Anthem Adrift

15 November 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
10 November 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
04 November 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
03 November 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
29 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
27 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
26 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
22 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
21 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
19 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
16 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
05 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
29 September 2019 | Grenada
27 September 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
20 September 2019 | Overnight to Grenada
14 September 2019 | To Barbados Day 4
12 September 2019 | To Barbados Day 2
11 September 2019 | To Barbados Day 1
07 September 2019 | Waterland Marina
04 September 2019 | Waterland Marina

Relative Happiness

15 November 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
Wednesday 13 November 2019

The ides. Yes, it falls on the 13th in November. We're rapidly hobbling toward end of year as hip improvement has reached a plateau. Have been able to carefully put full weight on bum leg for a week, but still can't walk without crutch or poorly with cane. This is discouraging on many levels, not least of which is that although doctors indicated it would be six weeks, I expected two. Three weeks Friday. Still plan departure, end of month, at five.


Late night at what has become our favorite place on the island, The Brewery, with brisket burger, ale and terrific music. Of musicians and styles, enjoyed the widest variety since we've been attending from Woody Guthrie to an a cappella aria. All of it entertaining including schmoozing with other, semi-sober cruiser trash.


Three weeks post-op and only yesterday regained ability to walk, without crutch, slowly and carefully, for a short distance, sometimes, without a limp... before crumbling into a quivering heap. This is very annoying. Before any of you or anyone you know or care about decides to break his hip, contact me. Most of you will be advised against. Oh sure, there are perks; you receive a modicum of sympathy and get to wallow in indolence, but the drugs aren't that good (location dependent) and it plays hell with your aspirations to join the Rockettes, skydive and run with the bulls in Pamplona. All things considered, it's just not worth the aggravation.

Cruiser's Reef, new restaurant at Clarke's Court Marina in next bay, has happy hour at 1600 and music starting 1830 so it's yet another party night. Understand they have free shuttle to fetch us otherwise may try dinghy for first time in awhile. Could use our taxi driver of choice, Ish (Ishmael, yes he has read Moby Dick), a Brit whose family are from here. He's the proud progenitor of week old Anthony (don't call him Tony) so needs the business to maintain his new ground tackle. Our happiness for him is exceeded only by our pleasure at not having any of our own.

Jack & Jan

Snide Aside

10 November 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
Sunday 10 November 2019

Life has gone rather boring here and snarkiness quotient is way down, so although have plenty of time, idle hands have not gotten into much devilry, ergo not much to write about.

Propane system was indeed renovated with correct part from Budget Marine and Jan is sewing her fingers to a nub finishing dinghy chaps, making more jerry can covers and replacing plastic clips on their hold-down straps, but otherwise we squander our time watching Netflix on the telly while abusing alcohol. Actually that's a misnomer. Abusing alcohol would entail something like spilling a gin and tonic - we're abusing our livers. This self-indulgent subterfuge is similar to professing a war on drugs or gun control. It's people who are being controlled, generally the ones who shouldn't be, leaving bad actors unaffected and everyone less free. That's OK though, because making personal decisions is such a bother and we feel really good about ourselves in the meantime.

Weather has gotten a bit less warm and humid so should be out clearing deck of marks and rust spots and polishing stainless, but laziness is more addictive than the pain medication doctors are panicked about prescribing. Little do they appreciate that physical inertia shortens lives and we can much more easily become mentally deficient, destroy our bodies and disrupt the social fabric with gin, rum and red wine, which as added bonus taste better than opiates.

Well, there you go, managed to scrape up a little crankiness. Mom would be so proud. The rudest diatribe journey starts with first nice words.

Jack & Jan


04 November 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
Monday 4 November 2019

Wally World didn't have either needed boat part and no doctor had time today, so we go to Budget Marine early and ortho at 1500 tomorrow. Trip worth the effort, however, as mail from forwarder was retrieved and met nice couple that we may visit passing by Wilmington, North Carolina, on our way up to Nova Scotia in 2021 assuming earth hasn't been destroyed a few years earlier than forecast.

