Anthem Adrift

02 December 2021 | Didim, Turkey
30 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
29 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
26 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
24 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
24 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
24 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
17 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
17 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
17 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
17 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
06 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
05 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
02 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
25 October 2021 | En Route Didim
24 October 2021 | En Route Leros
23 October 2021 | En Route Donousa
21 October 2021 | En Route Milos
20 October 2021 | Elafonisos, Peleponnese
18 October 2021 | Elafonisos, Peleponnese

Trigger Warning

02 December 2021 | Didim, Turkey
Thursday 2 December 2021

Crikey, what happened to Wednesday? Oh right, spent cold, windy afternoon culling clothes not worn in years to help supply secondhand store. Now have capacity in drawers for what's left... almost. At least the space doesn't look like a teenagers bedroom. My side has become neater than the OCD Canadian's. Pfffthththt!

Every day has been predicted rainy, but hasn't turned out that way. Yet. Some rain, but mostly at night. Tomorrow and Saturday show twenty five and thirty five millimeters (for Americans that's just short of cats and dogs) so perhaps we'll get a bead on forecast accuracy. For esoterica lovers (you know you want it) pet fauna falling from the sky might be traced to the Greek "cata doxa" which means �"contrary to experience or belief�", i.e. a pant-load of rain. Expression should be "raining fish and frogs" as that can actually happen in severe storms.

Finally made it to Jack Valentine's restaurant when Jan went to get "waxed". They have an excellent full English breakfast, as is common everywhere here, for only three dollars fifty and Jack himself is an open, personable guy, but the fellow who initially greeted me and took the order had a dour expression and never returned a smile. When Jan came in, began reciting an email sent to buddy in South Carolina. Referencing Christmas dinner special at the Yacht Club wrote, "The Christmas thing is probably so they can get all the infidels in one spot for jihad. Perhaps we should convert". Decided to defer reading that part until arriving back at boat as Mr. Chuckles may understand English, but not warped American humor.

Jack & Jan

All For One And One For All

30 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
Union Jack

Tuesday 30 November 2021

Jan, who likes to torture innocent hairs by ripping them out by their roots and listen to them scream in agony during a barbaric ritual euphemistically called "waxing", decided to give the little guys a reprieve until Thursday as weather was forecast to be crap (highly technical meteorological term). Wind is indeed puffing up above thirty knots, but sky is clear and temperature warmish. Suspect she just felt a transitory guilt for this inhumane act, then quickly reverted to her typical Schadenfreudic compulsion. And you thought Canadians were nice!

Today is St. Andrews Day in Scotland. He's their patron saint and his cross eventually became the Scottish national flag due a promise by King Angus when long dead Andy supposedly gave the Scots a shorthanded victory in 632 over an English army (more precisely Angles and Saxons) during a punitive Scottish/Pict raid into Northumbria. English are less keen, but nevertheless put the cross on their flag. Although this was probably an esthetic decision as the Union Jack would be pretty boring without blue, James I, who incorporated it with the cross of St. George, was actually Scottish. He mostly ignored Scotland thereafter and no Scot was ever again allowed on the thrown. If, as they threaten, Scotland leaves the UK and people glom onto the realization that Ireland is no longer in the family either, the flag might lose the crosses of both St. Andrew and St. Patrick (added later) and revert back to just St. George's. Nice and all, in its unpretentious way, but just doesn't have the same baroque appeal.

While on this subject, Barbados just gave the boot to Auntie Liz and became an independent republic. The Prince of Wales was there to bestow the Queen's blessing and gleefully bash England for its ancient sins. We're happy for them and wish the citizens continued success and prosperity. This would have been even better if they had been consulted by the Barbados government, but just as well. Who knows what mischief might occur if people are allowed to decide their own fate; they might not come to the correct decision.

Jack & Jan

Hinnies

29 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
Sunday 28 November 2021

Mediterranean monk seals are critically endangered, only about six hundred still in existence, three quarters in the Aegean. We have our very own individual here in the marina who has a plethora (there's that word again!) of mullet although they normally eat octopus, squid, and eels. Don't know whether she's a he or he's a she, but hope there's an appealing companion around to produce a few more little monks.

