Fort Oscar Gendarmerie

Sunday 19 January 2020

Fort Oscar, the best preserved of three forts that no longer need to defend Port Gustavia, has been commandeered by the gendarmerie and restricted to police business only. Based on signage apparently nothing illegal is authorized to happen at night or between the hours of 1230 and 1400. A big fence with locked gate enforces this dictate and keeps out interlopers who can additionally only be dealt with using small arms as cannon remain pointed out to sea.

Fort Karl (or Carl depending on which sign one reads), of which there is little left, protected the overland south from dastardly English or whomever the Swedes were having contretemps at the time. As one might guess from place names, although France eventually bought it back in 1878, Sweden owned the island for awhile and built all its defenses. France had traded it to them in 1784 for free port rights in Gothenburg. Perhaps after French pirate habitue "Montbars the Exterminator" was lost at sea in the seventeenth century the place lost its magical allure in favor of honest trade. This preference reflects the advance of civilization and, despite a couple of deplorable episodes in the twentieth century and the odd skirmish since, continues to this day. Look it up and ignore social media and twenty-four hour news - an excellent idea in any case.

As promised rain has been torrenting and wind is yet wailing, so we enjoy a lazy morning on the boat. Even though sun is now peeking through hazy clouds, will probably remain aboard doing squat-all until tomorrow unless English mates sail over from Barbuda. Wind is predicted to ease nicely day after, but then turn extremely light or go against for the following several days, possibly until after we need to be in St. Maarten. Tuesday is the go. Clear out tomorrow afternoon then, since only sixteen nm to Simpson Bay, no rush for early departure - a fine opportunity to avoid sunrise and, after suitable advancement into daylight, awaken Princess with croissant and a spot of tea.

For you Gregorian calendar apostates Saturday is the first day of 4717, year of the rat. This seems particularly apropos in the US as we approach an election. If you were hoping for a year of fluffy bunnies or any hint of decorum or reason prepare to be dismayed.

Jack & Jan