Saw in news that Trump has said US will cease all participation in Paris Agreement on climate change mitigation at earliest possible withdrawal date, 4 November 2020. For those who have sufficient perspective for a couple of ironies, that's a day after election where he may be voted out of office and of all the signatories to the agreement, the US has decreased carbon emissions the most, a circumstance that has been ongoing since 2005. No message (except possibly to think past tribal demagogueries), just a couple things to contemplate.

Jack & Jan

Cut And Run

03 November 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
Wednesday 30 October 2019

No space at this billet for tonight, so it's off to Days Inn near MIA. Pickup tomorrow at 0850 should get us to airport in plenty of time for 1124 flight. Sorry not able to revisit the area as we brought our Hylas to the Miami Sailboat Show immediately after purchase in 2013 to spend a stupendous amount of money fitting her out and later, after a few weeks in the Bahamas, at Dinner Key to install new equipment on new boat and receive shipment of old stuff from old boat, which had been sold in Brisbane. Coconut Grove, near marina, was a gluttonous downfall as it took literally years to shed the excess kilos acquired at its restaurants and bars. One pays for too much fun.

Notwithstanding that Miami is predominantly Cuban/Hispanic, it's very American. Culture shock after limited exposure last ten years. Anything you want, anytime, close by or available online, inexpensive with free, fast shipping. Breakfast served everywhere and over easy eggs actually cooked, you know, over easy. Bacon (referred to as streaky bacon elsewhere, seldom found and then limp) wonderfully crisp. Bottomless cups of coffee (means you can drink the stuff until you vibrate and it squirts out your ears) with meal. Similar to Jan and her organizing (a skill that escapes me), I have a fetish for breakie, a great meal.

Irish pub nearby, so tonight's plans are set. Early go tomorrow, home afternoon, boat in good shape, Grenada weather a bit cooler and drier, life is perfect.. well, except for the broken hip thing, but one should ignore trifles.


Door to door service yesterday went like clockwork. Thanks again DAN. Arrived back at boat 1530, had wee lie down, then dinner at marina restaurant. Always good to be back home in one's own crib. Slept in this morning.

Of course, expecting everything to continue working is crazy thinking. Propane not getting to stove for morning tea. Solenoid not switching so it's either bad (new in S. Africa) or not getting electricity (suspect that). Also have bimini brace to reinstall so no rest for the wicked or the weary or the wounded.. whatever. Boats are notoriously bad at encouraging slackers.

Good news. Package mailed from Florida 9 September has arrived at the St. George's post office in a mere seven weeks. Hope floats for another piece of mail sent out three weeks ago. So, he queried, should we wish that hip heals quickly so we can leave soon or more slowly allowing receipt of new debit card to replace current one splitting in half? Think we'll go with that first thing and live entirely off Jan if super glue or duct tape can't keep tattered card together.

Except for installing bimini frame, a lazy day, but tomorrow we hit the ground running.. or limping.. maybe. Used butane camper stove for morning tea, which is fine, but propane bottles were installed for a reason, gimballed stove is too expensive to ditch and extra storage is not that critical so looks like the cripple will have to get to work.


Jan took shopping bus to market in beautiful downtown St. George's this morning leaving physically challenged crew home alone figuring incapacity would keep him out of trouble. Ha, ha, I laugh at her naiveté. Regrettably she was correct.


Tropical Atlantic has again mellowed making Eastern Caribbean a safe playground so cruisers are exiting Grenada like bats from a cave at twilight. If in stock, we'll buy new propane solenoid (several month old one already rusted, inop) at chandlery tomorrow, which will provide final fix to get Anthem ready to join. Malingerer had better be ready for us to hit the misty trail by end of month or he may be lashed to front of mast like Bill Murray in "What About Bob?" to press on anyway. Although deep ache has migrated to entire leg and continues unabated, lame crew otherwise improves by the hour. Have gotten past Walter Brennan imitation from "The Real McCoys", but not by much. Expect to call local bone doc tomorrow for follow-up appointment and possibly additional drugs as ibuprofen and paracetamol don't quite hack the program.

