Wednesday 8 January 2025

Want to express gratitude to Zuma's Restaurant and Bar on Highborne Cay for saving us a whopping amount of money. Sent an email earlier to reserve, but due an unforeseen closure today any inheritance our progeny might have received had we produced any was not squandered on what was reviewed as superb, but extravagantly expensive cuisine. Could be accommodated tomorrow, but thoughts of destituting our lazy, unappreciative, non-existent spawn plus desire to keep moving south extinguished that possibility. Besides being frugal we also have rather plebeian requirements. Jan likes a beautiful presentation as well as the next fine chef, but but good taste at sufficient volume with cheap alcohol takes precedence. Two episodes of Jack Ryan on Prime Video was a bonus.

Thursday

With predicted energetic north wind beginning this afternoon decided prudently to spend the evening at protected Warderick Wells, headquarters of Exuma Cays Land & Seas Park. Only mooring open was far side of J-shaped channel when we arrived at low tide. Chart indicates depth less than our draft at south end, but with assurances from park ranger and compulsive willingness to do stupid (that would be me), got around with plenty of water. Having no visual over bow as we approach moorings Jan always locates us perfectly for pickup with guidance through headsets. Easy peasy.

Listening to good music (defined as almost anything but hip hop and Stravinski) has been somewhat absent from the homestead since voltage spike took out numerous electronic devices. Finally wired new stereo then dedicated ancient iPhone 5s to use Spotify on bluetooth with Starlink to get down and get funky... OK, we never get down and seldom get funky - prefer up and mellow. Whatever, we again have technology to enjoy the dulcet tones of Buffett, Knopfler, Stone, Quinn, Dashew, etc. By the way, if you can find it, Music For Cruising by Sarah Dashew is excellent.

Jack & Jan

Sunday 5 January 2025

A lovely, slow sail had us arrive north of Devil's Cay in the Berry Islands after a short overnight to spend a few hours extracting ourselves from the bottom. Having misjudged (that would be me) a huge inbound current and subversive wind we were pinned sideways onto a ridge. Tide was still rising, but no help as flow just moved us farther up the mound. Held fast as starboard side of boat was in three meters with port side depth at a meter (draft two point one) we used dinghy to deployed anchors upstream and eventually requested help from nearby cruiser with twenty horsed dinghy to help push bow off so Jan could power forward into deeper water.

Therefore no nap to recover, but nevertheless friends, Mark, Kathy and her son Derek, sailed in midday so we proceeded to blue hole on Hoffman's Cay. As water is still in low twenties C Kathy was only soul crazy... I mean brave enough to swim. Although water extremely clear, the hole has vertical sides and is very deep with no fish, so little to see snorkeling. Kathy soon discovered the joy of wrapping a warm, dry towel around her very trim, goose-pimpled torso.

Monday

Invited the gang over for drinks and munchies Sunday night during which we functioned with admirable acuity until cruiser midnight (about nine thirty) when they kindly went home and we crashed.

After a sleep-in followed by an extended rest-in further followed by re-anchoring off of shallow area where current and wind had carried us we sailed north several miles to a bay better protected from forecasted west wind veering north. In afternoon unsuccessfully searched for a bar ashore. Nothing open. This probably due combination of covid lockdowns and recent hurricanes. Retreated to SV Sea Stray, Mark's Lagoon 40 catamaran, for minimal alcohol abuse, which ended early due long day-sail today to West Bay, New Providence. This keeps us far away from Nassau, a generally good thing except to see a truly wonderful aquarium on Paradise Island across from the only real city in Bahamas. Really always enjoyed it, but there are mo' bettah places that are less crowded if you don't need parts and such.

Tuesday

Now underway in fine downwind conditions, wing and wing with poled-out genoa. Depending on wind tomorrow may or may not sail across Yellow Bank to Highborne Cay in Exumas where on Thursday we may or may not continue to Norman's Cay from which on Friday we may or may not... you get the idea. Besides a tolerance for spending heaps of money, motorboaters (stinkpotters) are mostly governed by sea conditions. Sailboaters, by contrast, are less limited by the sea, but more reliant on a useable wind speed & direction and patience. That last thing sometimes escapes me.

Jack & Jan

Saturday 28 December 2024

We're in the 'tween times, the limbo period between indulging in abject gluttony with turkey, ham, desserts & fruit cake (do you actually eat them?) and getting rip roaring, knee walking pasted on spiked eggnog while saying a bleary goodbye, and good riddance for some, to another year. We have had a darned fine one all things considered and looking forward to a very interesting 2025, possibly with some major changes or maybe not.

