Whale Sharks

Saturday 3 December 2016

Having been accustomed, once upon a time, to sailing a goodly amount (we spent a significant number of pesos in Mexico on accouter to do that very thing), it's disconcerting how fast diesel disappears when one doesn't. With top-up in Sorong, assumed enough to at least return there, but still 120 NM to Kwatisore and nearly at half supply. Attempt at sailing this morning was abandoned at 1.7 kts. not counting adverse current. Don't begrudge the 2500ish NM to Raja Ampat including Cenderawasih Bay and 2200 back, but will look forward to much less motoring between ports from Singapore to Phuket, not even to mention the odd marina, better boat part availability and Starbucks coffee. In fairness, right now we have a little breeze over deck (most of our own making), no rain with humidity of perhaps 95% instead of 99, so we're laughing.

Sunday

Having whinged about conditions Friday, we had a beautiful sail yesterday in light beam winds under cruising spinnaker. This was unfortunately obviated (huh?) by a somewhat less delightful night spent largely in a 25 knot squall and by negotiations after arrival this afternoon on costs for our stay.

Crew on a boat from the WWF (probably the animal activist branch of the World Wrestling Federation) helped us get permits for boats, bodies and cameras (separately) from officials who just happened to be in the area and then buy "protection" from the village chief in this part of the bay who wanted 300,000/person. Negotiations extended well into happy hour, but Isak, an officer on the WWF boat and a delightful fellow from Java, translated and argued our case. During the hour Shayne and I had to wait for the head guy to show (his daughter said he was having a nap) we sat with several villagers staring at each other and trying to make conversation. Everyone was very friendly except the chief, when he finally showed, who seemed a bit grumpy, but he settled for 100,000 and we took our leave nodding, smiling and repeating terima kasih like a mantra.

Monday

Today we take dinghies to bagans, platforms that whale sharks frequent, to bargain with resident fishermen who for a price will chum the big guys with anchovies to keep them around when they swim by. We were told the fishermen also must pay to come under the chief's protection while using his bay. His daughter said he didn't care about money. More to follow.

- Later

Major bucket list item. These guys are incredible. Although whale sharks are the largest fish in the ocean, they're remarkably gentle. Second thought, guess they can afford to be. After we arrived and snorkeled around a bit, fishermen said they had caught a big one in their net, which didn't seem at all like a good idea, but they apparently do this occasionally and she seemed very relaxed about it, just lying there letting some get in the net with her. She didn't, however, stay around to eat anchovies after release. The two we swam with seemed completely unperturbed by having several of us in the water nearby and swam right up to and around us. Of course they were getting a good feed so might better tolerate a little aggravation. After snorkeling for awhile I put on dive gear and got some pretty good video at 7 or 8 meters. This whole deal is so cool, may have to get a photo and some video on the blog. Fishermen didn't ask for anything, but for their good will and the anchovies the 3 couples gave them 300K, about 30AUD (with Aussie dollars the math is easier).

We've paid to park in the park for 2 more days and expect to search again, but if we don't see another shark, the 750 NM detour from Raja Ampat will have been worth the trouble.

Tuesday

In just one day we've become so blasé about whale sharks to bypass a bagan (sounds like wagon) with only one. Well hey, it was a smallish one. After a rather late night on Charlie, we took off at 0700 and eventually found a platform/boat with 6 or 7. These guys are all big, but a couple were bigger than that.. way big. One or two at a time were usually floating vertically and sucking on a net full of anchovies festooned into the water. This may have something to do with that "way big" thing. They would swim right by without taking much notice unless a tail got touched. That inspired a swat. Occasionally one would sneak up from behind, which is pretty hard to do for something that large, while you were watching the others and catch you unawares as he or she (females are bigger) glided past within a meter. We dived for most of an hour while they swam over, under and around their diminutive intruders. The water was full of impossibly huge, beautiful, graceful, creatures. This is one of those rare occasions when the word awesome can properly be used. Don't know whether we'll go out again tomorrow, but it won't be easy to top today.

Jack

PS Patience please. Perhaps one more day of gushing about whale sharks and then you will be returned to normal programming.