It's indian summer in the Turkish Aegean. Midday pot luck with the usual rabble had clear sky, light wind and twenty three degrees. May not see such again until March. Forecast for Monday is forty knots and rain. That's OK as a miserable day matches well with scheduled dentist visit. Area has a plethora (on a roll) of dentists, but only one dermatologist. Waiting on Turkish IDs before calling for that appointment because medical goes through some central health thingy and residency is required. Maybe non-residents only get emergency care? Didn't query too deeply.

Speaking of "too", when used as a modifier it means "more than necessary". For example, "You're too persnickety" (no I'm not). "To" is a separate word so strap on that second "o". And while we're on spellings please do not use "your" when you mean "you're" (major pet peeve). The first is a possessive pronoun, something that belongs to you, and the other is "you are". They sound similar, but they're completely different. So there! (not "their" or "they're"). Don't be an esegin oglu.

Jack & Jan

Fowl Wind

26 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
Turkey

Thursday 25 November 2021

Crew observed American Thanksgiving today by officially moving to Turkey. We contemplated celebratory meal at Jack's Restaurant (must be good), which advertises a special on chicken - no turkey, but opted instead for lamb shank and steak at New Moon. By the way turkeys, common here though not indigenous, are not the fat, stupid, domesticated, white ones that are whacked to provide the traditional US T-Day meal (or pardoned by the President), but rather the good looking, wild ones Ben Franklin wanted to make our national bird. Bald eagles are majestic and all, but turkeys are way cool. Pelicans, my personal favorite, are even better. Canada's national bird is an unpretentious, gray jay. Should have been the more attractive and impressive loon (casting no loony aspersions) or the snowy owl. At least it's not the obstreperous and messy Canada goose. What were they thinking?

Since we now have Turkish residency, which supplies identification, Jan couriered, with massive trepidation, her passport to the embassy in Ankara. Canada expressly accepts no responsibility to not lose it or to issue the new one in a reasonable amount of time. They don't answer calls and won't reply to queries for at least ten days after receipt. Taxes to pay for reduced service have probably gone down too. Right?

Friday

With two friends distaff crew, who hates shopping, is currently in Izmir, a two hour drive, to shop. She's on a mission to find ticking (Lyme disease-free covering) for forward bunk mattress. This leaves rest of crew home alone contemplating risky business. This primarily comprises eating everything in the boat with fat and sugar, not exercising, becoming obese and having a heart attack. There will likely be insufficient time to accomplish last two details before Jan's return or massive indigestion intercedes.

Strong wind in the Aegean often comes from the north as a Meltemi. Today we're experiencing over twenty from the southeast. Southwest wind is called a Lodos, but apparently may back a bit then continue through the Dardanelles and Bosporus Strait. Siroccos also blow up southeast from North Africa. Mediterraneans have almost as many labels for wind (over thirty) as Inuit have for snow (forty or more). If it has a name, you probably don't want to sail in it.

Jack & Jan

Wet Work

24 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
New Passerelle

Wednesday 24 November 2021

Among a plethora ("I don't think that word means what you think it means") of productive activities a temporary, but more proper dinghy harness was rigged until cable and swaging material can be located. Received new passerelle, which was installed Saturday and which, to the bafflement of all involved, works well and stores efficiently. Contract was signed to transfer the kid's inheritance to Yacht Works for a massive amount of work next year, delayed for two years after almost nine of cruising, which will return our home to its former pristine loveliness. That's pretty much everything accomplished except for working diligently to avoid writing this blog for a week. Feel the love.

Tomorrow we visit immigration, give them money and become Turkish residents. No requirement to learn the language with the exception of "Thanks" and "We love Ataturk". An official ID card is included. Among other advantages, this allows staying in country for a year, discounts on museums and use of non-Turkish phones for more than ninety days. There's still a question about that last one - may have to buy a Turkish phone.

We have officially passed into wet season. Rain is forecast for most days until middle of March. Fortunately it will be cold so we won't sweat so much in our rain gear and sunrise is delayed to vindicate staying in bed until noon. My glass is, as usual, half full - usually red wine after 1700, which helps with the morning thing.

