Bellow's Rock Awash at Cape of Good Hope

Wednesday 20 February 2019

After southernmost tip of Africa we began encountering the Benguela Current. While the Agulhas Current comes from the warmer north, this one flows out of the Southern Ocean. It's cold, way cold. Approaching the Cape of Good Hope (originally "Cape of Storms" also "Graveyard of Ships" (changed for PR purposes) it's the final destination for a sizable number of wrecks - around 3000), we've seen sea lions several miles from shore. Since the area is also noted for great whites whose diet consists mainly of them, their fishing this far out seems a rather risky endeavor. So how do the little guys avoid becoming lunch - can't hide, too far to jump onshore, slower than sharks? They are somewhat more nimble, but this only helps a bit. Guessing the plan is to be just slightly quicker than one's neighbor. The smart ones probably hang out with old guys, children and cripples. That's what I'd do.

Just ahead is Bellows Rock, historically a favorite way to make distressingly large holes in ship hulls (including passenger liner SS Lusitania in 1911 - Portuguese, not the more famous Cunnard RMS Lusitania that was sunk by a U-boat four years later) and a marvelous advertisement for life boats. As it's just past low tide and the rock uncovers, original idea was to go close and take a photo. As we get nearer, however, radar indicates chart is inaccurate in the wrong direction so perhaps, with a soupcon of circumspection, we'll squeeze outward a jot.

As wind, although light, remains tenaciously NW on the bow and engine revolutions are perforce low we will not arrive into Hout Bay Yacht Club Marina until just before dark and, as these things often transpire, just as breeze freshens from the south and east complicating mooring. Good thing we had such a fast passage up to Cape Agulhas. Ah well, we'll chock in with plenty of time for dinner and a wee dram to ward off the chill.

Jack & Jan