Dead Elephant Dinner Time

Tuesday 9 April 2019

Title word is hello in Zulu, the most common language in South Africa. There are thirty five indigenous and eleven official languages. English is the fourth most common first language, but nearly everyone speaks it fortunately for us. Except for French, which Jan has far more of than me and a wee bit of Spanish, our knowledge of languages other than English is, as is said of the Platte River, a mile wide and an inch deep, but almost always includes the critical words for hello, eat, drink, sleep, toilet and thank you. Hand gestures help. We get by and haven't yet accidentally told anyone his mother looks like a horned toad... probably.

Wednesday

Having spent most of the last 48 years tramping through airports and progressing beyond any delights incumbent thereby, nevertheless found that Cape Town International did not suck too badly. This partly due, no doubt, to minimal enthusiasm for air travel here this morning. First experience with metal knee at security. Modesty prevents me from expressing my pleasure from full fondle by S. African equivalent of TSA.

Air Namibia seems a nice run operation. Served large, excellent meal on an hour and a half flight to intermediate stop in Walvis Bay over a landscape even more desolate than the center of Australia.

Leaving marina this morning, gained a further appreciation for strength of east wind coming over the mountain into Hout Bay. Bronze bow chock on windward side of neighbor's boat had pulled completely out and was hanging on its dock line, which had ripped a half meter, jagged tear into fiberglassed, plywood bulwark. No structural damage so far to Anthem, just some missing paint, but yet another reason to part with serious wampum for redo in Caribbean.

Thursday

The capitol of Namibia, Windhoek, is a clean, modern city of 800,000 in the second least densely populated country on earth ahead of Mongolia. It's located on a central plateau savanna between the Namib desert along the coast and the Kalahari east. Airport was built 45 kilometers ENE because, we were told, the poobahs wanted to leave enough room for growth... right. Unlike most everywhere else they have few complaints about jet noise.

After a day of walking around town (according to Fitbit 13600 steps) went for dinner at Joe's Beerhouse, which is "Inspired by the fascinating character of Namibia and its people". Big place with many sections, very rustic, much of it under the stars. Very comfortable, we liked it a lot. They serve game, common fare in S Africa and Namibia, so gave zebra a try. Excellent. In previous experience springbok was pretty good, eland tender and delicious, oryx tasty, but chewy, pretty sure haartebeast skewers were made from hide. Understand kudu is the best.. maybe next time if we come back on last night in country.

Should have a couple hours to explore Swakopmund this afternoon, reportedly a touristy town, then short morning stop in Walvis Bay to see flamingos before return to Windhoek tomorrow afternoon.

Sunday

Dry weather is best for visiting game parks as animals concentrate around waterholes. Although days were beautiful, it had been and was raining at night so the critters were more dispersed. Nevertheless we saw lots and some types for the first time. One place had hyenas, jackals and dozens of huge vultures getting fat on a deceased elephant and elsewhere a pride of lions was resting beside a giraffe carcass it had been feeding on. Still no luck with leopards or cheetahs - they're particularly hard to find during daylight.

This must be birthing season as adolescents were everywhere. Many of the hoofed cat food and rhinos had little ones. Warthog babies are remarkably cute in an thoroughly ugly sort of way.

No internet around Etosha to allow polluting the ether, but your reprieve may be short-lived as this edition should get out tonight from Swakopmund. May have a couple hours this afternoon to explore what is apparently a touristy town, then a short morning stop in Walvis Bay to see flamingos before return to Windhoek tomorrow afternoon. Good trip and even better if S Africa lets us back in Tuesday. We've gotten quite fond of Anthem and really have no place else to live.

Jack & Jan