Coasting the Costa Morte

Aqua Blue my Kelsall 39 cruising trimaran had spent the winter of 23/24 ashore at the excellent Xufre Varadoiro in Isla Arousa, Galicia. In April my wife and I drove to Arousa via the Portsmouth/Santander ferry. We spent two nights in a converted monastery in Santiago de Compostela, before taking an apartment in Arousa, not far from the boatyard. We combined local sightseeing with boat maintenance. Stella spent some time removing mould from the roof. It had been a very wet winter! And we enjoyed visiting Pontevedra and Cambados before Stella flew home. I stayed on for another week’s fitting out.

—————————————————————————————

In mid June I flew back to Arousa and fitted new 8mm cap shrouds with the help of the yard, esp Pablo, who lives on his boat during the week. He also fitted the new starter motor I’d bought at Ayamar, Ayamonte last year. The original’s Bendix had seized from rust, caused by drips from the cracked weld on the previous stainless exhaust elbow, which I’d already replaced.

By the 26th Aqua Blue was a sailing boat again rather than a building site. And she was lowered into the very tight 8mtr travel hoist dock by Alex, the son of owner Nito. I heartily recommend this Xufre yard to any owner who requires work in Galicia. They are friendly and affordable, and speak English for us monolingual Brits. Additionally there is a good restaurant Chabola on the beach outside the yard!

Elisa Coccorese joined me and together we fitted the Genoa and Mainsail while still on the yard pontoon, before motoring over to Pobra de Caraminal marina who’s outside pontoon is available for multis. A good spot in the Rias Baixas to refuel and re-stock. The marina bar/resto is convenient too.

On the morning of Mon 1st July we motored AB south inside Isla Salvora and out into the open Atlantic. Then north over a lumpy sea to anchor mid arvo off the west beach at Corrubedo. Elisa swam ashore and reported a very pleasant little town. M&S tinned curry onboard hit the spot. An early night with the northwest wind whistling in the rigging.

More motoring to windward on the 2nd to reach Ria Muros where we anchored off the town wall in murky water. The instrument panel failed to stop the Yanmar, necessitating manual override. And as I suspected the starter key was then inoperative as well. The Marina harbourmaster had no room for a multi and no electrician was available to visit AB at anchor. I rang Pablo back at Xufre who gave me useful advice.

The trusty Rocna held us close to the wall during a cool windy night. I then entered the engine cmptmnt and ran a new hot wire to the starter solenoid, and also replaced the HT lead end fitting (using copper grease too). Elisa held a mirror and torch to enable me to see what I was doing. The Yanmar now reliably started, so we left Muros imm and motored east to anchor off the small beach north of wonderfully named Portosin, in time for a lunch of tinned chilli mackerel fillets. Elisa headed off on the newly inflated SUP in search of a beach shower. In the arvo I removed the many bolts of the CB case cover to investigate why the board remained horizontal. The pin of the lower shackle on the new stainless chain had strangely corroded and opened up!

Thurs 4th July (Election Day in UK). Stella exercised my proxy vote in KempTown. Elisa (wearing an OCC cap) and I introduced ourselves to smart Portosin yacht club. We could then use the showers and balcony bar, where I celebrated Cavendish’s 35th sprint stage win at the TdF the day b4. Back on AB I strengthened the rear cabin hatch while Elisa returned to the beach via SUP.

I awoke to a Tory rout and Starmer now PM. Back to the smart yacht club to buy some petrol,. Then a good lunch at the beach bar with Elisa. Even found an ATM, not easy to use in the bright sun. Dinghied back to AB and raised the Rocna to motor round to more sheltered Portino/Creo. An Anglo/Austrian couple paddled over for a chat, and recommended the even shallower adjacent Bornalle beach.