Jack & Jan

Half Fast

24 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
Dink

Wednesday 17 November 2021

New passerelle due delivery Friday. Will probably require design and
fabrication of mount for clearance to allow flush storage against pushpit (this
is a word for aft rail made up in 1960s, humorous(ish)ly suggested by pulpit
that is forward rail.. there is insignificant pushing or pulling involved).
Regrettably work by ship's engineering staff, i.e. getting off his creaky butt,
will be required. He was once prone to the impression that retiring would end
that sort of nonsense.

Thursday

For purpose of exploring often commended "work ethic", above referenced
personnel relocated dinghy from deck to water for cleaning topsides. Such
grooming activity has not been attempted for a number of months because - lazy.
Although twenty-five-year old, crazed, chalky gelcoat has caused boat to be
irredeemably grubby observed up close (within 50 meters), which has reduced
incentive to expend much effort, black, furry waterline has extended that
distance to half a kilometer. In order to mitigate resultant embarrassment crew
have studiously avoided looking and, as able, disavowed ownership.

To make shipping and unshipping easier, harness was rigged with old rope to
maintain dink's flat orientation as raised. Cursory job ultimately created
twice as much work as if it had been done properly. Some people are
incorrigibly... is quarter-assed a word?

Jack & Jan

Unstrung

24 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
Marina Mullet

Monday 15 November 2021

Returned to boat yesterday afternoon just in time to avoid jumping in frigid water to find new eight hundred dollar glasses (yowzer!) that jumped off dock neighbor's face. Jan gave my dive kit to Aussie friend who spent an hour freezing his nibblets off while dodging swarms of marina fish before finding them. Was initially upset to have left phone at boat before bike ride. Sometimes absentmindedness pays off.

Tuesday

Successful day as we peddled to bicycle shop for crankset shield to protect pants cuffs, pharmacy to see if prescription drugs are available over-the-counter in Turkey, chandlery to check inventory and prices and "Gourmet Pork" for pig products. Single failure was pants guard, but was balanced by finding new passerelle for a third the cost of used one at marina store - on order.

Previous four entries, initially strung together due procrastination in sending, were delayed until this afternoon to separate because droning on for that long was tedious and to add photos/video.

Jack & Jan

Peddle On, Garth

17 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
Waxing Crescent And Venus

Wednesday 10 November 2021

Chilly meltemi roared last night and this morning with whitecaps on the yacht
club pool. These are suppose to be dry, summer winds. Well, the dry part is
right. Although enjoyed breakfast there several times, which is good and
inexpensive, have yet to try dinner, also reported excellent. Nice view of
marina, which has sailboats. We like sailboats.

Sunday

Not quite sure what's happened since arrival from trip Tuesday. Amnesia may be
result of comradery with cruising mates during potluck on Friday night that
included readily available, drinkable yet inexpensive, Turkish wine.

Nevertheless performed some work on boat: replaced deceased start battery that
had caused shore power system to go berserk, bought heater to take chill off
evening showers and morning tea (somewhat hindered by schizo electric system)
and fixed secondary bilge pump that had probably been fried for several months.
Scheme to mount unobtrusive passerelle on transom is being formulated as well as
other stuff that should also be considered (note to self, write it down when it
comes to you).

Got bikes out this morning and peddled to Gloria Jeans for coffee. Currently
procrastinating return to boat as work awaits, but cafe staff has begun giving
me the evil eye for excessive loitering so now leaving.

Monday

Returned to boat yesterday afternoon just in time to avoid jumping in frigid
water to find new eight hundred dollar glasses that jumped off dock neighbor's
face. Jan gave my dive kit to Aussie friend who spent an hour freezing his
nibblets off before finding them. Was initially upset to have left phone at
boat before bike ride. Sometimes incompetence pays off.

Tuesday

Successful day as we peddled to bicycle shop for crankset shield to protect
pants cuffs, pharmacy to see if prescription drugs are available over-the-
counter in Turkey, chandlery to check inventory and prices and "Gourmet Pork"
for pig products. Single failure was pants guard, but was balanced by finding
new passerelle for a third the cost of used one at marina store - on order.

Previous three entries, initially strung together due procrastination in
sending, were delayed until this afternoon to separate because droning on for
that long was tedious and to add photos/video.