Jack & Jan

Aching To Be Home

29 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
Monday 28 October 2019

Roommate at hospital was a fellow, Junior Dolores, who broke both legs thirteen years ago and has apparently been institutionalized ever since. Don't know how he got to Jackson Memorial, but was told he's being warehoused until they can find a permanent facility to put him in. He's ambulatory. He constantly talked to himself, the TV (which was always on loud until we asked him to lower volume, which he did), sang, groaned, grunted, complained and generally made a nuisance of himself to the nurses, which he called regularly for something or other. They were remarkably patient. Every morning around 0400 the big light came on, TV sound went up and he started his concert. In Spanish dolores means pain. The lesson is never go into hospital unless necessary and stay minimum. It's where people go to die or wish they could.

Always had sympathy for people with chronic pain as opposed, apparently, to those moralistic, self-righteous, political fabricators of public policy who prevent people from available means to deal with it. Have a whole new appreciation. A week is nothing, but gave an inkling as it takes a force of will to make any movement. Over weeks, months and years it must eventually wear you down. To not allow someone to relieve that pain is not just cruel, it's immoral. We each own our own body and nobody should have the right to tell you what to do with yours. Also, not that it ought to make any difference, but dependence on a pain killer is just not the same as addiction. Don't know whether Junior is in pain or just nuts, but suspect there's an unexplored way to find out.


Grenada is apparently very popular right now. DAN wouldn't put me in coach and couldn't find business non-stop until Thursday, so that's when we go. They arranged all transport, door to door. Should be home mid-afternoon. Diver DAN and AIG who underwrite the evac insurance have been great. Don't leave home without it.

At risk of beating a dead horse, may have shamed doctor into giving out more meds, but ones prescribed are so weak that Panadeine Extra (contains codeine and available over the counter until recently) Jan brought with us works better. Should have taken Oxynorm from boat, but who knew? Although nurses we talked to seemed to agree with me, doctors appear to have successfully rationalized that avoiding any possible harm (also to themselves getting prosecuted) by letting patients suffer is their sacred duty. Thanks guys for protecting me from myself.

Apologize for so much medical matter and, no doubt non-compelling, kvetching. Should get back to more interesting, not to say sick and twisted, content shortly. Muscle as opposed to deeper bone pain and friskiness (seldom used, highly technical medical term) improving by the hour. Should be dancing in the street with Bowie and Jagger in a week or so (Being dead, David may not be able to keep up).

Jack & Jan

Well, Well, Well?

27 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
Sunday 27 October 2019

Thigh muscles were not amused at being cut. Initially paralyzed and painful, now merely painful. Hospital has a dedicated pain team whose primary purpose is to avoid providing anything for pain. Team doctor came by to tell me he will send us back to Grenada with three days worth of ibuprofen; began bloviating about the law and if I want pain relief afterward should see an island doctor. Thanks sport. Would never imply that the people who make drug policy are hypocritical, sadistic assholes, because they almost certainly believe they're doing God's work, but all things considered, think I'll go back to South Africa and spend $12,000 out of pocket rather than get new right knee in Florida through "free" Medicare as originally envisioned.

Stumped out to Starbucks, across street from hospital, this morning hoping to meet Jan who was bringing coffee and pan au chocolat. Missed her. She and nurses a bit fussed that I sneaked out. Got back just in time for late pain meds and physical therapy (previously released by occupational therapy - different thing) so had to go do some of that. Long morning. Happy to get back in bed.

Just learned DAN will repatriate us to Grenada. Bonus. What a good deal it was joining in 2012. Will blow this popsicle stand and be back home once declared fit to fly and discharged. Since doctor has been scarce, don't know when that might be. Hoping for tomorrow.

- After 1600

Cut me loose today. Major bonus. Apartment booked through Monday night and need to do a few things including buying backpack as one brought with us self-destructed on the way. Home Tuesday if travel can be arranged. Five days round trip. Not bad. Shamed doc into giving me three days of Percocet and five days of Advil, so travel shouldn't be too ugly. Lots of oxycodone in boat left over from knee op in Cape Town. Take that self-righteous US drug warriors. I wave an appropriate finger in your general direction.