After a minor debacle with getting rental car yesterday morning (saved by good service from Raymond at Bullseye) we retrieved Lesley from airport (three flights overnight through Phoenix and Miami), got her settled into a nap and arranged for light debauchery in Lucaya last evening. Deo Jumantes, to prepare for flight today, had left before our arrival, so we enjoyed excellent dinners at Zorba's (did you guess Greek?) on our own - moussaka and gyro, no retsina, no ouzo.

While girls ran off to get breakfast and see swimming pigs, boys (rabbit and me) stayed home to install Roku 4K stick that Lesley brought and new Pioneer stereo that replaced fried unit. Although rabbit was, as usual, of scant help, boys had a more productive day as no restaurants were open and pig beach closed. Their day saved by stopping at Solomon's supermarket for eggnog. They apparently bought some grocery type things as well.

Tonight we enjoy dinner at home and a movie using Roku on our giant screen (22") TV. Spoilsport Jan won't let us buy the ninety eight inch Samsung even though it could be invaluable as a backup downwind sail.

Sunday

Pancakes and rain.

Monday

Girls went to Garden of the Groves botanical garden and engaged in secret women's business. If known that a waterfall was reward for plodding around through shrubbery, maintenance crew might have gone as well, but instead again remained aboard pretending to work while rabbit, as is his wont, pretended to supervised.

Tuesday - New Year's Eve

Pretty sure almost nothing happened today until three of us trooped to Sobor Restaurant for celebratory dinner and music. "Escape to Midnight" buffet was possibly the best in the entire history of buffets: coconut curry seafood soup, half shell oysters, shrimp deviled eggs, lobster, rabbit and much more. Yum!

Wednesday 2025

Another island exploration by distaff persuasion while poor (but adorable) maintenance crew spent first day of year rejuvenating lower end of outboard motor that had become seized. Second time to happen due corrosion where power shaft travels through narrow tube to gearbox. A grand time was had by all... probably.

Thursday

Last day of visit by Jan's longtime BFF. Will take her to airport this afternoon, return car tomorrow morning and depart Freeport Saturday for points south.

Saturday

This entry is going on way too long so will stop. Marina has been paid and will allow us to stay until until afternoon. Berry Islands are too far for day sail and too close for an overnight, so will leave late, go slow and enjoy what weather wizards claim will be beautiful conditions. We'll just see about that. Anchorage near Devil's Cay has not the best holding and with forecast wind may be rolly, so morning arrival gives time to find a better place farther on and possibly to locate friends who are in the area.

As everyone is aware this is the fourth day of the last year of the first quarter of the first century of the third millennium. It will never happen again, so enjoy.

Happy New Year!

Jack & Jan

Monday 23 December 2024

Christmas is a couple days off, but prospects are unfavorable for a visit from Santa; we have no chimney. His charitable corpulence could come in via cowl vent and dorade box, but unlikely he's that supple. Anyway, much of crew is on his naughty list and could only expect a switch or a lump of coal. No matter her exemplary essence, Jan is guilty by association, so will also get bugger all.

Most people have heard of Freeport, Bahamas, but we are nearby in Lucaya. It's the actual port and also more touristy. Except for a small cafe in marina, not much where we are, but a free ferry will take us across harbour to numerous restaurants and bars. That transport ends at 1800, but taxis are available for ten Bahamian bucks, same as USD, to get back home.

Not wanting to cook last night we ferried over to Rum Runners Bar & Grill and bumped into crew from Deo Juvante, who kept us out latish (we seldom do actual late) and forced us, forced I say, to over-indulge in adult beverages. They are here to lay up their catamaran in commercial yard, rent an apartment for a few days then fly to UK where Paul will attempt to have surgery on his back (NHS.. good luck). Their plan is to peddle their cat here and buy a real sailboat (monohull), but if unable will sail to Europe and sell there. Wonder if Ft. Lauderdale might be better. Paul is from UK and Eugenie is French, but now citizens of Australia. We know a lot of expat nomads who don't live in even their adopted countries.

Friday

On Christmas day Jan returned car borrowed previous night after dinner including a sufficiency of potation to Paul & Eugenie's temporary abode and rode her folding bike back to boat while maintenance crew listened to and watched NFL (American football for the non-cognoscenti) on Netflix in minimum gaps between rebuilding aft marine head that was clogged in worst possible fashion. Another beautiful Christmas in paradise.

This morning we collect our own rental car to pick up Jan's BFF, Lesley (she's a Canadian expat from San Francisco and certifiable, but we love her), from Grand Bahama Freeport Airport. She'll be with us for a week after which we continue south. Plan Panama sometime in February to meet a mob of mates before they transit the Canal in March or April, cross the Pacific and return home to Australia, New Zealand and Singapore. We have few clues as to our doings thenceforth.

