Old Fortress

Friday 28 April 2023

Paxos is so nice that shuttles take visitors away from Corfu, which is
pretty darn high on the doesn't suck list itself. Well-protected
harbor on north end and pretty village. Great stop for staging.

In Corfu rented a Fiat Panda to get, among other things, transit log
stamped by Port Police then eventually returned to customs. Although
the island is a very popular tourist destination and expensive, two
days car rental was cheap, 35 euro - must still be off-season. Uber
from harbor to Port Police and Customs is 30 euro each way.

Driving on Corfu is an adventure in chaos. It is both tiring and
liberating in a way. Drivers pay scant attention to rules, but
everyone seems to maintain awareness, expecting that. This differs
from most places we've rented where laws and rules are widely adhered
to so drivers may be less alert to divergent behavior. Local system in
this turmoil must work as few cars are scratched or dented. Boldness
up to a point is rewarded.

On the promontory that contained the old Byzantine town of Corfu,
Venetians built a spectacular fortress that was sieged three times by
Ottomans and never taken. That sounds pretty good until you realize
the garrison didn't allow many residents inside. They were all killed
or carried off as slaves and the rest of the island was looted and
destroyed. Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent was probably OK with that.

Corfu is a labyrinth of alleys and narrow streets that contain a
multitude of shops, restaurants, cafes and bars. It's vibrant and
great fun. Dining and drinking is a bit expensive, compared to
elsewhere we've been in Greece, but excellent. Next time you're in the
area, stop by. You won't be sorry.

We anchored in a perfect bay with three dinghy docks, top, bottom and
middle, right by old town. There is, however, a big but involved as
the bottom is nearly all posidonia, a sea grass so thick that few
anchors can get purchase on the bottom. The few sandy spots are
quickly taken and during crowded summer season, Bora winds reportedly
make epidemic anchor dragging quite the sport.

Saturday

Could have stayed another day, but decided to make for Dubrovnik this
morning. Short two night sail past Albania and Montegegro is misnamed
as there's no wind and none expected. Good thing we topped fuel in
Lefkada. After burning the last of our ninety day Schengen visa in
Croatia by 28 May we'll come back to both for a month or so as they're
non-EU. Montenegro is highly reviewed. Albania not so much.

Not wanting another kerfuffle with authorities, hired an agent who will
handle all clearances in and out, save hours of extra boat movement and
deliver friend Lesley from airport. Worth every kuna (still used along
with euro).

Finally, as election silly season is beginning in the US, a little
reality from G.K. Chesterton:
"The whole modern world has divided itself into Conservatives and
Progressives. The business of Progressives is to go on making mistakes.
The business of Conservatives is to prevent mistakes from being
corrected."

Jack & Jan