Jack & Jan

Pilgrimage Passing

17 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey


Monday 8 November 2021

Last day of a trip that went darn quickly. Late start to rest up for 2235 flight to Izmir then two hour drive back to Didim. Drove past Iskederun (Alexander's name before it was westernized), which is a major port for all of Middle East, en route to Adana.

Central Mosque in Adana (Sabanci Merkez Camii, built in 1998 thanks to a bazzilionaire who chipped in half of cost because they couldn't get nearly enough other donations) is the second largest in Turkey, with six minarets, capacity for twenty eight thousand worshipers and more outside. It was empty during call to prayer when we were there. Blue Mosque (1617) in Istanbul, also with six minarets, is bigger, but only holds ten thousand. By comparison, the Great Mosque of Mecca (Masjid al-Haram) can accommodate two and a half million in air conditioned comfort, four million total, and has eleven minarets. Originally had six, but when the Blue Mosque was built with same number the Saudis got all jealous and sulky so built a seventh then four more. The Kaaba, a central building in the mosque was supposedly built by Adam or made even before he was created, then rebuilt by Abraham, the guy who was willing to murder his son for God. The Mosque has been expanded numerous times as late as a few years ago. Although over three million attended Hajj in 2012, average numbers are a mere two million three so there's usually plenty of elbow room and seldom are more than two thousand people trampled to death each year, at least officially.

Tuesday

Back on boat around 0230. Slept in and didn't do much thereafter.

Jack & Jan

Rocks Rock

17 November 2021 | Didim, Turkey
Museum Hotel

Sunday 7 November 2021

Hatay province is where Christianity, in the first century CE, became a word. St. Peter's church was built in a cave near Antakya (previously Antioch named after another of Alexander's generals) in fourth or fifth century following Constantine making it the official religion (for political reasons of course.) This ended most persecution. Nevertheless they dug a tunnel through the mountain to escape sudden raids and attacks. Being a Christian back then required one be a bit more spunky than today.

Visited the very large Hatay Archeology Museum, which was nice and had some unique exhibits, but after awhile, for most of us, all the pottery, statues, amphorae and rocks were beginning to look like so much rubble.

Having said that, however, the Museum Hotel in Antakya was built over a section of the ancient city that was discovered after construction had already begun. The redesigned very modern and very beautiful hotel is perched on pillars above the uncovered Necmi Asfuroglu Archeology Museum, which includes a large, multi-room Roman bath, largest single-piece ground mosaic in the world (from a public forum area) and a banquet hall. It was fascinating. Hotel ultimately took eleven years at four times original estimate with half the planned rooms and opened just as it was shuttered for covid. Surprisingly, except for the Presidential suite (over $1300/night), a room can be had for as little as 100. Fortunately for them and archeology lovers everywhere the owners were already rich and could afford the extended payback.

Finally went to Titus Tunnel dug by Romans to divert a river that was silting the harbor at Samandag. No big deal for them as work was actually done by Jewish slaves. All the above reminds us as we marvel at the ancient ruins and imagine their magnificence at the time and the effort and ingenuity that went into them that really, today, we build much better stuff with better materials, at a fragment of the cost, in a fraction of the time with far fewer slaves.

Jack & Jan
Vessel Name: Anthem
Vessel Make/Model: 1997 Hylas 46
Hailing Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
Crew: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes disgraceful.twaddle@gmail.com
About:
Jack: Formerly productive member of the community as a Northwest Airlines Captain who retired to become a drain on, and embarrassment to, polite society. [...]
Extra:
While I will be delighted if anyone else enjoys these excursions into semi-intelligible foolishness, the primary purpose is personal amusement. This is not travelogue, cruising guide or philosophical exploration of anything in particular, merely random musing of a slightly twisted mind. Despite [...]
Home Page: http://www.sailblogs.com/member/anthem
Anthem's Photos - Main
5 Photos
Created 2 January 2017
Waterfall, etc.
5 Photos
Created 19 May 2009

S/V Anthem

Who: Jack Warren, Janice Holmes disgraceful.twaddle@gmail.com
Port: Weeki Wachee, FL
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