Happy Holidays to everyone. May you have universally good surprises in 2025.

Jack & Jan

Saturday 21 December 2024

Winter solstice occurred at 0421 EST and couldn't happen too soon. Normally we'd be nearer the equator thus avoiding worst aspects of this time of year, including frigid temperatures and appallingly attenuated daylight, but for some lamentable and abstruse reason this year we found ourselves at dreadfully high latitudes. We are, however, rapidly correcting the situation. Halifax is latitude forty four, Portsmouth thirty six, Murrell's Inlet thirty three and beautiful downtown Freeport basks at twenty six. Although days remain short, warmth returned almost immediately once offshore South Carolina. Even Grand Bahama will get chilly in January, so plan to keep going south in a couple of weeks. Colon, Panama, by the by is at a very sultry and daylighted nine.

Ran into a wee kerfuffle when starting engine after wind temporarily died. Experienced banging and vibration on a port roll with mainsail out to that side. Dripless packing was spraying inside of engine room as shaft jumped about. Furling main helped slightly by decreasing roll. Lowering RPM had stopped the worst of it, but something was badly out of balance. Remembering that prop had not feathered properly when previously shut down, reversed to perhaps shake loose anything jammed in blades and due some quirk of physics and counter normal expectation it did. By the time engine was again running smoothly wind had returned, so sails carried us at a nice clip into Freeport free from growling diesel, juddering shaft or salt corroding all things metal in engine room.

Sunday

As is customary, today is a day of shiftlessness, indolence and malingering... something like that. Not wanting to buck the societal tide, one of crew is adhering to this excellent notion while others are washing accumulated salt off deck, cleaning windows and filling water tank. She's the Energizer Bunny. This is in counterpoint to her own rabbit who is relentlessly lazy, staying in bed for literally weeks at a time displaying a perpetually phlegmatic expression. Less conscientious crew at least rouses himself occasionally to perform work once that becomes impossible to ignore. Fortunately for the less peppy individuals they are both irresistibly adorable.

Jack & Jan

Saturday 14 December 2024

Escaped Friday the thirteenth unscathed. Probably would have suffered misfortune if superstitious. Nocebo effect. We just say no.

Tuesday

Good visit with longtime mate, Rich. Met in Air Force fifty one years ago. Man, that guy must be really old. Drank and ate too much - all his fault, entirely. Murrell's Inlet OK place except local West Marine closed on Sunday and Monday. What up widdat? Had to scavenge around to find replacement secondary bilge pump. Had no problem, however, finding decent bar in which to drink and eat too much.

Last few weeks of very high seas have moderated. Too much wind has now become too little. Not wanting to delay further, have been motoring and motor-sailing since departure this morning. Someone should talk to Aeolus about this situation. We're quite annoyed with him. However, Neptune has made waves semi not awful and Thor has so far been quiescent so not completely cheesed with gods in general.

Thursday

North wind against north flowing current can pile up nasty seas, so given break in changing forecast shot across Gulf Stream overnight. Boat in two meter waves had Tourette's, making moving around a bit awkward, but no huge lunges. Now heading downwind, south toward Grand Bahamas. Still have over two meters with insufficient wind to stabilize motion. Perhaps tomorrow. Expect arrival Freeport/Lucaya Saturday. We have dockage for two weeks at the Grand Bahamas Yacht Club. Sounds impressive, but how good could it be if not expensive and they allow itinerant cruiser trash.

Friday

At 0400 began sailing and shut off diabolical, dastardly diesel. Generally don't insult it aloud as the thing has now over fifteen thousand hours, is sensitive and may sense a hostile environment in a toxic workplace. We don't want that! Fortunately it has no computer and doesn't read. Finally had good conditions and comfortable motion. Should continue thusly into Lucaya. Shortened sail to prevent arriving too early after averaging seven knots even against a variable, but mostly adverse current east of Stream. Friends left St Augustine yesterday, crossed over last night and were ten nm behind us. it's a big honkin' cat, so could catch us before tomorrow.

Jack & Jan

Thursday 5 December 2024

Wind veered enough by 1300 to head across Albermarle Sound on a reach. Still blowing a hoolie and chop in shallow bay made ride a smidge frisky, but should have protection in Little Alligator River for the night with wind to ease later. Looking ahead, forecast shows no good window to cross Gulf Stream then sail to Jamaica. Bugger! May continue suffering ICW further south for protection from ugly sea and adverse wind offshore. Plowing the ditch in a sailboat sucks.

