June 9

With great reluctance, shared by grabby coral, weighed chain and anchor for 30 mile hike up lagoon to Rotoava village at north Fakarava. Minimal wind required using iron yankee although port beam zephyr allowed sails to be a great help as boat heeled 3/4 of a degree in the 4 knot puffs. Careful observation of indicator detected speed increases as high as zero. Due forecast indicating more of same, fear two day sail to Tahiti may turn into two week paddle if fuel runs low.

Visited Gunter's (use an umlaut, he's German) place for a demonstration of black pearl production. Takes six years to culture the larger ones, around 18 mm. One oyster makes four pearls in year and a half increments as they need to work up from small to large. It's probably a confidence problem as they are really quite pusillanimous (is that a naughty word?). Maybe they're just shy. Natural pearls, about one in a thousand, are usually very small and, anyway, no one needs that much libido. Common business practice of free samples is unaccountably not implemented here. Expectations were cruelly shattered.

After buying bread tomorrow at 0600 (it's all scarfed up by 0700) will make the famous (hey, it's in the South Pacific Guide Book) Garuae Pass Drift Dive at 0800. Based on previous week's aquatic activities have developed inoperable pruning.

Dinner tonight is to be ashore, outside at the 'pink truck'. Prices are reported to be reasonable, i.e. merely outrageous. Methinks gourmet treats are in the offing.

Jack