Never saw the same doctor twice and each piece of paperwork was signed by someone different. Final discharge had incorrect information on my condition and on procedure. Personal attention apparently not their forte. Confidence in Jackson Memorial suffers, however, saw post-op x-rays (presumably mine) and lead surgeon, whoever that was, seems to have done a fine job. Probably find out soon when leg doesn't collapse. Appointment made back here for 11 November - not likely to happen. May contact Dr. Guzman in Grenada for follow-up. He could barely speak English, but seemed pretty competent. If all good in two weeks, may just have Jan rip stitches out and give professional establishment a miss.

The adventure never ends.

Jack & Jan

Breaking Up Is Hard To Do

26 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
Thursday 24 October 2019

After two and a half days of lying supine in traction, we board an air
evacuation Learjet to Miami this afternoon. Original plan for flying on to
Tampa, where operates a hip guy who has done excellent work on two friends,
costs significantly more and insurance policy stipulates closest available.
Even so, transport is more than twice cost of entire knee replacement in Cape
Town. Happy closest wasn't in Venezuela. Not sure whether or not they bring us
back. There are no doubt good surgeons at Jackson Memorial's Ryder Trauma
Center. Harvard Medical School newsletter states, "An experienced surgeon could
probably do a hip replacement blindfolded because you can feel everything, and
components of the replacement are put right into the bones." Also, "A hip
replacement is a much less painful operation". Besides, there's a Starbucks and
a Panera Bread in close walking distance of hospital. One must keep his
priorities straight.


Done and dusted. Surgery yesterday afternoon. Didn't get total replacement,
but rather nail and screws. Suppose to be stronger than original. Woke up from
op in more pain than at any time during entire knee replacement, so quote in
previous paragraph is horse squeeze. Obviously mindset concerning pain in US
vs. South Africa is dramatically different. In Cape Town they realize that
controlling pain aids healing, but here, especially Florida, everyone is
paranoid about addiction and that they will be prosecuted if giving "too much"
as defined by some mush-brained, moralistic, FDA bureaucrat - it has happened.
Guessing propaganda surrounding ill-conceived and destructive War on Drugs has
effected attitudes as well.

Didn't realize that, although the bony bits don't, marrow has pain receptors.
Long nail was hammered through about three quarters of femur. Total
replacements, not requiring so much trauma, are possibly less painful, although
lots of muscle is cut gaining access both procedures. Anyway, been stumping
around with loaner crutches and now released by physical therapist. Hope to be
airborne back to Grenada Monday. Doctors skeptical, but what do they know?
Just got own crutches with a red stripe. They're fast. Woohoo!

Fortunately all major boat maintenance was completed before stupidity
intervened, except won't be able to go in water (potential infection - serious
bad mojo) to check/clean bottom and replace anodes. Jannie will acquire yet a
new role. Won't tell her this whole thing was cooked up to shirk even more
responsibility. Probably be a couple or three weeks before working a sailboat
is feasible, but should certainly be ready to bail before December. Lots of
music, craft beer and rum to soak up before then. Woohoo!

Jack & Jan


22 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
Tuesday 22 October 2019

Quick look at internal position reporting distances from Luckgrib, which are somewhat shorter than actual traveled due communication gaps, discovered that since departing Darwin 18 July, last year, we've sailed over 14,000 nm. Crikey, given circumference of earth, 21,600 nm, that's a pretty fair meander. After the Indian Ocean and several maintenance misadventures we feel like the horse that was "rode hard and put away wet". Some short distance, easy sailing for awhile will be quite congenial. Being in areas that have parts and expertise in all things boat also doesn't suck. Wouldn't want to make a habit of this sort of thing, but it's tolerable for now.

