Talava Arches

August 27

After various activities such as clearing out with customs and breakfast, finally got seven-man (def: a human being of either sex) self-guided tour on the road. Visited Togo Chasm, Talava Arches, Matapa Chasm, Palaha Cave and some other stuff - arches, caves, chasms and pools plus arches, caves and chasms with pools. All very cool, but one of the men (who could conceivably take umbrage at that designation) was over-caved and waited in van at last stop.

There are many helpful signs along roads exhorting population to save resources and not litter. This all seemed harmless enough until a sign was sighted enjoining the elimination of "persistent organic pollutants". Wonder if they realize that cruisers are seldom excessively persistent? Given large numbers of graves around the island and not wanting to test the limits, have resolved to remain pallidly diffident for remainder of stay. And they seemed so friendly.

If interest remains high, however, will tempt fate as described above by diving The Chimney and Bubble Cave tomorrow with new arrivals. Dive company reportedly gets a little peeved by divers using their buoys, but not them at $120 a shot, so we'll wait until they leave site around noon and use our own dinghy anchors. Departure toward Pago Pago the following day before sunup while wearing Richard Nixon Halloween mask will be entirely unrelated.

"On the whole human beings want to be good, but not too good, and not quite all the time." - George Orwell

Jack