But in the morning I gently ran AB aground at the river entrance to Creo. Within an hour I could walk round AB and hand drilled a new 8mm hole in the CB to fit a new larger stainless shackle. A couple of holidaying Brits walked out to observe and chat. As did a less complimentary Spanish lady, who multilingual Elisa managed to mollify. I walked out the lightweight Fortress anchor, and we were afloat again by 1.30pm. Returning to re-anchor off the swimming buoys, we observed the operation of the CB, b4 tightening down the case lid again. Then ashore for a Cana while listening to a band on the beach, followed by a Raxo Criollo. I slept for ten hours!!

Only 58F at 9am on Sun 7th July. A few jobs, then ashore to meet Demeter who’d crewed AB from Porto to the Rias the previous year. After a good Bocata de Calamares we rowed back to AB which had turned to face the fcst southerly. We upped anchor and returned to Muros, anchoring east of the harbour this time, in clearer water. Later exploring the old town behind and above the front, we enjoyed their Fiesta. Altho my return to AB was much earlier than the youthful crew.

After a calm night we motored out at 8am to round Punta Quiexa over a grey lumpy sea. Then turned west and northwest, motor-sailing in terrible visibility and light rain, with low cloud obscuring Cabo Finisterre. We moored to the outer pontoon at Fisterra by midday. The crew were soaked on their walk to Finisterre lighthouse.

It rained all night and was fcst to continue all day with zero vis. I called a halt and we stayed put. But only because I knew there were two more days of SW wind forecast. Several other yachts joined us, but I spotted no OCC flags for the Galician Rally. An Italian meal at As Balea resto warmed us up.

At 8.30am it was still damp but I could see the end of the breakwater now. We set off and rounded Cabo Finisterre by 9.50am to commence motoring north again. I tried the tiller autopilot but the ram end fitting broke off. It was plastic, sometimes words fail me!! But the young crew will steer all day. We continued past Camarinas, which I had last sailed AB into in 1977! And reached Laxe by 3pm, the still southerly wind was only 8kts, but I was grateful for the weather window, despite wearing oilskins in July. Demmy and Elisa headed ashore to visit the “glass” beach and another two yachts joined us at anchor as I heated more M&S curry.

We awoke to more rain, but with enough wind now to unfurl the Genoa and run down to Islas Sisargas. Accompanied three times by many dolphins, but no Orcas thankfully! The light westerly gradually brought some blue sky. And we unpeeled our waterproofs as we approached the Torre Hercules. We sailed straight past Corunna and continued to anchor off Espineiro beach in Mera bay. A very pleasant spot, altho with an indifferent beach bar, where AB spent several days, while Elisa and Demmy visited Corunna. I amused myself, trying and failing to resuscitate the wheel pilot. I now had two non functioning self steering systems! It was the Sat 13th July!

Sunday we awoke to a grey morning and a SE wind blowing into the bay. And news of the Trump rally shooting! The increasingly uncomfortable anchorage led us to raise anchor and sail round into Ria Ares, then continuing east to anchor off Pontedeume river entrance, a shallow sheltered spot with good holding from where we could just see the Roman bridge. In fact you can visit it by dinghy, as a returning couple from an American yacht confirmed. In the evening we moved to a buoy off Redes and the crew watched the Euros final ashore, altho the rain returned and a SW wind made for a sloppy anchorage. So the following arvo we motored round to anchor off Ares, north of the marina. A more sheltered spot and easy to row ashore for the supermarket and seafront restos. Altho the keen swimmers want boats well off the great beach.

Tuesday 16th July I claimed AB’s prebooked berth down at Sada marina. Oscar the marinero made us most welcome and Rafa at the entrance office dealt with the formalities. Good facilities plus plenty of restos for the evenings. Demmy and Elisa hiked back to Mera beach for a couple of nights, while I started stripping down AB and adding double warps plus snubbers for any surge. Sada is a great wintering spot, surprisingly affordable, esp for a multi.

Rather a short cruise this year. I was essentially completing the delivery north from the Algarve which had been curtailed last year. Originally I’d had an open mind as to whether we’d also cross Biscay. But two defunct autopilots encouraged another year of refitting in Galicia. No hardship I can assure you!