Monday

Plugged on down ICW to Beaufort, NC, and Homer Smith Marina by Saturday afternoon to buy diesel, remove delaminating genoa and refill propane. Great operation and dockmaster Dan was friendly and helpful. Choked down painkillers and dinner at Rhum Bar where we met ten year heart transplant recipient - perfect health. Western medicine rocks.

Finished everything this morning including buying a 120 vac floor heater for use while running generator. Now we be hoofin' down the way and we be warmer. Sometimes.

Tuesday

Anchored last night in Cape Lejeune Marine Base featuring helicopters, jets and bomb blasts. Although Jan is a foreigner, she's a good one so assume they weren't aiming at us. Apparently the case as we left early without incident, until...

About two miles down the track and still on base hit a shoal that extended full width of channel. Kedged off and hunted and pecked to confirm. Waited three hours until tide changed and found a swash channel far off track. Hoped to make Carolina Beach, but now looking to limp into Wrightsville Beach well after dark.

Wednesday

Would have encountered bad shoal area before Wrightsville Beach Bridge in the dark to then wait forty five additional minutes for scheduled opening and another thirty to anchorage, so decided to stop just off ICW and stay all today as wind forecast for over forty knots. Would have been fine, but current and wind, which were both flowing along the channel, conspired to push us closer to shore where, as tide dropped, we again became acquainted with the stuff that defines shallow water. Stuck on outgoing tide, it was several hours at a rather impressive heel before we floated off. Could have moved in the wee hours to a better location with perhaps more swing room back up channel. Coulda, shoulda, didn't. So, here's the good part. Probably stay same location as anchor is well set and wind is now driving us away from shore. If we get stuck again expect to blame the rabbit... or Jan who is very protective of the little malingerer.

As Atlantic weather is crap (highly technical meteorological term) until at least Monday, may work our way down to Murrell's inlet to visit longtime mate for a few days.

Friday

Despite feeling more bottom than a fraternity pledge paddle, made good time to Shallotte Inlet, one of few places that allows anchoring depth off channel. Looks like we can make Wacca Wache Marina (real name) near Murrell's Inlet by 1600 today if we avoid ninety nine hazards listed on Navionics chart (really) betwixt (real word) here and there.

Meantime ICW is lousy with creature features: dolphins, cormorants, egrets, pelicans, great blue herons and even deer. Must not be hunting season - they know.

Although ICW sucks in a multiplicity of assorted ways it can be fairly interesting. Little River, SC, begins tourist destinations that extend past Myrtle Beach. This includes large houses along the water, huge marinas, casino boats and even a couple of lighthouses. No idea what they're for except to warn of a gambling hazard nearby.

Jack & Jan

Wednesday 20 November 2024

Malingering is great fun for awhile, but then makes one a bit weary. Day five after surgery, keeping leg elevated and still bleeding. Went to emergency room yesterday where doctor squeezed out a copiousness of blood, then super glued the incision and re-wrapped. Didn't help. Sloth is slipping from top spot in hierarchy of favored deadly sins as gluttony advances. Never thought to look appreciatively on the joys of boat work.

Sunday 24

Apologize for more medical crap. Returned to hospital Friday where we (mostly my personal nurse) badgered doctors into a couple of staples, a vacuum bandage, leg brace and appointment for review by orthopedist Monday, 2 December. After two days, even with limited exertion, progress is marginal.

Friday 29

Ever notice that the more time you have to do things the less gets done? Perhaps it's just me. This is, of course, by way of excusing a nearly complete lack of productive accomplishment including this blog, whether or not you consider it a constructive use of time.

Although brace and wee vacuum pump still on (expiring today), bleeding finally stopped around Wednesday even with straight-leg, slow toddle into town and back. Plan no more updates about this annoying episode.

Forecast for sailing around Cape Hatteras in near future is equally vexatious as wind is either too strong, from the wrong direction or both. Desire to escape low temperatures may induce using the ditch (ICW), although it's not much warmer until Florida, but winds further south may be more conducive to continuing south more furtherer - cannot happen soon enough.

Speaking of which, anybody remember the recreational whingeing attendant to temperatures below twenty Celsius? Do ya, well, do ya? One might have detected a tinge of flippant humor in those maunderings, but with the mercury plunging below zero, jocularity ain't in it no more. There aren't enough clothing layers on a tropically oriented yacht to brook humor.

Wednesday 4

Last of parts shipments came yesterday afternoon, so beat feet down ICW to Great Bridge Locks, stopping for the night just short of Great Bridge Bridge. Tied up at free Great Bridge Transient Landing and walked into Great Bridge for dinner and groceries. Locals seem particularly enamored of their name. It was great.