When emailing friends that we would be sailing our US flagged yacht to Cuba next year and might have to turn off AIS to keep Uncle Sam from tracking us (just kidding NSA.. know you're listening and we wouldn't think of flouting the embargo!!!), discovered that there are seventeen separate US government intelligence agencies... seventeen! None of them, including CIA, are considered best in the world. Those are probably Mossad, ISI (Pakistan) and MI6. Feeling safe now? Fortunately for us, it seems overwhelmingly unlikely anybody gives a flying fedora what Jan & I do or say... unless we go to Cuba, which we absolutely, positively will not do after exploring the Western Caribbean and before heading up the East Coast to Canada the following summer.

"Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not after you"
- Kurt Cobain (and others)

Oh, and by the way, last night while helping a UK friend put purchased used batteries into his car, the ones we bought in Suriname to get us here, Mr. Still-thinks-he's-34 leaped over a puddle of water onto a slippery boardwalk and fractured his femur. People at the St. George's University Hospital are very nice and the food's not too bad, supplemented by contraband smuggled in by Jan and witnesses to last night's exhibition, but all things considered I'd rather be in a force 10 storm on the Indian Ocean. More x-rays tomorrow to determine course of action, but we'll probably fly back to Florida for pins and screws or, more likely, a total hip replacement. This will certainly attenuate the anticipated leisurely stroll up the Lesser and Greater Antilles to Florida for the winter, but expect to be back doing additional foolish things in short order.

Breaking news (chuckle, snort): AIG Insurance for Divers Alert Network called this evening and will apparently be air ambulancing at least one member of our crew, probably the lame one, but maybe both, to Tampa for a further accumulation of metallic components. With right knee possibly getting replaced next summer reducing natural major leg joints to one, expect going through airport security will keep getting better and better.

Jack & Jan

Deadly Sin Reprise

21 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
Sunday 20 October 2019

If you didn't get hooked on Game of Thrones you probably don't give a crap, but because the season ended awhile ago nearly everyone else (and that's a goodly fraction of humanity) knew what happened well before us, so not much point in continuing this paragraph. No such luck. Despite previous conjecture, additional attrition was limited to the cute, formerly righteous Breaker of Chains who, like virtually every well-meaning individual who gains power, was corrupted and became who she was ostensibly fighting against. All things considered with a few lamentable exceptions, major players got what they wanted, deserved or had to have. Don't really know where a ninth season could go, but success walks and it would be a shame not to turn the producers and writers loose on that or something perhaps even better. It was magnificent.

Yesterday was, oddly enough as predicted, rainy. Forecast is for a dry spell this afternoon, not to be repeated for a few days, allowing an application of varnish. As this is the final major effort along with revising dinghy chaps before all restrictions are lifted for advancing north, one (in this case meaning two) hopes that subsequent prognostications are at least as defective as is typical. Removal of Hydrovane auxiliary rudder, whose mounting pin was mangled in situ from encounter with fishing stake in Suriname, required a drift, a sledge and semi-mangled fingers. Could have used dynamite or a romp of otters (should be an outfit of otters to alliterate, but like a waddle of penguins it just seems right) to clean off barnacles. Expect to reinstall for use on passage if another pin can be rounded up. A few days on anchor is anticipated to check function of new batteries, clean hull/prop and change zinc anodes as necessary. One (particularly the individual who will do the work) hopes anti-fouling paint has protected the bottom if not the running gear.

- Later

Two coats of varnish applied. Sanding and one or two more to go and brightwork may remain bright for awhile longer. Spinnaker problem solved as shackle was jamming pulley at an oblique angle so snuffing line did not run fair. New relay and start capacitor has AC whispering cool air into saloon without recourse to pummeling compressor with rubber mallet. Whisker pole has been repaired although lack of longer inner tube prevents extension farther than it should probably go anyway. Lazarette drains removed and cleaned. Any subsequent, potential deck scrubbing/cleaning and stainless polishing will be as good as anything gets for the foreseeable future. The last four weeks has gone quickly, what with crew staying too busy on boat work (OK sure, and partying) to contemplate how much they enjoy a particular deadly sin. Work may be character building, but as an attribute it's substantially over-rated. Sloth is healthier and significantly more enjoyable. Let the fun begin.


