main characters.

Now that half of Americans and nearly every Brit or Commonwealth member (including Jan) who might stumble upon this twaddle would like to see me run over by a TR6 or MGA, let me say I understand and there are worse ways to go. UK made the coolest cars on earth and I've never bought a personal car, prior to running away to sea, that was not a British type roadster including the above two. OK, that's not much apology, but at least maybe you'll make it quick with limited suffering. Thanks.

"All my life I wanted to be somebody. Now I see that I should have been more specific."
- Lilly Tomlin

Jack & Jan

About Time

07 October 2021 | Mahon, Menorca

Thursday 7 October 2021

Mahon is a good place to wait out Mistral that is currently blowing through well protected anchorage at twenty five gusting thirty. We've been informed that this location, about half a mile from dinghy dock, is not authorized, and we should move to a marina or another anchorage a mile further away. When asking late yesterday if we had to leave immediately, notifier refused to say we had to move, only that someone else might come today to inform us that this is not an authorized anchorage. Right. Enthusiasm for relocating through narrow passage to new, congested place in these conditions is minimal. Since plan is to depart early Saturday morning for Sardinia, may attempt to ignore insinuation until then.

Center city, on a plateau above the harbor, is very nice. Unfortunately, due rain and wind, have spent little time ashore and not likely today, but perhaps tomorrow for groceries. Did get to local distillery that makes gin tasty enough that we bought four bottles. Like everywhere else we've been in Portugal and Spain, businesses get busy late morning, go dormant during afternoon, then revive in earnest as the sun descends. Many restaurants don't reopen until eight pm and virtually none serve food between four and seven. Exceptions are ice cream, coffee and adult beverages, available nearly anytime. Hope Didim and Bodrum are a bit more flexible.

Delay in Balearics may require us to clear out of Europe from southern Sardinia, nearly two hundred miles from here (winds prevent going north as originally planned) and almost a thousand miles from Turkey. One advantage of this is having a few days left in ninety limit to clear back in if waylaid when stopping periodically in out of the way spots to rest while pussyfooting through Sicily and Greece. Nonstop passage would take a week.

"Time is that quality of nature which keeps events from happening all at once. Lately it doesn't seem to be working." - Anonymous

Jack & Jan

Clearly Inconsequential

01 October 2021 | En Route Porto Colom
Arab Baths

Friday October 1 2021

Another somewhat early go to make Porto Colom on east coast of Mallorca in
daylight. Tomorrow may go further up coast to stage for daysail over to Mahon,
Menorca, where we expect to have a few days to explore due hiding from Mistral.
Although not nearly so large as Cyprus or even Crete, this island (52nm east to
west, 42 north to south) is more than twice the size of the Isle of Skye whence
comes Talisker scotch (nectar of the gods) and takes awhile to get around. No
worries about seeing a sunrise as it's cloudy and rainy. This is not necessarily
a better alternative.

In one way rain is a blessing as Gibraltar area is very dusty and lackadaisical
maintenance crew neglected to wash deck before departing La Linea. Surprisingly
old, ragged bimini material, slathered with water-proofing in Florida, maintains
its barrier. Downside is that everywhere chemical touched vinyl windows they
became opaque yellow. That's OK. Seeing out of cockpit is probably overrated.
New enclosure is one of many interventions visualized in Turkey to put the girl

Clearing Cap Blanc we've passed thirteen sailboats proceeding opposite direction
into Bahia de Palma we've just left. Makes one wonder if they know something
we'll regret we don't. Not much concern at the moment as sea is flat and wind
on close reach is barely enough to keep us moving at four and a half knots with
every scrap of sail flying.

- Later

Rain has come in earnest along with inconstant wind so we'll motor last two
hours and enjoy a quiet night if sky doesn't clear. Otherwise three dinghy
docks are available near restaurants, one of which might be pleased to have our
patronage as tourist season winds down.

So, to wrap this up with words of wisdom, just remember, "A day without wine is
like... who cares".

Jack & Jan

Indolent and Miserly

29 September 2021 | En Route Palma

Wednesday 29 September 2021

As we departed Portinatx this morning the sun was just peeking above the horizon off Punta Galera lighthouse. Jan took a picture with her Samsung S8+ and checked the appropriate box in her 'been there, done that' file so she would never have to see another sunrise. If ever tempted she can look at the photo, go meh! and roll over until a more civilized hour. Rest of crew, who is not exactly morning people either, at least appreciates the quiet and serenity in the first glimmers of daylight when finding it necessary to drag his lazy caboose out of the warm embrace of slumber.

As happens, waking so early was not completely necessary as a helpful current is hustling us on our way for a late afternoon arrival. This was predicted by latest GRIB (Gentle Reminder that it Isn't Believable), but one cannot count on such things. Although closest anchorage to Palma town center is a cumbersome distance, amenities are nearby and buses are available. Marina in town is a hundred twenty Euro a night and requires Med mooring. For those unfamiliar that requires dropping the anchor or picking up a line attached to the bottom to hold bow then backing between other boats onto a dock or quay. This can be a bit sporty without a thruster or when crosswinds blow, but usually a reasonable exercise. Our primary issue besides cost is that with a dinghy hanging off the transom and no passareille, getting on and off is a challenge. When occasionally necessary we can enter ahead and offload over the bow or float dink and tie it off forward. As at least half the crew is both cheap and lazy it's usually more felicitous to anchor.

Jack & Jan
Vessel Name: Anthem
Vessel Make/Model: 1997 Hylas 46
Hailing Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
Crew: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes
Jack: Formerly productive member of the community as a Northwest Airlines Captain who retired to become a drain on, and embarrassment to, polite society. [...]
While I will be delighted if anyone else enjoys these excursions into semi-intelligible foolishness, the primary purpose is personal amusement. This is not travelogue, cruising guide or philosophical exploration of anything in particular, merely random musing of a slightly twisted mind. Despite [...]
Home Page:
Anthem's Photos - Main
5 Photos
Created 2 January 2017
Waterfall, etc.
5 Photos
Created 19 May 2009

S/V Anthem

Who: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes
Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
For a better map select "View Tracking" and click "+" below "Google" left lower of Sailblogs map. Download .kml file and open with Google Earth. See full profile for information on why this mess is being foisted upon an innocent world and for information on contact. Don't be a stranger.
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