Motored into strong current and twenty knot wind today, expecting thirty tomorrow morning. Plan long, slow, three days to arrive near Beaufort for staging across Gulf Stream en route Port Antonio, Jamaica. Have date with several cruising mates for Christmas Eve with no intention to welcome Santa sober.

This entry took a fortnight to complete. That is not as long as one might assume because forts (bespeaking war, destruction, dismemberment and death) induce anxiety, making nights seem much longer.

Jack & Jan

Sunday 3 November 2024

Not to whinge too much about trudging through airports to fly on airplanes, but it still sucks. First flight yesterday showed available seats, but most standbys were left at gate. However, we got on next flight, that showed overbooked. Flight to Tampa where every flight is almost always jammed was half full so we got our own row. Anyway, made it, got the car and didn't have to fight traffic that has gotten much worse in fifteen years since it was home, to friend Angela's place where we'll camp.

Tuesday - no, not the next one, the one after

Two weeks of seeing doctors & dentist, buying out Costco and otherwise just laying about. A minor procedure on left knee Friday, then we return to boat Saturday. Great catching up with longtime friends around the old homestead, but look forward to seeing a few of the cruising mate mob who will likely be in Portsmouth upon our return.

Saturday

Surgery went fine, but incision began bleeding and won't stop. Thought it would be small, but cut is length of original installation. Blood's bright red. Hope it stops before total exsanguination. That would be pretty annoying for Jan as paperwork would delay her even further and she'd have to sail the boat by herself. She's well capable, but it would be a handful - the real reason she hasn't yet tossed me overboard tied to spare anchor. Early flights show full, so little harm in delaying until later in day when more open and after contacting physician.

My doctor was in surgery, so phone-in doc said OK to fly back to Norfolk. If we're out of town blame would be harder to place. Pretty sure he didn't give his name.

Now in Atlanta waiting for connecting flight that looks open. Removed soaked gauze and repacked wound in empty spot near gate. Hope no one gets all fussy about bleed through onto pants. Good thing panic over covid and AIDs has cooled a bit.

Home sweet home. In bed early with drugs, change of bandages and hot tea.

Jack & Jan
-

Friday 1 November 2024

'November' is taken from the Latin word for nine. But, you may query
in puzzlement, it's the eleventh month. What up? Glad you're so keen
to know. September (seven), October (eight) and December (ten) were
also named for their positions. Seems that Etruscan/Roman calendar
only had ten months. Julius Caesar, showing a bit of perspicacity,
added two months at beginning of year that then began on 1 January
instead of 1 March and added a leap day on 24 February (OK, he missed
that one slightly and also missed removing extra day every 400 years,
but still not bad). Could have added two months at end (undecim and
duodecim - eleven and twelve), but perhaps felt a little contrary that
day. Changing calendar may have been easier than messing with last
four names, but considering Romans spoke Latin for quite some time
thereafter, must have been a wee bit confusing. JC did this in 45 BCE.
Of course, he didn't know it was 45 BCE. Current numbering started in
525 and took centuries to catch on. He thought it was 709 starting at
the founding of Rome - Romans were very impressed with themselves.
Since calendar was by then way off he had also annoyed everyone by
sticking sixty seven days into previous year to get back in sync. No
wonder they stabbed him to death. All you people who want to gain or
lose an hour twice a year, take a lesson. Et tu?

We're motoring to Ocean Yacht Marina across from Norfolk with a nearly
thirty knot wind near the bow. Planned to be slightly early for 1300
check-in. Nuh guh hapn! No worries. Not much to do rest of day
except pack for early go tomorrow. Also, it's warm & sunny and we got
through open Hampton Roads before sea really picked up. Could be
worse.

- Later

Schweinshaxe was favorite meal an eon ago while stationed at Rhein
Main, Germany, flying for NATO. Bier Garden in Portsmouth presented an
opportunity to try it again. Was not disappointed. Irish Stout was
perfect match and day ended well.

Saturday

Another adventure in air travel today. Metal joints set off detector
in Global Entry pre-check security line (you know, the easy one) and
although TSA pedant was informed of cause and despite having nearby one
of those X-ray machines that can reveal the freckles on your butt, was
forced to remove belt & shoes and sustain a level of intimacy that
normally requires a fifth date. My comment, "you've got to be
(expletive deleted) kidding", possibly not helpful. We then missed
first standby flight, but got on next to Atlanta. Connection from
there to Tampa is wide open he insists confidently.

Jack & Jan