Bugger! This is turning into another marathon entry that seems never to end. Sun is shining and it's raining, as happens often, so may or may not sand and paint today. Met Jan for breakfast after her weekly yoga session at Prickly Bay Marina where, except for the occasional passing shower, no breath of wind interrupts progress of sweat working its way into eyes and soaking T-shirts. No worries. Bike ride back to Secret Harbour will terminate with glorious, refreshing conditioned air. Let the sloth begin.

Jack & Jan

Wicked Works

19 October 2019 | Grenada, W.I.
Friday 18 October 2019

Vegged in last evening after friends came over early for a wee tipple. Had short dinner with moderate wineage while watching penultimate (that's for you Geoff) episode of Game of Thrones. This reiterated a universal truth that, no matter how cute, people with fire-breathing dragons should be avoided - power corrupts.

Last major operation on boat before sailing north is varnishing brightwork - contrary to implication it's wood. This will require an extended rain stoppage, which at this moment seems iffy.

Missed them at Nimrod's, but expect to catch-up tonight at Benji Bay. Contrary to what is likely a first impression, The Leaky Seacocks are not an embarrassing medical affliction nor even a nautical catastrophe, but rather a new band. And not for example a rubber band used perhaps to ease those ailments; they play musical instruments. No flutes of any kind, perverts. Understand the members actually voted on the name. Review to follow.

- Later

Dry spell this afternoon allowed a good wash and sanding of all exterior wood. Two more clearish days, which currently appear doubtful (due dubious forecasting, that's probably, hopefully wrong), should allow three or four refresher coats of Awlwood MA to put us good for another year or two. Awlwood is an "exterior wood system" that will hereafter be inaccurately referred to as varnish. It was developed in New Zealand, looks beautiful like resin, adheres better than polyurethane, lasts longer than either and is, all things considered, the dog's bollocks. If not for washing, sanding, taping and cleanup it could almost be fun.


Two guitar-playing singers, a tenor sax player and a one drum drummer produced excellent music at Benji Bay last night. Lots of great amateur talent in the cruising and local populations in Grenada. It would inspire practice on a very fine Yamaha guitar if I had the slightest talent. After spending actual money for lessons in Darwin, discovered that a singing voice is not my only serious musical deficiency. Of course, by themselves these would not be a deterrent to pissing away valuable hours of life practicing, but since Jan, although wonderfully forebearing, is nearly always aboard and since I'm not into schadenfreude...

For all Americans and Canadians who are lusting after news of the quadrennial Rugby World Cup being played this time in Japan, all thirteen of you, our national teams failed to win a single game and are eliminated, England crushed Australia to make the semis and our awe inspiring, adopted All Blacks pulverized Ireland to advance as well. Last two spots will be decided tomorrow between S. Africa & Japan and Wales & France. We'll be up at 0400 local (AST/EDT) next Saturday to watch the Kiwis walk over England and into the finals on 2 November. Be there or be two sides short of a regular hexagon - Mrs. Raburn, my eleventh grade geometry teacher, would be so proud.

Tonight, we watch the consummation (no Cal it's not naughty) of the eight season epic, Game of Thrones. Assuming a continued winnowing of players from the penultimate (sorry Geoff, couldn't resist) episode, who will live long enough in this episode to sit on the Iron Throne? Since it's actually iron, perhaps someone with a bit of padding on his or her butt. Will Daenerys recover from becoming a psycho, genocidal tyrant? Will John acquire ambition and claim his birthright? Will Tyrion grow a couple of meters and kick butt? Will HBO discover that the most lucrative program in its entire history needs another season? To be revealed in the fullness of time.

Jack & Jan
Vessel Name: Anthem
Vessel Make/Model: 1997 Hylas 46
Hailing Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
Crew: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes
Jack: Formerly productive member of the community as a Northwest Airlines Captain who retired to become a drain on, and embarrassment to, polite society. [...]
While I will be delighted if anyone else enjoys these excursions into semi-intelligible foolishness, the primary purpose is personal amusement. This is not travelogue, cruising guide or philosophical exploration of anything in particular, merely random musing of a slightly twisted mind. Despite [...]
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S/V Anthem

Who: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes
Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
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